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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, just wondering if any of you have any experience or knowledge regarding lightweight flywheels.

Was looking at both the ACT Streetlite flywheel and the Exedy Lightweight flywheel on rallysportdirect, the ACT weighing in at 14.4 and the Exedy at 12.2.

Just wondering if you guys could perhaps tell me which would be the better choice for a DD, I also would like to avoid a CEL if possible, but I have the accessport on it's way so I should be able to clear the CEL regardless. I was also planning on gettin the ACT heavy duty street stage 2 clutch, so would either one be a better match than the other? And if I plan on gettin a lighter crank pulley, would either one be any better?

Thanks for your patience, appreciate all feedback!
 

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Either are going to be less comfortable to drive, the lighter the flywheel, the less comfortable. The Exedy will more likely throw a CEL because of the lighter weight. The AP can clear the code but not prevent it from coming back. Not that it's my business, but why do you want a heavier Duty clutch and a lighter flywheel? Your money would be better spent elsewhere and your stock setup can handle quite a bit of power.
 

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Until you have to upgrade your clutch (20G+), a LWFW should not be a concern of yours. You're not even StageII; if your clutch is slipping, you need to alter your driving habits.
 

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LWFW and a stage two clutch is not needed on your car unless you just want to make your car harder to drive for no reason. The LWFW will hurt spool time and if you do put the LWFW on you do not want to put a light weight pulley on also. And are you doing this yourself because if not you will be spending alot of bank for no gains at all?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No my clutch is not slipping at all, I was just thinking that it might be better to get the clutch and LWFW, I will def be stage 2 within the next few months before I look at actually buying the two aforementioned items. I just felt like it might be better to get those two items before I go big on power so that when I do the clutch is already there to handle it, just doing some research now basically.

And forgive my ignorance, but how would the LWFW hurt spool time? Shouldn't it allow that additional rotational energy, which would have used to spin the heavier flywheel, to help the accelerate instead? Maybe I'm misunderstanding, which is quite possible haha

Basically the LWFW is like ~$300, Cobbs Sf intake is ~300 as well, was just trying to find out if the LWFW would be worth it more so than some other mod at roughly the same price

And EJ, sorry to sound dumb but what do you mean when you refer to "20G+"?

Thanks guys
 

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Æternum
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Go with a DP + Tune, forget you even considered the LWFW. You absolutely do not require an upgraded clutch at this moment. You would be throwing money down the drain.

Upgrade until your clutch starts slipping, only then replace the clutch.

Basically the LWFW is like ~$300, Cobbs Sf intake is ~300 as well, was just trying to find out if the LWFW would be worth it more so than some other mod at roughly the same prices
Why would you spend $600 on a modification that will not help any at your current power level? You could spend that $600 on a Tactrix cable and a pro-tune! Besides, the heavy duty clutch might be exactly what you need to shatter your transmission.

And EJ, sorry to sound dumb but what do you mean when you refer to "20G+"?
The compressor side of a Mitsubishi turbocharger.
 

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Not Asian
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Don't replace the clutch until you have worn out the stocker. I had a stock clutch well into Stage 2 on my old STi and I will expect the same thing with my '11 WRX. Don't replace the flywheel until you're well passed DP and tune. At this point a LWFW will probably do nothing but irritate you.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Alright, thanks for the advice guys, just saw the LWFW on rallysportdirect and it seemed like a decent mod for the price, however I know now i certainly don't need that yet haha

PS I made another post regarding a downpipe under engine mods thread, feel free to offer any advice there as well! Thanks guys for your patience and advice
 

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Not Asian
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Just because a mod is a reasonable price doesn't mean it's the next best mod for the car. Glad you asked though. You really would have hated the LWFW on a daily driver.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well that's just it, saw the decent price and I know that it is a great mod, but i didnt know if that would be a good direction to take where I'm just starting off. This is the first time I've ever modded a car, and don't have a lot of experience when it comes to modifying or what steps should be taken first as such, really appreciate the advice you guys have given me though and for having patience with me as a first time modder :) haha
 

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Well that's just it, saw the decent price and I know that it is a great mod
It isn't a great mod. It's a pretty bad one. It's only good if you've got a highly modified car.
 

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Well that's just it, saw the decent price and I know that it is a great mod, but i didnt know if that would be a good direction to take where I'm just starting off. This is the first time I've ever modded a car, and don't have a lot of experience when it comes to modifying or what steps should be taken first as such, really appreciate the advice you guys have given me though and for having patience with me as a first time modder :) haha
You have come to the right forum for patience with new Subaru owners or new to modding in general. Other sites tend not to be too friendly and always assume that you must read every stickied thread first.

That being said, rather than asking if this mod is the right choice or that mod is the right choice, decide what you want out of the car. Lots of power? Nice conservative DD? It's up to you, but there is a correct path or two to follow in order to get there. Cost can't always come into play because some of the right mods on the proper path are going to be more expensive than others.

Lots of people will tell that suspension should be your first upgrades. Other people will say a downpipe and a tune. The truth is, they're both right because that's the direction they wanted to go with their cars. There's reasonable gains to be had in both of those situations. I would recommend researching those first.

I'd honestly wait until your car is through with warranty until at least putting engine parts on it. A Cobb AP stage 1 tune is reasonable IMO, but the farther you go, the less reliable your car may (and I emphasize "may") become. What's that mean to you if your motor goes boom while under warranty?

The good thing is, at least you're asking. A lot of times I'll read a thread that says "I put X on my car and now it's not working right. What do I do?" The common response will always be "Take it off." :)
 

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LWFW and a stage two clutch is not needed on your car unless you just want to make your car harder to drive for no reason. The LWFW will hurt spool time and if you do put the LWFW on you do not want to put a light weight pulley on also. And are you doing this yourself because if not you will be spending alot of bank for no gains at all?
I see everyone is saying that it would make the car harder to drive. Is that beacuse the engine RPM would drop drastically between shifts? How would it the turbo spool?
 

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I'm not sure how many people commenting on here have a lightweight flywheel.... But I do. I have the ACT lightweight flywheel, and the ACT XTSS clutch/pressure plate. It is definitely possible to daily drive (I do...) but expect a very steep learning curve. It's not worth it on an unmodified or lightly modified car.

There was a slight difference in revs.. but not a lot. It is easier to rev-match though. I didn't see any change in spool, but technically there can be. It's related to a decrease in engine load = a decrease in exhaust gas accumulation.

The negatives... increased clutch shutter (especially in the cold), more difficult launches at the drag strip, jerkiness (until you get used to driving it correctly).

Positives? None on a daily driven car that isn't raced.
 
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