Skeptical about Cobb AP - Page 3
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This is a discussion on Skeptical about Cobb AP within the Tuning: Electronic Engine Management forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; I agree the end result is based on the driving habits and the tune decisions made on parts etc....

  1. #31
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    I agree the end result is based on the driving habits and the tune decisions made on parts etc.

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  3. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt troise View Post
    Ok thanks a lot Mcbill. I've never understand what data logging meant until I heard on these forums. Now I have a clearer picture of what's involved. That's what I can't get over is the gamble of pay to play. I just have that have that feeling with my luck something will go wrong, and I would never be able to forgive myself for screwing up a perfectly exceptionally fast sports sedan. It's happened before to me with a mustang, my first car and i went through the whole cherrade with ford trying to cover my car after it failed. I understand they have to prove the part caused the fail, but they are not going to replace/fix it right on the spot, you have to wait for court dates and all that mess and in the mean time your out of a car for x number of months. Idk I think the risk/reward isn't worth it, cause really what do you get in the end, 20 unreliable horses? Idk maybe I'm wrong, I'd really like to be pushin 300
    And that's the risk we all take when we play with our cars. These cars are perfectly reliable and quite powerful stock. It sounds to me that you have made up your mind for now. That may change later down the road, but for now take a step back think about it some more, run the car as it is. you don't have to do something right now. 300HP is definitely not a far reach, but if you want 300+ HP then you are talking mods a bit past the basic stage 2 level and by the way it sounds you aren't willing to do that at this point in time. If you are really wanting to upgrade something and not worry about toasting the brawn under the hood then a great place to start is with the suspension, sway bars, end links, a good spring and strut combination, Proper tires for the seasons etc. These upgrades will seriously change the way the car performs without even tapping into the HP upgrade capabilities. This may not be a bad place to start if you are very skeptical about blowing something up.
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  7. #36
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    Yea I was just saying that on another thread. Right now I'm perfectly content with the power, I would like to improve suspension. Wheels/tires/sways that's what I'm gonna start with. I enjoy carving back roads more than drag racing, that's really why I bought the car and to have fun in snow, but more power is always fun


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  8. #37
    Registered User XRedJar's Avatar
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    On my 13 hatch, I've got the AP and am running the Stage 1 91 octane Cobb map that has been modified a bit by my e-tuner. I'm running 16 lbs. of boost and while I don't datalog everyday, I do have the AP running and monitor it as I drive. On a dyno dynamics dyno...I'm putting down 240/256. That should be well within the window to ensure good durability for a daily driver.

    I've had mine on a dyno and the AFRs are all in the 11.0 - 11.2 range. I get some knock readings under low load which I believe is false knock because on all my WOT 3rd gear runs, I don't see any knock.

    Cobb's tunes are very conservative, and provided the car is in good mechanical condition....not cause any issue. The warranty will not be voided, but as others have said....the dealer could deny a claim in the powertrain relating to aftermarket tuning. Possible it could happen yes, probable it will happen...no. I leave my AP connected when I go for service, and it's documented by the service dept. I believe in being straight up with them and not trying to play "hide and seek" with it.

    I figure if something happens they may extend some good faith help, or not...but that is a risk I assume. The biggest thing I like about the AP is that with the OTS tunes, you get rid of the stutter during WOT and improve driveability.

    I think going Stage 1 is a low percentage risk as far as anything going wrong, but you need to do what you feel comfortable with.
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  9. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by XRedJar View Post
    On my 13 hatch, I've got the AP and am running the Stage 1 91 octane Cobb map that has been modified a bit by my e-tuner. I'm running 16 lbs. of boost and while I don't datalog everyday, I do have the AP running and monitor it as I drive. On a dyno dynamics dyno...I'm putting down 240/256. That should be well within the window to ensure good durability for a daily driver.

    I've had mine on a dyno and the AFRs are all in the 11.0 - 11.2 range. I get some knock readings under low load which I believe is false knock because on all my WOT 3rd gear runs, I don't see any knock.

    Cobb's tunes are very conservative, and provided the car is in good mechanical condition....not cause any issue. The warranty will not be voided, but as others have said....the dealer could deny a claim in the powertrain relating to aftermarket tuning. Possible it could happen yes, probable it will happen...no. I leave my AP connected when I go for service, and it's documented by the service dept. I believe in being straight up with them and not trying to play "hide and seek" with it.

    I figure if something happens they may extend some good faith help, or not...but that is a risk I assume. The biggest thing I like about the AP is that with the OTS tunes, you get rid of the stutter during WOT and improve driveability.

    I think going Stage 1 is a low percentage risk as far as anything going wrong, but you need to do what you feel comfortable with.
    I'm very surprised to hear that the AFRs were in the 11s. Cobb typically runs extremely high BSFC as a guard against detonation. On my Cobb tune, the target AFR at WOT was 10.6 IIRC.

    Also, were the AFRs collected using an exhaust gas analyzer? And was the map unaltered from Cobb?

    EDIT:

    The first thing I did after flashing the Cobb was lean out the fueling a bit.
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    Ok cool sounds good xredjar. Yea my car is in perfect condition it's only 6months old it's a '14 bought brand new


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  11. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by zax View Post
    I'm very surprised to hear that the AFRs were in the 11s. Cobb typically runs extremely high BSFC as a guard against detonation. On my Cobb tune, the target AFR at WOT was 10.6 IIRC.

    Also, were the AFRs collected using an exhaust gas analyzer? And was the map unaltered from Cobb?

    EDIT:

    The first thing I did after flashing the Cobb was lean out the fueling a bit.

    Zax - I started with the 91 Octane Stage 1 OTS tune, and had my E-tuner use that as the starting point.

    On the dyno, they used the tailpipe probe to get the AFRs...so I suspected the readings may be a bit leaner than actual. Still safe, so no worries.

    Matt - Just offering my observations....and congrats on your car!
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  12. #41
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    Thanks xredjar. Is it better to tune while it's new vs. when it's older??


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  13. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by XRedJar
    On the dyno, they used the tailpipe probe to get the AFRs...so I suspected the readings may be a bit leaner than actual. Still safe, so no worries.
    The catalyst will cause the tailpipe to read leaner than a sensor that was placed pre-cat. Therefore, it will be richer at the motor than what's being read at the tailpipe.

    With 11-11.2 AFR readings at the tailpipe, I wouldn't be surprised if it was 10.6-10.8 at the motor.
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  14. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by EJ257 View Post
    The catalyst will cause the tailpipe to read leaner than a sensor that was placed pre-cat. Therefore, it will be richer at the motor than what's being read at the tailpipe.

    With 11-11.2 AFR readings at the tailpipe, I wouldn't be surprised if it was 10.6-10.8 at the motor.
    Thanks for the info, it confirms my assumption was correct. I had my a wide band in tuning my S2000, seemed overkill for stage 1 on the WRX. I'm still a novice, and always appreciate someone taking a minute to explain things.


    Matt - I don't think it matters much as long as it's in good mechanical condition. It's surprising how much was left on the table in terms of driveability with the stock tune. Even the OTS tunes in the AP make it much more enjoyable to drive.
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  15. #44
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    Yea?? Ok cool thanks a lot red jar, I know I want to do it bad, I'm just scared to pull the trigger, plus idk I might trade up for a new Sti in a couple years, so I might want to leave mine stock, I'm just not sure what to do yet


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    I doubt ill trade up, the Sti is just so expensive, I'm sure ill but the AP soon and get my beast tuned up


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