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This is a discussion on Change To Syn Gear Oil Now! within the Transmission & AWD forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; when did you look at the dipstick? maybe you just needed to drive the car around abit, then let the ...

  1. #31
    Moderator Penguinking's Avatar
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    when did you look at the dipstick?

    maybe you just needed to drive the car around abit, then let the oil settle, then check the dipstick

    sorta like w/ motor oil i guess...
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  3. #32
    Registered User PlatinumWRX's Avatar
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    Dale,

    I think the tranny and diffs have to be warm when checked and drained.

    If you are overfull after a moderate drive, take some out.

    -Jim

  4. #33
    Moderator GV27's Avatar
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    Yeah, it's totally normal for it to read a bit high immediately after filling it. Take it for a short drive to get the oil into all the nooks and crannys, let it settle, then check it. If you didn't drain it warm, you didn't get everything out. No big deal, just that it'll take a bit less to fill it.
    "Inasmuch as ye have done it to one of the least of these my brethren, ye have done it to me." -Jesus

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  5. #34
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    Well I changed mine last week.

    And not good.

    I mixed 50/50 between redline 75w90 and 75w90ns

    Now I have an issue with grinding when going into 1st from 2nd. Or from Idel. Im dropping the fluid tomorrow and putting in 75w90ns only to see how it goes from there.

  6. #35
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    I've run about 2K miles on the Mobil 1.. I don't recall the weight but it's the weight recommended in the Owner's Manual.

    Still no problems. And the shifting is, in my opinion, getting better.

    Russ

  7. #36
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    Me too

    Originally posted by Baluchitherium4
    I changed the gear oil in my tranny and diff. to Mobil 1 syth. 75w90 this past weekend. The shifting did get a little smoother. I'm going to run it a while with the Mobil and see how it works out.

    BTW, I know the tranny is supposed to take 3.7qts. I drained what looked to be at least that much out and refilled with 3.5qts. Now, the dipstick shows overfilled. It is maybe a 1/4 inch above the "Full" mark. Anyone have any suggestions on why it shows overfilled? Also, should I drain some of it out or let it be.

    Thanks in advance,

    Dale
    Actually, I did Royal Purple 75W90. As needed, I drained the OE gear oil warm, with the car level (I even jacked up the rear end for awhile to really get all the dino product out.)

    After putting in 3.5 qts., I'm about 1/4" (or less) above the full mark. This is measured cold, and the car has been driven over 200 miles with the RP in. What the heck is up with this? I know I got all the OE oil out, and only put 3.5 qts. in.

    Oh well, I'll siphon some out if needed. It's just bugging me.

    Jim

    BTW - Trans. is noticeably smoother. So far, so good. I plan on doing the rear diff. with RP as well.
    MY02 WRB WRX SportWagon

  8. #37
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    does anyone know how many quarts of redline racing atf i need for my manual wrx? thanks

  9. #38
    Registered User GLwagon's Avatar
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    Originally posted by rayman481
    does anyone know how many quarts of redline racing atf i need for my manual wrx? thanks
    Ummmm... you lost me between ATF & Manual WRX.
    no you need a GL-5 rated oil...

    I just came upon this thread & wonder... Is Mobil lube safe for brass scynro's??? besides having a friction moddier is this stuff safe? I know the bottle says "for all bla bla bla..."
    I was just curious.
    If I had an doubt I'ld call check the link below... (I already have Redline so I wasn't going to dig into it...)

    http://www2.exxonmobil.com/SiteFlow/...Lubricants.asp
    It's stock... honest it is.

    ?wana race?

  10. #39
    Registered User TristineLim's Avatar
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    I've been running Mobil 1 gear oil for the last 5,000 miles or so, and it seems to grind more often when I try to shift into 1st gear going 2-3 mph without double clutching. Hmm I think I'm gonna try Redline next.

  11. #40
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    TristineLim wrote:

    I've been running Mobil 1 gear oil for the last 5,000 miles or so, and it seems to grind more often when I try to shift into 1st gear going 2-3 mph without double clutching. Hmm I think I'm gonna try Redline next.
    I've been getting that, too. I'm not sure it's related to the oil, though.

    Has anyone else got this problem, with or without having made the switch?

    misterx

  12. #41
    Registered User sh90374's Avatar
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    i only have 5000 miles on my car. can i switch to Redline now? is it too early 'cause i know my tranny is not completely broken in yet? thanks.

  13. #42
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    how many quarts of redline racing atf will i need for my wrx..it says you can use it for manual transmission..heres the link

    http://www.synlubes.com/redline/atf.html

    it is the last item. thanks..

  14. #43
    Registered User is2scooby's Avatar
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    The Redline synthetic you are looking at is formulated to be used in manual transmissions that specify ATF fluids. An example of this would be the venerable T5 manual transmission found in the late 80's/early 90's pony cars (Camaros and Mustangs).

    Our manual transmissions (which include a differential due to the AWD nature of our cars) do not call for ATF.

    http://www.redlineoil.com/frames/gearoil.htm
    Aloha, Richard...
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  15. #44
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    I just wanted to bring this thread up again. First I wanted to state that I am using Redline Trans Fluid, and AMSOIL 0w30 Series 2000 Oil in the engine. The car does much better with these lubes. But I have a question. I am thinking about getting Shockproof for my Diffs, but do I need to put any friction modifiers in it so mantain the limited-slip effect?

  16. #45
    Moderator GV27's Avatar
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    Nope, no friction modifiers needed.
    "Inasmuch as ye have done it to one of the least of these my brethren, ye have done it to me." -Jesus

    1990 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce
    1992 Toyota 4Runner SR5 3.Slow
    1993 Honda CBR600F2
    2002 WRX SportWagon *sold*

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