Yes, you need an EM.. stop asking

[idipskoalmint]

Originally Posted by Rogan

telling them what they should/shouldn't buy, is opinionated.

your and my opinions differ. you enjoy Cobb, and I prefer RomRaider.

90$ vs. 600$.

$600 buys me EMS and 510$ of other go-fast goodies.

Again, though, opinionated.

+1

Tack in the ability to tweak the map for a custom tune

The ability to pull logs to see what you car is doing

Romraider >> Cobb

[ninefourteener]

An Engine Management system is a crucial upgrade, particularly for the mods listed in this thread.

As far as "which" EM system is best, that is entirely personal opinion. I'm sure the low-cost EM (tatrix, etc) are just as good as the Cobb AP, provided you KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. I've heard horror stories of people opting to buy "self-tuning" software that have no idea what they are doing, and end up blowing something up.

I'm FAR from a computer expert, and quite frankly, when I start thinking about the science of air/fuel ratios, etc, I get frustrated.

I don't think anyone can argue that the COBB AP is by far the most "user friendly", particularly for newbs or computer idiots like myself. I also don't think anyone can argue that Cobb has outstanding customer service.

I'm quite certain that MANY will argue with what cobb charges for the Accessport though

Hopefully, the buyer is well educated on the differences, weighs the pros and cons of each, and smart enough to know that he/she needs some kind of EM before bolting on that brand new GT40--LOL

[20WRX04]

Originally Posted by Timdog1650

Turbo inlet hose/any pressurized post-turbo piping or hoses: Absolutely not, these do very little to change the performance of the car and really only help making the turbo parts easier to remove/install.

I highly disagree.
If you don't get tuned for an aftermarket turbo inlet, you will experience overboosting, fuel cut & a CEL. Don't ask me how I know.

[05wrxftw!]

Originally Posted by ninefourteener

An Engine Management system is a crucial upgrade, particularly for the mods listed in this thread.

As far as "which" EM system is best, that is entirely personal opinion. I'm sure the low-cost EM (tatrix, etc) are just as good as the Cobb AP, provided you KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. I've heard horror stories of people opting to buy "self-tuning" software that have no idea what they are doing, and end up blowing something up.

I'm FAR from a computer expert, and quite frankly, when I start thinking about the science of air/fuel ratios, etc, I get frustrated.

I don't think anyone can argue that the COBB AP is by far the most "user friendly", particularly for newbs or computer idiots like myself. I also don't think anyone can argue that Cobb has outstanding customer service.

I'm quite certain that MANY will argue with what cobb charges for the Accessport though

Hopefully, the buyer is well educated on the differences, weighs the pros and cons of each, and smart enough to know that he/she needs some kind of EM before bolting on that brand new GT40--LOL

cant stress that fact out enough. i agree completely with u .

it should also be noted that a skilled tuner (knowledgeable in EFI) should be the only one to get the cheaper, OpenEcu software and go at it. i gave my old tuner/mechanic a crack at reflashing my car, and my car didnt like it. throwing CEL's, fuel cut, etc. i turned it stock, bought a Cobb AP and never looked back. nothing against the programming tho, its just that the "tuner" i went to was a dumbass and put a map on my car that was a lil more aggressive the map on his own suby (an sti turbo swapped, sti injector swapped baja). deff left an impression on me that certain people shouldnt be allowed to do certain sh_t on cars lol. sometimes the thought crosses my mind of selling my AP and going to another veteran tuner down near philly and letting him tune my car with OpenEcu (Turbotek Tuning for those of who know of them). BUT ............i wouldnt be able to switch maps if i chose to (Economy, Valet mode, stock ecu, etc.). so the decision is a tough one. a really tough one.

[Donkey]

Originally Posted by 05wrxftw!

cant stress that fact out enough. i agree completely with u .

it should also be noted that a skilled tuner (knowledgeable in EFI) should be the only one to get the cheaper, OpenEcu software and go at it. i gave my old tuner/mechanic a crack at reflashing my car, and my car didnt like it. throwing CEL's, fuel cut, etc. i turned it stock, bought a Cobb AP and never looked back. nothing against the programming tho, its just that the "tuner" i went to was a dumbass and put a map on my car that was a lil more aggressive the map on his own suby (an sti turbo swapped, sti injector swapped baja). deff left an impression on me that certain people shouldnt be allowed to do certain sh_t on cars lol. sometimes the thought crosses my mind of selling my AP and going to another veteran tuner down near philly and letting him tune my car with OpenEcu

You do realize that you can buy premade maps (just like Cobb's OTS maps or better) or custom made maps that can just be flashed to your car using Opensource software.Just because you go the Opensource route,it doesn't mean you are stuck having to tune your own car or pay for custom dyno tuning.

[Black X Dahlia]

Originally Posted by ninefourteener

5) a BOV will do NOTHING for you.. at all. In fact, if you don't get a recirculating BOV, you'll probably end up hurting your performance. Either way, you do not need a tune to install one.

I was under the influence that a BOV was efficient with high boost levels (20psi+).

[DUB]

Originally Posted by Black X Dahlia

I was under the influence that a BOV was efficient with high boost levels (20psi+).

Once you get to very high boost levels, the stock BPV may not be able to hold in all that pressure. In which case you would need to upgrade to an after market model. Said after market BOV could still be 100% recirculating, it would just be designed to hold higher pressure.
Or I guess you can crush the stocker, but I wouldn't know anything about that.

[Black X Dahlia]

yea says that aftermarket Recirc. OR BOV would work

[05wrxftw!]

Originally Posted by Donkey

You do realize that you can buy premade maps (just like Cobb's OTS maps or better) or custom made maps that can just be flashed to your car using Opensource software.Just because you go the Opensource route,it doesn't mean you are stuck having to tune your own car or pay for custom dyno tuning.

i actually didnt know that there are pre-made OpenEcu maps out there.

[DUB]

Originally Posted by 05wrxftw!

i actually didnt know that there are pre-made OpenEcu maps out there.

Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce for one.

[idipskoalmint]

Originally Posted by 05wrxftw!

i actually didnt know that there are pre-made OpenEcu maps out there.

Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce

[05wrxftw!]

ill be damned, look at that.......


i dont see anything for a mitsu turbo swap tho (16-20G) and i am in the process of buying one as we speak......

so u just order those said maps and they send u a CD rom or something? and tactrix cable?

[Rogan]

Originally Posted by DUB

Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce for one.

Originally Posted by idipskoalmint

Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce

you two are scary...

[Donkey]

Originally Posted by 05wrxftw!

ill be damned, look at that.......


i dont see anything for a mitsu turbo swap tho (16-20G) and i am in the process of buying one as we speak......

so u just order those said maps and they send u a CD rom or something? and tactrix cable?

Just like downloading maps off of Cobb's site.Basiclly instead off using the AP to flash your car you use the laptop.You buy the cable on your own.Dude,that is one site.There are other sites where people have dyno tuned maps on other cars.You tell them your mods.They send you a baseline OTS map.You log the car after installing said map and send them the log.They look it over and make sure everything is okey-dokey and make changes is need.This is old news.

[Donkey]

Originally Posted by Black X Dahlia

I was under the influence that a BOV was efficient with high boost levels (20psi+).

It has more to do with air volume than psi.20psi on a stock turbo or even a 16g is WAY different than running 20psi on a GT35R.Same pressure,totally different air volumes.You can also moddify the stock valve to hold up to 25psi.Mine does that just fine.You can use the old DSM trick or block of the signal passage on the stocker and redrill the passage to reference atmospheric pressure.It's way easier than it sounds.If you want a atmospheric bov,get an atmospheric bov.Just don't kid yourself into thinking you needed it or it doesn't hamper performance.All those that say it doesn't are using data provided by their butt dyno's.I use data recorded on a laptop with a wideband and basic physics of how the device works and how MAF based fueling works.Some general info but don't read into it to deep.The reference to boost pressure s relating to racing conditions.The part about normal boost levels has to do with daily driven cars,not race vehicels:
Blow-off Valves