Sounds more sensible...there's always a lot of people who will 'get off'Hey thanks for the advice just saw this now.
Yeah I am planning on getting KW suspension now.
Besides that I’ll probably throw on some sway bars and bushings.
Do the exhaust, up pipe and down pipe. Along with a air intake and tune.
Besides that I’m not doing much more, gauges, replacing OEM stuff so it’s new, etc.
I was just throwing around the idea of a six speed swap since I am in school and working at a mechanic shop currently and could possibly do it once I graduate here next year.
On another note as you said upgrade brakes. I do plan on doing that as well, just trying to figure out what route I should go.
I was either going to do wave spec rotors, hawk pads and the OEM 2 pot calipers. Otherwise the other option is doing the STI brembo swap.
fantasising about someone else's for their car...like reading glossy car
fantasy magazines, which pander to ADHD.
Suggestion. Get Bilstein sports shocks forget coil-overs unless racing
the car. Can you really see yourself changing heights for changing road
conditions. Increased sway bar size isn't 'throw on', they should b part of
a suspension plan...however wit very good tyres and shocks you shouldn't
need thicker sway bars. If you want to...just get STI bars or equivalent. I'd
just wait and see.
It's not uncommon to change the down-pipe however the 'tune' will
be more than the pipe. Keep an eye on the crossover, they do rot.
Bembo brakes are very effective...increasing the chances of your
receiving a rear-ender. As well you will need STI wheels for clearance
and anything associated with the calipers and brakes.. I thought about
that myself and decided to forget it...Save towards an STI and keep
yours as standard as you can for resale. By the way some STI prices
are in pixie-land...There an STI coupe for sale for a dollar under $80,000
right now...oh...get serious! and others even higher asking. They are not
'racing off the lot' Nice cars but do not have a patch on the R5 turbo...
They sit and sit...and sit.
There seems to be an obsession with 'tuning' as though god is blessing the
car and empowering it...Tuning is expensive and unfortunately encourages
more parts expenditure, and can stuff your car.(so can bolting things on and
not tuning it...so its a trap.) Someone reads about 'wheel hp' and starts to
fantasiseand get obsessed...'must have'.
There's a sickness in all this ego salving. I'd look at 'tuning' as 'only when
essential'.I have no idea about the USA pricing, prices here however are dosed
with something like $800-1000 for code access 'one-of' before they kick-off.
Subaru and Fuji did a pretty good job of the WRX and STI and the WRX is
as fast a road car as necessary and sane.
For me if you must have Subaru the STI is a car to own, cherish and
store not wear out...but use occasionally, maintain You'll rarely use
its potential and when you do there may be "consequences". It's very
'ego' to own the best or create 'the best' ...I could have bought four
houses at Mosman with the money I spent on my cars, until I wised-up
...and altogether if sold then would not have bought half a house.
Today they'd bring over $1M but what would they really be worth?
in my view $100,000 the lot. Look at how long it takes to sell most cars
especially 'vintage' at big prices.
My suggestion here is is don't over-invest in fantasy...enjoy your WRX
as it is and if you want to...buy a cheaper well maintained STI locally
or from Japan if you think you can register it in your country and just
lovingly maintain it in your garage or workshop. You'll be kinder to
your WRX then also. You will have nothing to 'prove'...leave that to
the yo-yo's. One unfortunate aspect is that for some reading about
their model is enough..for others it's like a drug addiction.
The immaculate Renault 5 mid-engine turbo I could have bought for
40,000 francs 20 years ago would today bring $140,000. My standard
R5 turbo...bought for $1000 would today bring at least $40,000. Subaru
will never get there...it has lost it charisma excepting for the early WRX
and STI ...when it was 'Raw-er'. The point?..My point is...think about buying
a house and land say rather than sinking money into a depreciating asset
and don't accelerate its depreciation every time you shell-out for something
else that takes your fancy for your car or gets your pulse throbbing when
you hear about it. I may have written elsewhere that I recently sent my car
to Sydney for work. I use the best suspension and steering place in the
country and have faithfully for 58 years. (Look up AJ Heasman steering
and shock absorbers on internet and have a look through the various
client car features).
Normally it would be straight to suspension perfection and Bilsteins or
Bilstein-Eibach. I decided this time to experiment. I bought (s/h) good STI
bug-eye suspension off an imported wreck...an original Fuji strut brace
and an STI radiator and fans. I bought new Michelin Pilot tyres
after checking the manufacture date to be less than 2 months old...tyres
have 'expiry-dates'. The rebuilt replacement engine had a new timing belt
and water pump but the tight-wad from whom I bought the car didn't
change the idlers of change the seals.
Its calipers were already completely rebuilt. Whilst at the suspension
workshop I had all the timing gear replaced (by a specialist there who'd
served his time on Subarus) with Subaru original parts. Castor arm is STI.
Camber adjustment will be built in...not use a Camber plate. The specialist
there said they are unreliable and a different modification is better.
Cost so far without final suspension tuning was $500 to truck it down,
about $1500 in parts, about $1200 in all up labour (calipers not
included as done earlier). I will repaint the roof as an earlier owner
painted it black and the paint cracked....If I don't do that myself it
will cost I suppose $400. Wheel alignment and test driving in final
suspension tuning might be $80.00. It will be a fine road car with
a new lease of life after paying out about $3700.00...let's call it
I may keep it or I may sell it but I am unlikely to lose money on it. If
I did all I have and added performance gear, I'd rarely be able to use
the power and torque increase and I'd lose money at resale. I want
an asset, not a liability.
Final thing...if you install gauges (why??) don't set into the visible dash
with screws. Additional gauges these days make the car look like an
amateur fantasist has 'had a go' at imagining himself in racing trim...
It will depreciate your car...Different say in my Mitsubishi L300 van where
there is a time-affected temperature gauge fault which can (and did) arise
from a fault on the circuit board. I spent plenty of humming and hahing on
where to place it and found 'best' position using a bracket which allowed
me to hide the screw holes inside the lower dash. I spent I suppose $50
plus time on gauge and sender with the alternative being find a s/h dash
and hoping it lasts. These days I'd more likely sit gauges neatly under
bonnet to just check whilst servicing. That wouldn't 'characterise' me.Voila.