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06/07 suspension specs? coilover upgrade options

970 Views 11 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  wehaveaT-WRX
Looking for suspension specs for 06/07 like spring rates.

or

Suggestions on good affordable coilover upgrade options for an inch or two lower and tighter handling. MY summer car is an s2k so im pretty spoiled.

not planning on making her a track day or autox car.

all the ebay options scare me. all looks like polished chinesium.

or

point me to some recent thread of this discussion.
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KW or Öhlins.

The only ones with a TUV I think.

No TUV, no party.
KW or Öhlins.

The only ones with a TUV I think.

No TUV, no party.
No party at all? A set of KW v1's are about 1500, and the ebay chinesium are about $300.

there's got to be some sort of middleground people are using and happy with.

right?
No party at all? A set of KW v1's are about 1500, and the ebay chinesium are about $300.

there's got to be some sort of middleground people are using and happy with.

right?
No TUV, no party.

Find springs and buy some Konis and a hack saw. Or write a bigger cheque. I'm sticking with stock springs and getting better Kayaba inserts for my bugeye, because I like money and don't like junk.

Paulo Coelho said the only free cheese in life is inside a mouse trap.
If you're not doing motorsports events, you're going to be better off with a strut/spring setup.

If you're deadset on coilovers, Suspension Techniques (ST Suspension) is a child company of KW and makes a set for under $1000.
If you're not doing motorsports events, you're going to be better off with a strut/spring setup.

If you're deadset on coilovers, Suspension Techniques (ST Suspension) is a child company of KW and makes a set for under $1000.
yea a spring strut combo would be fine too. also going to prioritize a roll center kit. Any 'best' options for those?
wehaveaT-WRX said:
yea a spring strut combo would be fine too. also going to prioritize a roll center kit. Any 'best' options for those?
Really depends on what your definition of "affordable" is.

On the cheap:
KYB GR2 / Excel-G struts (slightly better OE replacements)
Swift Sport springs
Whiteline Com-C mount (F) / New OE mount (R)
Camber bolts (R)
Alignment to custom specs

A more performance-oriented setup:
Koni Inserts
RCE Black/Yellow or Swift Spec-R springs
Whiteline Com-C or MSI Camber Plate (F) / Group-N or new OE tophat (R)
Camber bolts (R)
Alignment to custom specs

In addition to those two strut/springs setups, you mentioned a roll-center kit, which is also a great modification.

Whiteline makes two additional suspension components which are great:
KCA359 Anti-Lift Kit (Sport)
KCA313 Roll-Center Adjustment Kit

ALK is one of my favorite handling modifications. I will note, that if you do ever decide to do Auto-X events, you will be completely out-classed and have NO chance of actually competing. When I do Auto-X events, I don't even look at what the other drivers did on their runs, and only compare my progress throughout the day.

Since the struts/springs, ALK, and RCA kits all require an alignment when done individually, installing them at the same time would reduce your expenses. Even my "on the cheap" setup above is pretty good for a street vehicle, but paired with the ALK/RCA, I think you would be plenty pleased with it. It may not handle quite like the S2000, but that doesn't accelerate like your WRX, either ;)
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Following up on my comment before, other things to consider are replacing drivetrain / suspension mounts and bushings. They were soft rubber from the factory, and 12 years or so of wear/tear can have them feeling pretty crappy by now. Now is the chance you can bring your car back to feeling "like new" or even better. Upgraded bushings will create additional NVH, but that's a trade-off I make with a smile on my face every single time. On a street vehicle, I would advise against any solid mounts.

Steering Rack Bushings (Whiteline)
Fender Cowl Braces (link)

This would be my next step in making the car feel better. You'll be in for about $150 for the two of them.

Drivetrain upgrades don't require realignment, are generally not all that expensive, and aren't usually that difficult to install. What are great about these upgrades is that whether you're just driving normally or pushing your car, you can feel the difference. They're some of the best bang/buck modifications you can do on your car. As long as you're familiar with particular items, you can piece them together so you don't have to repeat work when installing (e.g., when you buy the transmission mount, also buy a set of crossmember bushings, since you have to remove the crossmember anyway).

Suspension bushings sometimes require realignment, but are other things to look into. If you go with the ALK I recommended before, you'll pretty much be limited to trailing arm and lateral link (TiC sells these as a bundle). These would require a realignment, so buy together, install together, align together.

If you're still not that happy once you've done all that, look into swaybars / endlinks.

A lot of people would tell you to get the sways/endlinks before a bunch of the bushings. While mounts/bushings aren't as "sexy" to talk about as your shiny sways/endlinks, a car of this age will likely have a bunch of them that need replacement anyway, and you can upgrade while you're there, that's why I'm recommending the sways after the M&B refresh. When looking for bushings, use the TiC site to see what's available; if they sell a bushing under their brand, buy it instead of Group-N or Whiteline. When looking at the shifter, buy their Kartboy/TiC kit that includes the lever and all four shifter bushing sets. When looking at the pitch stop mount, Group-N sucks; it's $35-45 for a reason. I have the forged Beatrush unit, and love it; I just wish that work of art wasn't completely covered up by a TMIC.
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Four things worth noting in my view:

1. ALKs are probably best implemented with increased spring and damping rates. I gather this because what an ALK is essentially doing is transferring the function of attitude control from the chassis to the suspension itself.

2. Bushings are an absolute pain, not just because of the labour involved in replacing each and every little deteriorated piece of rubber buried behind 20 other components, but also because the costs can nickel-and-dime you to death.

3. There is no third thing.

4. It's always a question of how much is good enough. You can't make a stallion out of a pig -- but you can make a very fast pig. It'll cost time and money though.
Awesome, AWESOME feedback guys. thanks! will have to go through it all and update my goal / budget.
SD_GR said:
1. ALKs are probably best implemented with increased spring and damping rates. I gather this because what an ALK is essentially doing is transferring the function of attitude control from the chassis to the suspension itself.
I would buy the KYB/Swift/ALK/RCA setup over Koni/RCE (without ALK/RCA). If you can afford everything, even better.

SD_GR said:
2. Bushings are an absolute pain, not just because of the labour involved in replacing each and every little deteriorated piece of rubber buried behind 20 other components, but also because the costs can nickel-and-dime you to death.
I haven't experienced this. When not provided, a little grease has been bought at the parts store, but there hasn't been any real incremental costs outside of the parts themselves (and possibly a tool or two to install); just that there are a ton of them to replace. Again, what I like about bushings is that you don't really need to save a ton of money up to afford them, and you can stockpile until you get to where you can install. Say you can set aside $50/mo for stuff. The shifter bushing bundle from TiC is like $90-100, so in two months, you're good. A Group-N transmission mount is like $80, TiC crossmember bushings are $35. Another three months, you have all six mount/bushing parts you can install. When you pull the crossmember to install the shifter bushings, you also install the tranny mount and the crossmember bushings. Completely transform the way the car feels with each gear change. Plus, if you didn't have to dip into your savings fund during those five months, you have $35 that can buy pizza/beer for you and the buddy you invite over to help with the install, as well as modest celebratory cigars that you can each enjoy when you're done.

SD_GR said:
4. It's always a question of how much is good enough. You can't make a stallion out of a pig -- but you can make a very fast pig. It'll cost time and money though.
Yes. Modifying the car does NOT increase it's value, generally. Money spent will likely not have any kind of ROI when you go to sell it. You'll need to get your money's worth out of your future enjoyment of the car, for however long you plan to own it.
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Finally pulled the trigger on a setup.

Went with KYB excel Gs with whiteline springs, Com 'C's and ALK and RCA.

Now what should i be looking at for a alignment specs?
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