Cobb Accessport V3
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This is a discussion on Cobb Accessport V3 within the Tuning: Electronic Engine Management forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Hello everyone and thanks for taking a moment to check this post out! I'm just double-checking two things since I've ...

  1. #1
    Registered User Germz to Japz's Avatar
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    Cobb Accessport V3

    Hello everyone and thanks for taking a moment to check this post out!

    I'm just double-checking two things since I've had the car for a little while now and want some more power...

    The new Cobb Accessport V3 for the 2014 wrx is completely fine to purchase and install yourself without doing anything else right? I don't NEED an air intake or anything else done to the car right? All we have on the limited sedan is the SPT-Catback Exhaust so that's completely fine correct?

    I'm looking at the Cobb Accessport V3 and the "stage 1" package and not sure which to go for... obviously one is cheaper than the other but would it be cost effective to just buy the whole package?

    Thanks everyone!

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    Registered User nsibanez's Avatar
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    Stage 1 refers to both a reflash or an intake (aem or cobb) and stage two is for the downpipe and tune or downpipe and intake plus tune.
    A cat back exhaust (or spt as well) are fine without tuning.
    All that's necessary is the access port IF you want to go that route. It's more expensive than open-source but it's easy and convenient. A lot of tuners will put a "pro-tune" on the access port as well for if you need custom tuning


    Go to Cobbs website and read around for your model and year. They'll have absolutely everything needed to know including data logging
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    Nsibanez you are legit one of the most helpful people I have ever met in my life.

    Yea I'm looking under " COBB Tuning - Subaru WRX Sedan 2014 " and going to select " COBB Tuning - Subaru Accessport V3 (003) " to purchase then. Probably get it in red or something.

    So all I do is just hook it up to my car, flash it, and I'm good to go? From what I'm reading it's a pretty good improvement over just a stock wrx and that seems fine for now. What exactly is a "pro-tune" and is it really needed or can I just get the CAPV3 and call it a day?

    Thanks again btw!

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    You can flash it and go but it recommended you do some datalogging and post here or, if you can't get help here, the AP sub on NASIOC has proven helpful for me.
    Check out the Cobb page on "How to Datalog"; it's very useful.
    A protune (professional/custom tune) is when you take your car to a professional shop/tuner and have them tune the car, most often on a dynamometer (instrument for measuring force/torque/power). This is the best tune you can get as it is made for especially for your car with a professional monitoring the changes as they are made.

    Your Cobb flash is an "off the shelf" (OTS) tune and, in your case, is made for all MY14 WRXs. While still much more fun over the stock tune, it doesn't account for small differences between vehicles that are inherent in manufacturing tolerances.

    A third option is the E-tune (electronic; tuning version of e-mail?) where you buy a tuner's OTS map, load it on your AP & car then datalog and send results to the e-tuner who would then modify the tune for your vehicle based on the data.

    Pro-tune is typically considered best but is expensive; often 150-400$/hour depending where you like.
    An e-tune is kind of the hybrid, middle of the road option that is cheaper than pro, and if you're using a tactrix cable/laptop, can be much cheaper than AP. (Personally, I bought an AP, flashed the COBB OTS map but wasn't thrilled so bought an E-tune from Torqued Performance. There's WTFTuning on this board, don't if they're doing E-tunes or not. Clark Turner also gets love from the subaru community as well for Etunes.)

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    Registered User nsibanez's Avatar
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    Wtftuning is pretty good as well.
    The pro tune will be more accurate because you're putting a simulated road force on the car.
    The ots maps are basically universal maps for whatever years and models they work for but like said do not account for tiny variables in each car. You will notice an amazing difference in a flash though. A much more linear power band

    You're correct, you can install the AP first, then it will store the stock map for whenever you decide to Uninstaller th AP. What that means is you connect it to the car; it'll start it's downloading process, and you're good to go with flashing the tune on. The AP does not need to always be hooked up for the tune to stay either, it's only when you physically press uninstall that it unmarries from your car

    Depending on what you want to do some people use the ots maps for the time being until they want to go beyond stage 2, and need custom tuning. You'll be set with just flashing it and going about your way
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    Thank you both very much for all of that information!

    The once concern I have with all the methods of tuning, with the exception of the AP, is that they will be seen by the shop whenever I take my car in, but the AP can be uninstalled and they wont be able to tell the difference between that or say unplugging the battery, so my warranty is safe. <--- That run-on sentence...

    I'm leaning towards the AP just because it seems hassle free, especially if all I do is install it myself and not even go anywhere to get it improved. Seems like something I can get done in less than 10 minutes, and although not the "best" from all the other options, is hassle free and extremely simple. Plus I don't need that much more power, especially since my dad and I share the car and are still paying it off, we don't need anything extreme yet.

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    Registered User nsibanez's Avatar
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    No not necessarily true. They can look at a flash counter. How many people even need to disconnect the battery other then replacing it, or some maintenance. The best thing you can do is first decide how important the warranty is. Anytime you do any mod to the car you risk problems, and reliability. If you want to ha email no warranty issues then just don't mod. That's the risk you take with any modification

    If you want to mod it, something goes wrong, best thing you can do is just be up front and honest about the car and what's done. The dealer would be more willing to work with you
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    Quote Originally Posted by nsibanez View Post
    No not necessarily true. They can look at a flash counter. How many people even need to disconnect the battery other then replacing it, or some maintenance. The best thing you can do is first decide how important the warranty is. Anytime you do any mod to the car you risk problems, and reliability. If you want to ha email no warranty issues then just don't mod. That's the risk you take with any modification

    If you want to mod it, something goes wrong, best thing you can do is just be up front and honest about the car and what's done. The dealer would be more willing to work with you

    Oh ok, I was under the impression that the AP is one of the few mods to the car that can go undetected. Well I guess I'll just keep the car as it is right now, maybe upgrade the rims and tires in the future if I move somewhere without snow. Thanks again!

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    Registered User nsibanez's Avatar
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    Nothing can go undetected if they want to look. Being a tech, if you look around you can tell if something has been done
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    Registered User Germz to Japz's Avatar
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    Dang, well then I guess being honest and up front is the way to go.

    Now the question is should I order the AP and install it or leave the car alone... decisions... decisions...

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    I made it about 18,000 miles before going stage 1. =)

  13. #12
    Registered User nsibanez's Avatar
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    I made it to about 110k lol
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    You're both very patient guys lol.

    I'm not sure if I have that kind of will power right now.

    My dad is indifferent so that doesn't help.

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    CAPV3 - Quick Question

    Hello everyone! I know I brought this up before but a few things just came up and I wanted to get some insight from the wiser and more experienced group of people here.

    ---------

    1 - Is there any downside of buying a used CAPV3?

    2 - If I buy a CAPV3 and all I do is just hook it up and download the map, I should be good to go right? I don't need to go to a Dyno or datalog or do any of that correct?

    3 - If I have the ECU flashed to be set and running on 93, can I in the future set up a different map for 91 or is that not recommended? I always fill up on 93 but I know that if I go to an area for a mini-trip that I will only have 91 available to me.

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    1: As long as the accessport is unmarried from the previous car it was used on you should have zero issues

    2: It all depends on your mods. If you follow cobbs map notes and flash the right map for your mods (i.e. you have a cobb sf intake and no other mods you would want the cobb stage 1 tune for the sf intake and either 91 or 93 octane depending on what you use) I believe the maps for the aem cai and the cobb intake have to be downloaded from cobbs website. They explain how to do it right there on their website. Protunes on a dyno are always going to be better than a OTS map from cobb. But is not needed. And datalogging is simple with an accessport, and recommended to do periodically to make sure your car is running right and took well to the map.

    3: The glory of the accessport is it literally takes seconds to reflash a new map. So if you had the 93 octane stage 1 map for 93 octane flashed to your car and needed to switch to 91 in an area where 93 isnt available, you could run the tank to almost empty, fill up with 91 and flash the 91 map. But if it is only for a short time and only a couple gallons of 91 to make it somewhere that had 93 you would be fine.
    Last edited by WRX-maniac; 02-07-2015 at 08:07 PM.
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