Tuned to OTS AP stage 1 93 octane + AEM, how are my numbers?
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 21

This is a discussion on Tuned to OTS AP stage 1 93 octane + AEM, how are my numbers? within the Tuning: Electronic Engine Management forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; I have been running my CAI with OTS tune for 3 days now, and wanted to know how these stats ...

  1. #1
    Lando Calrissian DemonWRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Cloud City, Bespin
    Posts
    3,284
    I Support ClubWRX

    Tuned to OTS AP stage 1 93 octane + AEM, how are my numbers?

    I have been running my CAI with OTS tune for 3 days now, and wanted to know how these stats look..

    A/F ratio is 11.0 at WOT full boost, shoots up to 20.4 when I shift (due to the bpv I assume)

    Boost tops out at 16 flat (which is 1.0 short of target according to map info)

    At WOT at just over 5000 RPM I have -1.4 knock (not sure if that is normal or bad), note anywhere else, and none when not WOT.

    What else should I be paying attention to?

    Not sure if this matters, it was about 91 degrees yesterday (when the readings were taken). This is on a '11 WRX.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    ClubWRX.net
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    ClubWRX.net Vendor adam@kronosperformance's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
    Posts
    3,987
    I Support ClubWRX
    The goal is to have 0 knock especially at wide open throttle. Its pulling timing and will affect your power and reliability in the long run.

    I would suggest getting a Pro Tune to take care of that problem.

    Also your fueling is a bit on the rich side...11.5 A/F would be more ideal. 20 A/F off throttle is normal.
    ClubWRX.net's #1 Vendor! www.kronosperformance.com sales@kronosperformance.com Call/Text 732-742-8837 We Offer a Military Discount
    Our Facebook | Our Twitter | Our Instagram | Our Pinterest
    Our featured brands
    RALLY ARMOR | BC RACING | PERRIN | MISHIMOTO | GRIMMSPEED

  4. #3
    Lando Calrissian DemonWRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Cloud City, Bespin
    Posts
    3,284
    I Support ClubWRX
    Good to know. Thank you. Do I risk damaging my engine right now? I do not race (currently) and do not normally go WOT much on surface roads. I ask as right now I can't afford a protune.

  5. #4
    The Fruit mangostick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    VB VA .. the ghetto on the sea
    Posts
    4,735
    may also want to try the 91 octane map.. esp this time of year. Even if you can get 93 consistently I'd be skeptical at trusting it.

    I will add that I have no way to prove octane might be lower than what the pump says.. however always good to have somewhat of a cusion and you never know if you'll have to fill up somewhere that only sells 91 octane.
    OBP 2010 5dr *traded*
    SWP 2013 FRS
    My name is Shawn, I'm a Devout Practicalist and I'm addicted to flat4's
    This page has had 1,666 visits
    SUCH IS MANGO!

  6. #5
    Lando Calrissian DemonWRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Cloud City, Bespin
    Posts
    3,284
    I Support ClubWRX
    mangostick, thanks for the suggestion.

    I started wondering last night if maybe I got semi bad gas (wrong rating or other factors). It was a quality gas company (Sunoco), but the station I last filled at was not my normal station, and appears to be independently owned by a couple that we will say 'might cut corners'. I find that when the attached store is dirty, and the shelves/displays are second hand/out of date, that the gas from the pump *might* not be what it states on the sticker. But when you need gas, and there aren't really any options to choose from, you have to get gas.

  7. #6
    The Fruit mangostick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    VB VA .. the ghetto on the sea
    Posts
    4,735
    yep.. if ya need it ya need it.. and that's my point. the 91 map allows for more of a pillow vs the 93 map. I'm big on safe margins when it comes to tuning and seeing my real world for what it is, I never count on having the best available to me when I might need it.

    Protune with a regular tank of 92 would probably be best though. OTS tunes are very general as is.
    OBP 2010 5dr *traded*
    SWP 2013 FRS
    My name is Shawn, I'm a Devout Practicalist and I'm addicted to flat4's
    This page has had 1,666 visits
    SUCH IS MANGO!

  8. #7
    Lando Calrissian DemonWRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Cloud City, Bespin
    Posts
    3,284
    I Support ClubWRX
    Quote Originally Posted by mangostick View Post
    Protune with a regular tank of 92 would probably be best though. OTS tunes are very general as is.
    Right, I just don't want to pay for a protune till I have more mods than just a CAI. Seems a waist of money till I get stuff that really needs it like say bigger injectors, after market turbo, down and up pipes, intercooler upgrade, etc. Protune is coming, just not yet.

  9. #8
    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    On a stream bank somewhere
    Posts
    19,768
    I Support ClubWRX
    Quote Originally Posted by DemonWRX
    Right, I just don't want to pay for a protune till I have more mods than just a CAI. Seems a waist of money till I get stuff that really needs it like say bigger injectors, after market turbo, down and up pipes, intercooler upgrade, etc. Protune is coming, just not yet.
    When you get a downpipe, get a custom tune. More power everywhere in the RPM range. Then stockpile turbo swap parts until you can get another one done.

    Buffalo is a bit of a trek for you, but Mike @ Innovative Tuning has done some nice work with the '11s. Here's a graph he posted not too long ago:


    For reference, stock STIs have been in the 195-200whp range on this dyno, unlike some other "heartbreaker" dynos that have a decent amount of CF applied.
    Last edited by EJ257; 08-03-2011 at 02:41 PM.
    2005 WRX STi (Mods | Virtual Dyno)

    Resident Tuner @ WTF Tuning

    "Never trust anything that bleeds for a week and lives ..."

    UNYSOC

  10. #9
    Lando Calrissian DemonWRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Cloud City, Bespin
    Posts
    3,284
    I Support ClubWRX
    I got new gas last night from my normal station (also Sunoco) and the knock dropped from -1.4 degrees to -0.7 degrees. I reflashed to the 91octane + AEM and knock is all gone. Think should work for now.... till I get some colder plugs

  11. #10
    The Fruit mangostick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    VB VA .. the ghetto on the sea
    Posts
    4,735
    sweet.. that's good news. I didn't even think to mention cooler plugs though.. (on a car this new usually the last thing I'd think of) good research

    keep us posted I'm really interested to see how you fare once you change out the plugs. I'm considering this same mod path here shortly.
    OBP 2010 5dr *traded*
    SWP 2013 FRS
    My name is Shawn, I'm a Devout Practicalist and I'm addicted to flat4's
    This page has had 1,666 visits
    SUCH IS MANGO!

  12. #11
    Lando Calrissian DemonWRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Cloud City, Bespin
    Posts
    3,284
    I Support ClubWRX
    OK, will do, but right now I am having to 'drop back and punt'...

    I bought the colder NGK iridium plugs, have them gapped, but can't get them installed. I tried on Sunday to install them, following the 'How To' that Big Sky wrote here: How to change your sparkplugs
    but the 2011 is quite a but different than the one Big Sky used in that write-up. The driver's side has the brake boost controller ducting in the way, and both driver's and passenger's sides head are so close to the frame, I can't really get my hands in there. I may try again after buying a smaller ratchet and some flex sockets... or I might have the dealer swap them out if that is not too expensive. Will keep you posted though.

  13. #12
    Lando Calrissian DemonWRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Cloud City, Bespin
    Posts
    3,284
    I Support ClubWRX
    OK, attempt number 2 installing plugs....FAIL

    I came back with a smaller rachet/socket set and some extensions and flex joints. I removed the battery, disconnected the brake boost ducting (driver's side) then started removing the ciol packs on the driver's side (appears to be the hard side). The front coil pack was simple and got completely out of the way without issue. The rear coil pack, however, does not have enough room between the head and the frame rail to be fully removed from the block. It seems that on the 2011 MY at least (and I would assume this includes the 09 and 10 STI) the block must be lifted a bit to get the plugs changed. So now I will have to ask the dealer to change my plugs when I go in for my first scheduled maintenance (next week or two). I was hoping not to have to involve them in my modding, but oh well.

  14. #13
    The Fruit mangostick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    VB VA .. the ghetto on the sea
    Posts
    4,735
    I haven't tried to pull the plugs in my '10 yet.. but sounds like its a bit of a pita. I'm coming up on 60k here shortly so I'll be having that service done at the dealer. I'd do it myself but the fluid disposal part is a pita. I'll have to ask when I bring it in how they get to the plugs. Likely this will be the last major dealer service so I'll be doing the wrenching from here on out.
    OBP 2010 5dr *traded*
    SWP 2013 FRS
    My name is Shawn, I'm a Devout Practicalist and I'm addicted to flat4's
    This page has had 1,666 visits
    SUCH IS MANGO!

  15. #14
    Lando Calrissian DemonWRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Cloud City, Bespin
    Posts
    3,284
    I Support ClubWRX
    OK, have the new plugs in!

    I had the dealer put them in. Unfortunately, the tech (mechanic) had gone to lunch after finishing my car (my dealer washes all cars after service before letting you know they are done) so I was unable to ask how it was done. Another tech told me that depending on the specific Subaru, some coil packs can be removed with twisting them into the right position, some they unbolt the motor mounts and shift the engine to one side (driver's or passenger's) far enough to get them out, and some they have to lift and tilt the engine slightly. Not sure which one was used on my car.

    In any case, new plugs are in ( NGK Irridium LFR7AIX), and I gapped them to .027 (stock is .030). I am now back to OTS 93 octane + A.E.M. and getting full boost with absolutely no knock.

    The only downside is the cost to have a dealer install them. That was kind of painful.

  16. #15
    Moderator T0rque's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Medford, Oregon
    Posts
    25,521
    I Support ClubWRX
    you gapped a laser iridium plug??? Dont do that again...


    Lead Wrench @ WTF Tuning, LLC

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself. We strongly suggest that you stay away from using aol, yahoo, msn, and hotmail accounts. Sometimes the mail server blocks the emails from our server. As a result you will not receive any notifications including the confirmation email.

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •