Change To Syn Gear Oil Now! - Page 15
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This is a discussion on Change To Syn Gear Oil Now! within the Transmission & AWD forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Well I think for the rear diff I am going to go with the subaru lsd stuff. As for the ...

  1. #211
    Registered User audiobahnSTI's Avatar
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    Well I think for the rear diff I am going to go with the subaru lsd stuff. As for the tranny I think I will just use the valvoline 75w90 stuff. I haven't had any issues with it. I do go to the track once in a while but not that often that I think I need to change..

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  3. #212
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    Wow.

    I read this entire thread, all 11 pages (well, skipping some of the junk in between).

    I am so glad that Redline reps are reading these posts!

    I had a Nissan Spec V, previously. This (spec v) trans has BRASS synchronizers and GL4 oils are friendly whereas GL5 are corrosive to soft brass/bronze mixes. MTL/MT90 achieves the odd 75w80 weight and allows the thing to work quite well. Synchromesh is interesting stuff. There are TWO types. With and without a friction modifier. SM is brass friendly, but is very light weight and can cause premature synchronizer wear. It has something to do with undercoating the gears. GM manual trans have brass in them. I ran with it for 6 months, shifted great, but put the RL in there to satisfy the synchronizers. It is also the Pennzoil synchromesh, they make it for GM and GM markes it up another 30-70%.

    Now, I drive an 03 WRX. Bought used and with 60K from a person that kept excellent service on it... And I'd like to put a synthetic in it. I like the Redline products, they are magnificent however, I'm confused. Does the shockproof cause bearing wear due to the microscopic particles? Its similar to putting Diamonizer in it right? My gear box seems pretty tight. The syncros work like they should, though with the stock oil, its not easy without some rev matching to put it into first at 15-20mph. I'd like to use something that I can stick with that will extend the life of the trans and keep me shiftable in the winter. Is the NS the right friction level for this trans as it suggests on the website? I know that my old 240sx trans liked pretty thick oil like the 90w140 or something of that nature. What kind of synchros are we working with in these gearboxes?

    Whats the difference in using the superlightweght shockproof as opposed to the 75w90NS? The particles only? and... if the particles are in SLSP and the friction modifiers are not, then why is that working better than the 75w90 regular? (as I'm seeing in posts)Are the particles working like a friction modifier or does it become thicker? How is the SLSP in cold weather (20F)

    -j

  4. #213
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    BTW, the Japanese have some REALLY exotic oils that they tend to use in their cars. Anyone here in Japan? Have them tell you stories of car inspection at the DMV, especially if you're millitary.

  5. #214
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    And just to clarify about the Redline stuff (sorry for the multiposts):

    Friction Modifier means that its REDUCING friction?
    and the NS has MORE friction in it?

    Just sounds backwards.

  6. #215
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    So since no reply, I'm going to do the following after research.

    RL 75w90NS X 3 + Superlight Shockproof X 1 for the box.
    RL 75w90 X 1 for the Rear diff.

    NS is GL5 with the pressure additives. SLSP is for added protection, though I dont "abuse" my gear box. 75w90 is just what works for the rear diff.

    Anyone see any issues with this combination?

  7. #216
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    That would probably do the trick- the Shockproof should help keep things "quiet".
    Quote Originally Posted by udelslayer
    So since no reply, I'm going to do the following after research.

    RL 75w90NS X 3 + Superlight Shockproof X 1 for the box.
    RL 75w90 X 1 for the Rear diff.

    NS is GL5 with the pressure additives. SLSP is for added protection, though I dont "abuse" my gear box. 75w90 is just what works for the rear diff.

    Anyone see any issues with this combination?
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  8. #217
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    someone explained how to change the fluid for the tranny...now how do u change it for the diff...ive been having similar problems when i shift and sometimes hear a click in the back of the car...a friend told me thats from the transfer case but cud it b the rear diff...n e ways i wanna change it

  9. #218
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    do this after youve driven a short distance

    raise the rear of the car.
    Using a 1/2 ratchet (the square part) remove the filler (top) plug.
    Remove the drain (bottom plug).
    btw, put down something to catch the fluid...
    lower the rear of the car, let it drain, clean the filler plug magnet (like the trans)
    when done draining, raise the back up a little again.
    install filler plug
    put in .8qt of fluid in the filler hole (whatever fluid and method you know or can think of, I used a basting syringe) when its full or close to full you'll see stuff ooze out of the filler hole.....
    put that back in, check your qt and make sure you used about .8qt....

    you're good to go.

  10. #219
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    is that clicking tho that u hear from the back the rear diff...it clicks after u give it gas sometimes after u shift???

  11. #220
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    clicking? or clunking?

    the clicking sounds i've heard with this are associated with some kind of switch and the clutch pedal. they dont seem anything major.

    if it was clunking, that could be the diffs but with rwd cars, thats pretty normal.... do we have slip yoke driveshafts?

  12. #221
    Registered User powder's Avatar
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    Don't mean to raise the dead but is it 3.7 total qts or is that just the tranny? How much excess should i buy if i want it in the rear diff also?
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  13. #222
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    3.7 is the tranny, you'll need an additional quart (little less) for the rear diff.
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  14. #223
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    Use about 3.5qt FIRST. Drive, and heat the oil up, then adjust your levels. Additional gear oil in the case may result in about a .25qt difference. Rear diff is just pour it in till it starts to pour out.

  15. #224
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    I've read just about this entire post and i'm quite confused.

    I have about 20k miles on my 04 wrx, and have swapped oil at the dealer about 2 times.

    Anyway, after reading all this it seems full synchromesh would be the best for my car. Is this the right assumption? Should i wait 5k miles to get it swapped?
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  16. #225
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    synchromesh for the trans is not great. synchromesh is for manuals with brass synchronizers so its formulated to be thin enough and non corrosive. Its formulated by Pennzoil for the GM's. It works well in Nissans and Honda manuals...however the subarus use bronze synchronizers. Synchromesh doesnt have the pressure additives you may need for long synchronizer life.

    use redline 75w90NS for the trans, 75w90 for the diff. If you think you might benefit, substitute one of the 75w90NS for Super Lightweight Shockproof and you should be good to go....like a crunchy gordita wrap thing

    I use 75w90ns in my trans, its great, but I think that I'll use some SLWSP in the next change.

    j

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