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U.S. Combat Veteran (3ID)
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Discussion Starter #1
So I've been debating what area I wanted to improve next and for a while I was pretty set on sways/endlinks.. decided instead to pickup a Kicker BassStation Powered Sub and some deadening material to give the WRX some nice sounds for when I'm back and forth from work. Ran me under $500 for the whole setup. I started the front doors today and just with those two done the difference is very nice!

Wanted something easily removed if needed and this fit all the needs. Hope it will fit the way I want it to against the back seats.. haven't measured yet but if it doesn't I plan on facing them in a different way. I'll have some pics up probably later or tomorrow.
 

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Cool project, i'd be interested in some pics later! I have some questions if dont mind.

As far as sound deadening goes, are you going with dynamat? If so, they have tons of versions of dynamat which one did you go with? How much did the sheets cost?

What amp are you pairing with the sub? (or perhaps i missed that in your post, then nvm lol)

What car is it going in? Ive yet to see a single sub in the trunk of a subie, and i was curious of how much room would be taken up. I may be going with custom or pre made box later. Is it a 10 inch sub?

Thanks Stu!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's not Dynamatt.. it's an off brand the guy reccomended.. have to double check the name later but it was roughly $150 or so for the materials.

Sub and Amp are all in one.. makes everything very easy to remove if I decide to track it or just want to remove for cleaning, etc.

Two 12" subs.. here is the link to the subs: BassStation Powered Subs | KICKER Basically just need to run the wires when it comes in and I'm going to fab something up for the knob to adjust the bass somewhere near my turn signal cluster on the side. Going to try and get it center on the back hump of the trunk.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I now have all four doors complete, here is a pic of one of the rears as I was working on it.



Going to try and wrap up tomorrow in preparation for the subs.. should get them this week. More pics later. Biggest pain for me was getting the rear sails off the door.. managed to break of the them but super glue and patients cured that. Sounds loads better with all four doors done compared to what it was. I also padded the baffle's in each door to stop the vibrating.
 

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Could you explain the padding of the baffles? The front speakers in my 2002 wagon vibrate something in the door with certain frequencies. I am wondering if this might be it. Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'll look for a picture to help explain but on the door (for mine, not sure if all the others have it personally) panel once you pull it off look for a small white plastic box.. it is essentially a plastic spacer to keep things sturdy. I basically took some of the dampening material and cut small 1/2" x 4-5" strips and bent the baffle to each side to slip the material under.. basically eliminating the plastic-to-plastic contact..
 

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I think I know what you're talking about, trying to remember from last time I had the door cards out haha. That makes sense though, every time I see someone doing this It always reminds me how annoying that rattle can be.
 

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$500 for dynamat or for everything including the sub?

Yeah,the sails are tough.Unfortunately I broke one too.But I found it easier to remove if you use a trim removal tool.

You should have switched out the speakers while you were at it.Had the doors cards off anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think I know what you're talking about, trying to remember from last time I had the door cards out haha. That makes sense though, every time I see someone doing this It always reminds me how annoying that rattle can be.
Yeah and for as little time as it takes it makes things very worth while.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
$500 for dynamat or for everything including the sub?

Yeah,the sails are tough.Unfortunately I broke one too.But I found it easier to remove if you use a trim removal tool.

You should have switched out the speakers while you were at it.Had the doors cards off anyway.
Yeah just at around $500.. I just wanted a little extra bump back here.. the stock stuff sounds ok for what I plan on having this thing setup for.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just finished up the trunk lid.. just got the rear deck and trunk to do. Debating if I want to do under the seats or not.. may be overkill although I do use my car for work quite a bit.. would make the drives a little more sociable lol.. normally they're quiet and clung to the oh'ish handles..
 

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How do you like the sound of that sub. I have a 12'' solo baric L7 in a kicker box with kicker 1500 watt amp and I love it but im not sure I want to put it in my subie since it takes up so much space. I know my box definitely wont fit so might have to build a custom box i guess. Might end up going with what you got, i like that set up alot
 

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Lando Calrissian
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If you are looking for sound deadening on the cheap, eDead is about as cost effective as you can get. I read a review on nastysock stating it was good quality....about $1 per sqft.

Currently I only have sound deadening in the area around the speakers on all 4 doors, but it helps a lot. In the next year when I get the rest of my audio stuff I will be adding more to the doors, as well as to the floors (at least wheel wells to kill road noise). The stuff I have is called Stinger Expert RoadKill.
 

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If you are looking for sound deadening on the cheap, eDead is about as cost effective as you can get. I read a review on nastysock stating it was good quality....about $1 per sqft.

Currently I only have sound deadening in the area around the speakers on all 4 doors, but it helps a lot. In the next year when I get the rest of my audio stuff I will be adding more to the doors, as well as to the floors (at least wheel wells to kill road noise). The stuff I have is called Stinger Expert RoadKill.
+1 to eDead. I've used them and I would say they par to better than the Dynamat. 45mil model is only $1 per square feet and 85mil model that I believe is twice as thick as Dynamat for only $2 per square feet.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Rear deck, for me, was much more difficult compared to the doors.. but after an hour or two I got my rear deck complete. Just the trunk to go.. waiting for the speakers this week hopefully, then I'll run the wires and get some good quality bump in the ride.
 

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If you are looking for sound deadening on the cheap, eDead is about as cost effective as you can get. I read a review on nastysock stating it was good quality....about $1 per sqft.

Currently I only have sound deadening in the area around the speakers on all 4 doors, but it helps a lot. In the next year when I get the rest of my audio stuff I will be adding more to the doors, as well as to the floors (at least wheel wells to kill road noise). The stuff I have is called Stinger Expert RoadKill.
Has eDead improved over the years? I used their black Mylar based deadening in my 1997 Civic Coupe and it didn't stick worth a flip nor did it deaden well compared to Dynamat and SecondSkin. The last time I skimped on deadening, I regretted it and refuse to make that mistake again.
 

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Has eDead improved over the years? I used their black Mylar based deadening in my 1997 Civic Coupe and it didn't stick worth a flip nor did it deaden well compared to Dynamat and SecondSkin. The last time I skimped on deadening, I regretted it and refuse to make that mistake again.
When was it that you used it? From what I know they now use the same material as in Dynamat. I have used them on relatives cars (~7 years now) and its still doing a great job (I live in the Nevada desert 110+ Fahrenheit summers and <0 Fahrenheit winters). Installation should be done at moderate temperatures. Installation in cold temperatures may require the use of a heat gun.

I'm planning on using it again when I get around to quieting down my car.
 

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Lando Calrissian
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they no longer make Mylar based....they have v2 that rubber Butyl (40-45 mil and 80-85 mil), v3 that is a liquid latex paint on, v4 that is Teklite Closed Cell Neoprene ( 1/4" thick), and v5 that is a liquid Ceramic Microsphere Polymer paint on.
 

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I just added deadening material to the floor and door panels of my WRX hatch. I went from 70db at a 65 mph cruise to 68 db. That's a pretty good difference (log scale). I used Frost King Duct Wrap insulation. About $18 for a 15' roll. Its not gonna help with sound dampening, but if used alongside that eDead, they could give really good results. On its own, it does help cut down on road noise without question.

The main reason I did it was to cut down on the tranny whine when engine breaking in 1st and 2nd gears. In traffic, it gets annoying...fast. Turns out there is NO insulation after the shifter. Not pretty..

Check out the install in my pics (link in signature).

EDIT: I plan to do the doors and hatch next. Will probably throw in some eDead on the doors cause it seems like a good deal.
 
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