HELP!!! GReddy Profec B-spec II Install.
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This is a discussion on HELP!!! GReddy Profec B-spec II Install. within the Tuning: Electronic Engine Management forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; i'm getting a greddy profec b-spec ii today and have some questions on how to install it. if anyone out ...

  1. #1
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    HELP!!! GReddy Profec B-spec II Install.

    i'm getting a greddy profec b-spec ii today and have some questions on how to install it. if anyone out there has one, or any ebc, please take a look at the attached photos to see if i'm headed in the right direction.

    my main concerns are connecting the power harness to the ignition, where to mount the valve unit and where i should tap into the vauum line connected to the bov. i don't have a boost gauge installed, so i can't tap in there. it looks like i might have to take the innercooler off to tap futher down on the vacuum line.

    if anyone has suggestions or photos please let me know.

    thanks
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails greddy ebc install.jpg  

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  3. #2
    Registered User silversti's Avatar
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    Before you even think about hooking up the EBC, get yourself a boost gauge...NOW! Don't try to set the boost pressure off of the EBC.
    04 STI
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    i thought i should probably have one before i did this, but i read on the net that i didn't need one because the controller itself has one built in.

    i see that you have one installed on your scooby, so how off is the ebc from the actual psi?

  5. #4
    Registered User silversti's Avatar
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    It is not off a whole lot, but wouldn't want to rely on it for monitoring my boost levels. The biggest problem is that the Profec B does not display boost psi in real time. In other words, you can only tell what the boost psi is based off of the highest boost recorded or when to warning alerts you that you have gone past your set boost level. In order to monitor what is happening, you will need a boost gauge.

    A boost gauge is cheap insurance compared to a new motor.
    04 STI
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    thanks silversti for all of your help. i was going to wait to get a boost gauge because i wanted to get the 3 pod center gauge holder, but i don't have the cash right now to purchase the egt and oil press. gauges. i'll just get the boost gauge and a wheel column pod for now. do you know if i will have to cut into the column to install a universal pod, or do they make a clip on? i don't want to have a hole in the column when i get the 3 pod center, which won't happen until i upgrade the exhaust and that will be a while from now.

    did you look at the diagram i created to install the ebc? does it look like i'm on the right track? i guess my main concern is tapping into the vacuum line and running it over to where the valve unit is. this seems like a long distance, and could screw up the actual boost readings for the ebc. then once i have my boost gauge, i'm assuming, i'll have to tap into the vacuum line again. it seems like i'm running out of room to tap in twice in that area. and the other thing is where did you mount the valve unit? i've looked around, but all of the areas seem to be by something that produces a lot of heat. the instructions said to keep it in a cooler area and don't run the hoses too long. Where did you mount yours? if you could take some pics i would greatly appreciate it.

    I know these are a lot of questions, but all of my friends have different cars than me, ex: srt-4 and evo. i need to talk to someone who knows what's going on with the impreza, and sense your the only one who responded back, id like to get all the info i could if it's not an hassle for you. i'm really interested in the wrox bov. everything i have read about it is nothing but good. they say it the best bov for a wrx, so what do you think?

    by the way, im jealous you have an sti.

    thanks for your help,
    vman

  7. #6
    Registered User silversti's Avatar
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    As for your installation, I couldn't help. I had a shop install mine. The WorxTuning BOV is great. Good sound and the recirculate feature keeps the idle and driveability same as stock.

    You could also contact your vendor to help you with the EBC install. Good time to check out their customer support.
    04 STI
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  8. #7
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    My Greddy Profec B Spec II displayed boost in real time. I had a boost gauge and they both read the same thing. I wouldn't see the need, but it might be nice in the future. Once you have everything installed here are some directions on tuning that you might want to check out.

    Definitions and things you need to know before you start:

    SET This is how you set the boost pressure. Rather than setting it in psi or kPa, the Greddy unit allows you to adjust it as a percentage value, from 0% (greddy unit essentially turned off) to 100% (greddy unit will set the boost as high as it can). This setup demands a certain amount of trial-and-error to properly configure it since you have to make adjustments, then drive under WOT (Wide Open Throttle) and see what the maximum boost pressure achieved was throughout the entire RPM range. SET SHOULD BE SET TO A CONSERVATIVE VALUE WHEN BEGINNING TO TUNE YOUR GREDDY UNIT. 30% SEEMS TO BE A CONSERVATIVE SETTING BASED ON MY TESTING AND BASED ON OTHER REPORTED NUMBERS FROM EVO OWNERS AND TAKING INTO CONSIDERATION THE LINK BETWEEN SET AND GAIN (see GAIN below).

    GAIN is defined in the manual as the value to adjust the "boost consistency". You don't really need to know exactly what that means. You should set GAIN to 0 when beginning, and you will then test the car under WOT while paying attention to the boost pressure. If the boost goes up and then falls off at higher RPM, you will want to increase the GAIN by a conservative amount (5% should be relatively conservative to begin with, then when you want to fine-tune it, you can go down to intervals of 1%). When you increase the GAIN value, the corresponding boost that you will go up to will be higher even if you leave the SET value alone. GAIN SHOULD BE SET TO 0 WHEN BEGINNING TO TUNE YOUR GREDDY UNIT.

    START BOOST (also known as SET GAIN because that is what is displayed on the unit when adjusting this setting) is the lowest boost that the Greddy unit will begin increasing the boost from under WOT. You want this to be as close to the SET value as possible, since you want to keep as close to your desired boost as possible. However, setting it too close to the SET value will cause the boost to spike. You should set this to a conservative setting when beginning to tune your Greddy unit. Then you can fine-tune it later to get it as close to the SET value as possible without causing the boost to spike. Fortunately, you can set this in psi or kPa, thankfully Greddy didn't decide to let this be adjustable in % like the SET value. START BOOST SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR DESIRED BOOST PRESSURE MINUS 4 PSI (about 28 kPa).

    WARNING is the maximum boost that you do not want to exceed. Fortunately, you can also set this in psi or kPa like the START BOOST value. When the boost exceeds the WARNING level, it will kick in the LIMITER, which decreases the boost a certain amount that you can set. WARNING SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR DESIRED BOOST PRESSURE PLUS 1 PSI (about 7 kPa).

    LIMITER is the boost percentage that the Greddy unit will lower to when the WARNING boost pressure is hit. LIMITER SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR SET VALUE MINUS 4%.

    PEAK is the peak boost value that the unit has seen since the last time it was cleared. To clear it, go to the peak boost display, and hold down the set knob until the unit beeps and "---" is displayed. IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO CLEAR THIS BEFORE YOU BEGIN JUST IN CASE YOUR UNIT HAS A HIGH BOOST ALREADY RECORDED.

    LAST BOOST shows you the last boost that was recorded every time the accelerator is released for 3 seconds. TURN LAST BOOST ON BECAUSE IT IS A GOOD DIAGNOSTIC TOOL WHEN TUNING YOUR UNIT.

    Keep in mind that when displaying in kPa, it does not show it technically in kPa, but rather misleadingly in bars, which Greddy inconveniently tries to justify by sticking x100 kPa next to the display. Therefore, 100 kPa will be displayed as 1.00 x100 kPa. Psi will also unfortunately be displayed in psi x10 so that 19 psi will show as 190, adding to the confusion.

    Another very important thing to keep in mind is that when you first power on your car or the Greddy unit, WARNING will be set to 14.5 psi (100kPa, or 1 bar) until you interact with the Greddy unit by pressing any button. This "feature" is not documented in the manual.

    Also keep in mind that atmospheric conditions affect the operation of your boost controller. When it is hot, you will get different results than when it is cold. One possible way of solving this issue is tuning your Greddy unit under the "Lo" mode for when it is relatively cold, and under the "High" mode for when it is relatively hot. Unfortunately, two modes are hardly enough for somebody that needs to account for very different summer and winter climates, and also for more aggressive settings for when increased performance is desired.

    The maximum boost that you will see is also not consistent throughout the gears, which adds even more to the confusion. Unfortunately, if you've already increased your start boost to the maximum setting that doesn't give you surging, then there seems to be no way to get around this variance in boost pressure from low to high gears. I don't know if this is a limitation of the greddy unit specifically, or if it's something inherent to electronic boost controllers in general. The only two things that you can do to compensate is the following:

    1. Set it to the "safest" of the settings that does not trip your limiter. To do this, tune the unit to your desired boost pressure in fifth gear.

    2. Tune the "Lo" and "Hi" settings corresponding to having the boost maximized during the low gears and during the high gears. This would require you to manually hit the button to switch to the "Hi" setting when you shift to third gear or whatever you started tuning your "Hi" setting at. This is why Greddy makes the wireless remote switch that straps to your steering wheel to switch between "Hi" and "Lo" settings.

    The following steps should be taken in exactly this order, taking into consideration all of the previous information:
    1. Change boost pressure units to psi if so desired (see manual).
    2. Set WARNING to your desired boost pressure plus 1 psi (about 7 kPa) (see above).
    3. Set START BOOST (SET GAIN) to your desired boost pressure minus 4 psi (about 28 kPa)(see above).
    4. Clear PEAK boost value (see above).
    5. Set LAST BOOST to ON (see above).
    6. Set GAIN to 0 (see above).
    7. Set SET to 30% (see above).
    8. Set LIMITER to SET minus 4% (26% if you followed #7).
    9. Test for boost falloff at high rpm. You should probably do this in a wide open area with no other cars nearby and preferably no cops. It is also good to have somebody in the car with you that can watch the gauge while you concentrate on not wrecking your car. If there is no boost falloff, then go to #10. If there is boost falloff, then increase the GAIN by 5% and test again. Keep in mind that when you increase the GAIN value, the corresponding boost that you will go up to will be higher even if you leave the SET value alone. Repeat until the boost pressure does not decrease, or until you feel surging. If you feel surging and the boost pressure still decreases (not sure if this is possible) then decrease to the last level that you did not feel surging at.
    10. Increase SET by 2% and adjust LIMITER accordingly, then test again. Keep increasing by 2% until desired boost level is obtained.
    11. Increase START BOOST (SET GAIN) by 1 increment and test until surging is felt or the WARNING level is hit and the display turns red, then decrease to the previous setting.

    Once you have followed these steps, you will have roughly tuned your unit. To fine-tune it, repeat steps 9 and 10 except this time only increase or decrease by 1 increment.

  9. #8
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    i went ahead and installed it over a week ago. i talked to a couple people about the boost gauge issue and they said the same thing you did. my boost is set a little under 11psi for low and 15psi for high. i still get the occasional boost spike of about 1.5psi, but it doesn't hold. i'm keeping the settings lower until i get the boost gauge to make sure all of my reading are correct.

  10. #9
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    my friend keeps having to re-adjust his for some reason.. as far as the settings, it's easier to understand once u actually get to play with it... its a nice unit, specially for its price.
    Will be moving out of the country, need to get rid of everything in my apt, including my 2 cars! buy them..

    2002 black wrx - helix up/downpipe - cobb stg2, prodrive muffler, zigen 18inch 5nr-01c or whatever they're called.. 18k obo

    1995 240sx w/ s13 blacktop - sr20det - swap done at xatracing - very clean - 9k

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    Registered User hughy's Avatar
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    nice to see people are using the same unit as me, i like it but i do have a feew problems that maybe someone can help me with
    my settings are 42 set
    2-7 gain cold not cold
    7# set gain

    ok, this is like 15.5# for me, the problem i have is if i change from this seting i get a bouncing on my gauge never stable, also another problem at strange time i get a warning earlly at like 13# even if i put the warning @ 20# with no limiter, anyone have any of these issues, please help me fig, this thing out

  12. #11
    Registered User hybrid gti 2's Avatar
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    I have the same unit and am trying to install into regular wrx 2002. if some one can help with placement of things and setting with cats as I have not gotten uppipe or dp. I know i need them. I would apriciate it greatly!

  13. #12
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    this is how i installed mine. as far as the settings go your best bet is to just play around until you get it where you like. i just put a bov on and it screwed up my settings a little, so a assuming it's best to come up with your own settings then going off someone else's. here is a link on how to get started Settings. this is what i used at first. if you have any other questions let me know.
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    #4
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