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I hope this is the right place to put this. I am 50 miles away from my 1k mile mark and off the break in period. Should I get my oil changed before I start pushing my car and going over 4k rpm or does it really matter and I can wait until its time to change per manufacturing? So stoked about being able to bring out the beast.
 

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I hope this is the right place to put this. I am 50 miles away from my 1k mile mark and off the break in period. Should I get my oil changed before I start pushing my car and going over 4k rpm or does it really matter and I can wait until its time to change per manufacturing? So stoked about being able to bring out the beast.
The FA Motor has been out a full 3 years now and the question has been asked 1 million times.

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Some folks say wait . . . others say to do it at 1,000 miles.

I think the majority come down on being conservative/playing it safe and doing it at 1,000 miles.
 

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I'm one of those guys, change it at or just over a thousand miles to whatever you're going to continuously run. I use Motul 8100 x-clean 5W-30


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks cwo1984 and firefighterjake! Appreciate the advice and for not being pricks!
 

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I personally changed mine at 1200 miles. Im a clean out the break in oil person.

I was dipping my rims and painting my calipers so I did the change same day, may car was already on a lift. I even have a white filter now to match my car! LOL (just worked out that way with the white filter)
 

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Interesting thread. I am around 100 miles away from 1000.

So would it be "ok" to take my car to Valvoline and getting their full synthetic?
 

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Interesting thread. I am around 100 miles away from 1000.

So would it be "ok" to take my car to Valvoline and getting their full synthetic?
I'm not 100% sure. As long as you do say an oil change every 3500-3700 miles using that oil I think you'd be ok. On another forum they did a UOA from Blackstone and Valvoline oil sheared down to a 20 weight. If you're looking for an easy place to get oil done without doing it yourself I'd opt for Pennzoil Platinum Ultra 5W30 or a 'more' synthetic variant like Motul or Eneos. I have to find my Blackstone UOA for Motul 8100 xclean. I know guys I'm here like Amsoil or Redline as well.

Able to DIY?


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So Valvoline is crap oil? Wonder if thats why my Volvo was in the shop all the time after 4 years...
 

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Anyone know good chain oil change places that have better then Valvoline oil.. I can do the change myself but I don't really have the time...
 

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Anyone know good chain oil change places that have better then Valvoline oil.. I can do the change myself but I don't really have the time...
Where are you located?

Valvoline just doesn't work well in our engines whether it be FA or EJ. Just from what I've read on NASIOC when I was in the same boat. I ran Rotella in my LGT but obv not Subaru's spec.



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Valvoline VR1 is actually really good for abusive conditions (like racing). Personally, I use Castrol Edge in two of our vehicles, and Motul v300 in my WRX (though it's not currently running).
 

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Valvoline VR1 is actually really good for abusive conditions (like racing). Personally, I use Castrol Edge in two of our vehicles, and Motul v300 in my WRX (though it's not currently running).
^agreed. Seems the FA motors like to drink Synpower, and Mobile 1. In NJ there is an AZP shop that can do Motul, and Eneos, or for $20 bucks bring them the oil and filter and they'll do it for you


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Well.. I think I will go pick up Synpower and do it myself, I have the ramps and some tools from my mustang days... the hell with going to Valvoline and trusting people there. I don't need this to end up like my Volvo sooner....
 

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Well.. I think I will go pick up Synpower and do it myself, I have the ramps and some tools from my mustang days... the hell with going to Valvoline and trusting people there. I don't need this to end up like my Volvo sooner....
If you have the ramps and tools (i.e. oil filter wrench and socket for the oil plug) this really should be a 15-30 minute job at tops. Subaru has made changing the oil ridiculously easy with the top mounted oil filter and easy-to-access oil pan drain plug. Sometimes it seems as though I spend more time finding the right socket than the time spent doing the oil change.
 

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Well.. I think I will go pick up Synpower and do it myself, I have the ramps and some tools from my mustang days... the hell with going to Valvoline and trusting people there. I don't need this to end up like my Volvo sooner....

Why Synpower? If it's known to shear and disappear quickly I would pick something else.
 

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Why Synpower? If it's known to shear and disappear quickly I would pick something else.
That's what I meant. The FA and EJ like to drink as in burn through Mobil 1 and Synpower pretty quickly so definitely stay away from those because of the shearing problems. I was recommending Pennzoil Platinum Ultra 5W30 if you were to use something readily available. Otherwise Redline, Amsoil, Motul, etc are much better options.


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ok.. I can get penzoil..
 

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Subarus own OEM oil also will fit the bill well. Don't count it out. If you are in warranty i would 100% use factory oil.

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I would recommend the Subaru Synthetic 5W30 but it's got a so-so shear rating and the OP probably isn't going to change out their oil every 3750 miles. Also it sits more down on the low end of the 30 rating, so after say the 5000m OCI, Subaru Synthetic pours out like black gasoline.

If he was in say a non turbo car then I'd say Subaru and be done with it.

Recommended PUP because it also combats the deposits in the intake ports issue that lovely direct injection brings along for us.

I wish Subaru made VA's motor like the BRZ with port and direct injection.


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