Resurface Slotted rotors?

**AgentH** · 07-23-2007 10:59 AM

Can any Philly area people suggest a place (Machine shop/Auto repair place?) for me to take my Slotted rotors to have them turned? I called Patrick Weaver from Just Tires (they only do wheels & Alignments) in East Norriton and he suggested someone who I called, but didn't inspire much confidence. I then called Berril Auto Repair in Horsham who have a dyno and work mostly with Domestic cars. They do very little resurfacing and suggested I go to a machine shop

I called the place they recommend, Markovich Auto Parts Inc and said they can do em. They're way out of my way though (Warminster) so it would be pretty hard for me to get there during the week. I also called JSCSpeed and they couldn't recommend anyone.

**mike05STi** · 07-23-2007 11:24 AM

From the research that I just did on Google, you can have them resurfaced but most shops won't do it because it tears up their cutting bits. You could try a machine shop and see if they if they will do it. It may cost you considerably more than to just have a smooth rotor turned, for reasons stated above.

**AgentH** · 07-23-2007 12:38 PM

I called a couple more places up and ... nothing yet. I might have to take them to Markovich afterall. It'll be like a 2 day affair though.

I'm beginning to wonder if the grief of slotted rotors is worth the performance gains. ESP since they're mostly used on the street.

**wrx wagone** · 07-23-2007 07:11 PM

Why do you need to get the rotors cut? Are you sure they are warped? Often times the vibration during braking is caused by uneven pad deposits and not the rotors actually being warped.

I know Weldon Auto Parts NAPA in Lansdale has a machine shop that will cut rotors. I'm not sure if they will do slotted.

**AgentH** · 07-24-2007 06:40 AM

I made a cheesy little diagram to illustrate. Basically there's a lip on the outter diameter of the rotor suface. My current pads have worn a goove down on the suface leaving that lip. The new pads are slightly wider and would ride on top of that lip. A coworker of mine says the pads will just conform after a little bit. But past experiences have lead me to believe that a worn rotor surface with a brand new pad do not mesh well and vibrations will result.

CCI sports racing recommended I call up Weldon. Their machine shop will be closed until wednesday unfortunatly. I will probably call them and find out and post up here so everyone knows. My Dad found a place in Ambler I believe. And on my way home, I stopped in H/P Specialties in Elkins Park. They're an authorized Audi shop. The owner seems like a prick, but he was pretty confident when I talked to him. I would really like to go elsewhere because of this dude's bad attitude, but it's really the most convenient place I could go (drop off in the morning, pick up at night). Plus the place in ambler wanted $30/rotor and this guy only wanted $15. The job he does is totally unproportional to how much of a DB he is, so we'll see.

**blackzwrx** · 07-30-2007 09:47 AM

I'll do your rotors for you at my shop. Just take them off your car and give me them. I'll take them into work and do them. You can pick them up from me when I'm done work. I work in feasterville and live in Doylestown/warrington. PM me if you are interested.

P.S. rotor lathe bits are pretty cheap, and if you know how to use the lathe properly you won't tear up the bits at all

**AgentH** · 07-30-2007 10:57 AM

Thanks Blackzwrx. What shop do you work at?

I actually did them this past weekend though. I ended up taking them to the place my Dad found in Glennside/North Hills. Weldon auto shop, which is owned by NAPA. Theres an older fella there who has been working there forever. Real nice guy named carlos. He had some pretty good stories and didn't mind me looking over his shoulder as he worked. They fix and rebuild motors. Everything from blocks to valves. I was worried when he started cutting them. I didn't mention that I only wanted the lip cut off and he started zeroing in on it and put a light groove right in the middle. Then as he was making his passes, you could see that the surface was uneven. It wore lobsided actually. But he only took off a little bit. 19 thousandths, or .5mm. The minimum wear thickness is 22mm on a stock set rotor and when I measured mine, I had a lot more than that (although I do forget exactly how much). The rotor was not worn below the slots. The pads are still braking in. They (Hawk) say you should take it easy for the frirst 100 miles. Right now, they still feel a little weak. They don't have the stabby kind of response that the stockers did, but I'm sure I'll get that back after a day or so of driving.