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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So last week I got my clutch changed from the stock one to an ACT Street Performance clutch (Part: SB5-HDSS) and a StreetLite flywheel (Part: 600480) and after they put it all in my car, when idling, will sputter and seem like its about to die. Doing some research I came up with a thread that is almost exactly the same:

https://www.reddit.com/r/subaru/comments/4vf7bk/changed_my_clutch_and_engine_is_idling_rough_help/

The difference from mine is that I have a 2006 WRX and I also am getting misfires on all 4 cylinders or multiple cylinders occasionally. The other problems I have with my car are: leaking cam seals (about to get fixed with new timing belt), I get a CEL code for high voltage fuel system readings (I put in a new fuel pump and accidentally ripped the wires for the gas gauge when putting it back in) which I usually just clear off and it doesn't come back for weeks, and some other small oil leaks. None of these seem like they could be the culprit for my terrible idle because I have had these issues and the bad idle just started.

Today I cleaned the MAF because I read that that might cause the terrible idle, no avail. BUT I did notice that somehow the screws that screw in the MAF are not really going in, as if the slots where the screws go into is stripped. The MAF can be pushed down all the way and appears to be tight but I fear there might be air escaping there...

The help on the reddit thread suggested that it is because of the flywheel being lighter than the stock. The flywheel I ordered is 15 lbs and from what I can see on that thread the stock is 18-21 lbs. If this is an issue then what is the fix?

I am bringing the car back to the shop on monday to get the cam seals fixed and can have them fix their mistake if they did something wrong. Again, this ONLY happens at idle. I haven't tried even engaging the boost though in fear of the leaky cams and not wanting to ruin the fresh clutch (<100 miles on it). On cruise control it runs good still.

One more random question, I got my timing belt and all pulleys/water pump replaced in February, about 14k miles ago. If my cam seals are leaking and messing up the timing belt there is a risk it will snap and bye-bye engine. Do you guys think this is a high risk with a small leak that has started recently (within 2 months to my knowledge) and on that new timing belt? I deliver pizza in this car and am supposed to deliver for 20 hours this weekend and I told them I can't drive out of fear for losing my engine. But the timing belt seems new enough that it could last the weekend. I do not know anything about the durability of these belts so it's based off pure intuition. I would rather play it on the safe side but I really do need the money.


TL:DR
My engine idles rough all the time, my guesses are either:
1: Oil has lubed up the timing belt from the cam seal leaks to the point where it is throwing off timing
2: New clutch and lightweight flywheel are the culprit
3: MAF Sensor is leaking air out of it, causing bad readings
4: (Bonus guess) I recently installed a boost gauge and maybe there is a leak somewhere (Shop said they couldn't find any leaks)

I tried to get as much information about this as I could before asking you guys, but I don't know any Subaru experts and have just started learning all this this year.


Miles: 188000
Model: 2006 WRX Sedan
Mods: 255lph walbro fuel pump

4.5" catless turboback exhaust

greddy BOV with plug to change it to vent to atmosphere (tuned for it)

stage 2 tune

Secondary airpump deletes
 

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So last week I got my clutch changed from the stock one to an ACT Street Performance clutch (Part: SB5-HDSS) and a StreetLite flywheel (Part: 600480) and after they put it all in my car, when idling, will sputter and seem like its about to die. Doing some research I came up with a thread that is almost exactly the same:

https://www.reddit.com/r/subaru/comments/4vf7bk/changed_my_clutch_and_engine_is_idling_rough_help/

The difference from mine is that I have a 2006 WRX and I also am getting misfires on all 4 cylinders or multiple cylinders occasionally. The other problems I have with my car are: leaking cam seals (about to get fixed with new timing belt), I get a CEL code for high voltage fuel system readings (I put in a new fuel pump and accidentally ripped the wires for the gas gauge when putting it back in) which I usually just clear off and it doesn't come back for weeks, and some other small oil leaks. None of these seem like they could be the culprit for my terrible idle because I have had these issues and the bad idle just started.

Today I cleaned the MAF because I read that that might cause the terrible idle, no avail. BUT I did notice that somehow the screws that screw in the MAF are not really going in, as if the slots where the screws go into is stripped. The MAF can be pushed down all the way and appears to be tight but I fear there might be air escaping there...

The help on the reddit thread suggested that it is because of the flywheel being lighter than the stock. The flywheel I ordered is 15 lbs and from what I can see on that thread the stock is 18-21 lbs. If this is an issue then what is the fix?

I am bringing the car back to the shop on monday to get the cam seals fixed and can have them fix their mistake if they did something wrong. Again, this ONLY happens at idle. I haven't tried even engaging the boost though in fear of the leaky cams and not wanting to ruin the fresh clutch (<100 miles on it). On cruise control it runs good still.

One more random question, I got my timing belt and all pulleys/water pump replaced in February, about 14k miles ago. If my cam seals are leaking and messing up the timing belt there is a risk it will snap and bye-bye engine. Do you guys think this is a high risk with a small leak that has started recently (within 2 months to my knowledge) and on that new timing belt? I deliver pizza in this car and am supposed to deliver for 20 hours this weekend and I told them I can't drive out of fear for losing my engine. But the timing belt seems new enough that it could last the weekend. I do not know anything about the durability of these belts so it's based off pure intuition. I would rather play it on the safe side but I really do need the money.


TL:DR
My engine idles rough all the time, my guesses are either:
1: Oil has lubed up the timing belt from the cam seal leaks to the point where it is throwing off timing
2: New clutch and lightweight flywheel are the culprit
3: MAF Sensor is leaking air out of it, causing bad readings
4: (Bonus guess) I recently installed a boost gauge and maybe there is a leak somewhere (Shop said they couldn't find any leaks)

I tried to get as much information about this as I could before asking you guys, but I don't know any Subaru experts and have just started learning all this this year.


Miles: 188000
Model: 2006 WRX Sedan
Mods: 255lph walbro fuel pump

4.5" catless turboback exhaust

greddy BOV with plug to change it to vent to atmosphere (tuned for it)

stage 2 tune

Secondary airpump deletes
It's likely number 2 with your light weight flywheel this has been covered in the misfire thread I believe. The solution is to replace it with the factory one.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's likely number 2 with your light weight flywheel this has been covered in the misfire thread I believe. The solution is to replace it with the factory one.
Gah shoot I think you're right about the flywheel. I looked up so much about misfires and MAF problems and cam seals. I just didn't think to look up lightweight flywheel problems and looks like this is a very known problem. But since they're not 'real' misfires its probably okay to drive then? I just gotta deal with the occasional misfire readings and awkard idle?
 

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It's your car. My car would get fixed by putting on the appropriate flywheel and removing the blow off valve. Your car though, you do you.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Haha I would if I didn't spend $300 on this one. I cant spend another $200 to "fix" an issue that's not a huge problem, so I was asking if it is a real problem or just an inconvenience.
 

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Haha I would if I didn't spend $300 on this one. I cant spend another $200 to "fix" an issue that's not a huge problem, so I was asking if it is a real problem or just an inconvenience.
Sounds like a real problem to me. It also sounds like you don't have interest in repairing it. The blow off valve also causes problems that you can't tune for.

So my car, they get repaired. You don't sound like you are interested in repairing yours so no advice will change that.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No, I want to repair it that's why I put this question up... I don't know the risks associated with this problem so I was hoping someone on here would know. I'm definitely not the only person to have a lightweight flywheel on their car so there has to be something I can do to make it work correctly. I'm trying to get knowledge as to what the risks are and why they're happening.

If I wasn't interested in repairing my car I wouldn't have spent the better part of a day trying to get the issue figured out and typing all this up. I want to know if my engine is going to blow or not. This car is my life and my only source of income so if it's going to blow up I need to fix it right away. The stock flywheel I had was completely shot and I can't afford to buy ANOTHER flywheel. Why would Rallysport sell a flywheel fitted for my car if it doesn't work?

You don't sound like you are interested in repairing yours so no advice will change that.
Advice that actually gave me information about my problem and the risks probably would change that, but you aren't telling me anything that suggests it has real consequences or problems associated with it.

What are the BOV associated problems? What is the real problem? I see many people with bad idles and never think it's an issue.
 

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Causes fueling miscalculations when shifting. The ECU has metered the air in the system that the bov is blowing out that air. This means that your ECU will fuel according to air that isn't there causing it to be pig rich. Over time this can foul plugs and cause misfires that can damage the engine.

If you are getting codes now the system is likely not running optimally. I'll let someone else chime in who may have been down this road but I recall seeing threads and some conversation about the misfire with lightened flywheels and the end solution was replacement of the unit.

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