Project Inspector Gadget

Jan 04, 2020
Figured out what the problem was and why it was traded so easily. Blown Turbo. Relatively easy fix considering what could have been the problem. I could just replace the turbo and be done with it, but with 186k miles on the odometer, why chance it. Out with the engine. Over the past 3 months, I have been slowly adding parts to the build docket. Picked up some TGV deletes and fuel rails from IAG. Why not? GFB bypass valve, sure. Perrin Inlet, pulley set, shroud, and hose set? Throw them in too WTF? At this point, RSDirect gets just about my entire paycheck. Frack it all. I'm here for a good time, not a long time, right?

So what is next? eBay can be a minefield for junk car parts. Last week though, I found a diamond. Invidia R400 Gemini Quad tip titanium cat-back exhaust. Bid and won. 299 bucks and not looking back. Brand fracking new. Looking around the interwebs and it seems that it should fit. What's the difference between an STI 2010 and a WRX? If it doesn't fit, force it, right. Here goes nothing.

Keeping the hope alive that maybe by this time next year this car will be moving under its own power. "How do you eat an elephant," they ask "why, one bite at a time of course."

Here are some pictures.

Jan. 7th:
Tore into the EJ. Lots of mileage on this block. The pick up seems to have held up ok. Let's take a look inside and see what we find.





How does an EJ eat a turbo? One-piece at a time of course. Here is what happens when you oil-starve a turbo. All of this awesomeness flows into your oil system, chews the filter, slides into the oil galleys, hides in the piston rings, and wreaks havoc on any shiny surfaces that should remain shiny.



Oh lookie here, burnt pistons how fun!



Guess where these girls are off too. Not messing around here. FIlings in the oil means bad heads. Time for a rebuild. Off to the machine shop.

Updated Build sheet for a blown Turbo from oil starvation. Now granted, some of these items are optional. I would recommend to anyone attempting a build to be prepared to spend some money. A properly assembled build requires supporting modifications and you will find that the little things add up. My Goal is a 350-375 HP build on a stage 1 stock block. As I got into the build I realized that a few hundred more can get a stage 2 IAG. That level of thinking can be a downhill slope if care isn't taken. A few hundred here a few hundred there can turn a 5K budget into t 10K budget overnight. One of the biggest costs that hide in the background is the labor. The heads ran 525 each for a rebuild. The shops' bill hours are not included on this list only what I paid for the parts and where I got them. I am a very frugal shopper, but I do not mess with wrench time and I know when I am over my head. Tearing down the engine and all it entailed was easy, but I do not have a full shop and when I reached the point that I knew my skill as an educated backyard mechanic was maxed, I turned to a professional Tuner shop. Look at 100-150 per hour pay for a good tuners wrench time. They buy most of the parts, which keeps the shop in business; remember when shopping on eBay. Do Not screw your tuner, unless you are very lucky and she is your girlfriend, or you won't have an ally when things go wrong. They are worth the money on a big build and most tune shops have a dyno. Keep that in mind. YOU WILL NEED ONE!!

Here is my purchase list for this build. One caveat, some things are not on here. Hoses, clamps, screws, bolts, etc. Small things though do add up. I spent close to 200 on these small things.

UPDATE.

The rex went to the shop broken and bruised. Today, the engine sits ready for the install. At long last and after so much work the rex is getting a brand new heart. We added a Perrin inlet, braided AVCS lines from IAG, Arashi 20G, Tomei Headers, 4 Bar MAP sensor, and a Perrin FMIC. Once the engine is in this weeks, break-in will begin. MOTUL fluids all around. Tranny fluid change, Diff fluid change, and Break-in oil will smooth out all the old wrinkles and keep everything running nice and slick. We are following IAG's complete Engine Break-in procedure to the letter and once all the rings are well seated, the rex will hit the dyno.

UPDATE:

As of 04/14/2020, the Rex is up and running!! I had my tuner do the initial 200 miles to monitor for knock, leaks and any other general problems that can prop up from an extensive build like this. So far, nothing. The engine runs perfectly. I have a light road tune set on the AP to break everything in and I have had no issues. The car is running of full MOTUL fluids and has been through two full oil changes so far. With the tech stuff out of the way, here is my opinion: Damn! The car moves! Running in ZERO boost and maintaining a constant negative manifold pressure and still, the car goes smooth. The R400 required some minor bumper modification to fit, seeing as the Rex was set up for a single exit, as I have a huge quad. I thought the rumble would be really loud, come to find out, well it is. With a full catless set up the in-cabin rumble is noticeable and when the RPM starts to climb the sound evens out to a nice boxer hum. I cannot wait to see how it goes with 20+/- PSI pushing through her. I am aiming for 350 HP and maybe somewhere around 350 TQ. I want to be modest with the tune.

I have her going back in in a few days from now for the 500-mile oil change.

Love that it’s red and it’s a hatchback! Hatchback for life !!👍🏼