Kartboy Shifter Front and Rear Bushings on 2014 WRX
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 18

This is a discussion on Kartboy Shifter Front and Rear Bushings on 2014 WRX within the Transmission & AWD forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; I just installed the Kartboy front and rear shifter bushings this morning. It took about an hour and 15 minutes. ...

  1. #1
    Registered User Nayrb37's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    153

    Kartboy Shifter Front and Rear Bushings on 2014 WRX

    I just installed the Kartboy front and rear shifter bushings this morning. It took about an hour and 15 minutes. It was a pretty tight squeeze because I didn't drop the cross member or trans at all.

    The rear bushing was a real pain to get lined up with the threads (I think that took the most time), but once it was lined up the rest was pretty simple.

    However, I am posting this because I did notice a few things that were a bit odd, and I haven't seen anyone else post about them.

    First, this was done on a 2014 WRX, but I was under the impression that it was exactly the same as the 2011 and 2012 WRXs. However, after removing the nut and washer from the front bushing, the large washer was just a plain washer with no notch or angled piece. I have seen a number of videos of people installing the front bushing, and they all seem to note that there is a notch that needs to be lined up, but this was not the case on my car.

    Second, after getting the stock front bushing out, there was no metal bushing in the stock bushing to remove and insert into the Kartboy bushing.

    Third, after reinstalling and tightening the washer and nut there was about a 1mm or 2mm left to right play in the linkage (the Kartboy bushing was slightly more narrow than the stock bushing).

    But I took the car for an easy and short test drive, and everything felt fine, and much more "notchy" than the stock shifter and bushings. Definitely a great upgrade considering you use the shifter more than anything else on the car on a daily basis.

    However, if anyone else has any input on the few oddities that I noticed that would be great.
    2014 Subaru WRX WRB Stage 1
    Stink-Eye Mob # 1.618

    Previous Vehicles: 2010 Subaru Impreza 2.5i; 1997 Ford Mustang Cobra; 1998 Audi A4 1.8T; 1995 Ford Mustang
    A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster. - Jeremy Clarkson

  2. Remove Advertisements
    ClubWRX.net
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Registered User JimboWRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    246
    From what I've been able to gather, the STI designs have a metal bushing insert (Kartboy supplies the replacement bushing with those sets). The WRX design doesn't have a metal bushing. Your 2014 shouldn't be any different than 2010-2013 WRX models.

    I'm getting my shifter bushings installed tomorrow...I'll see if there's any difference that you've noted.

  4. #3
    Registered User Nayrb37's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    153
    Quote Originally Posted by JimboWRX View Post
    From what I've been able to gather, the STI designs have a metal bushing insert (Kartboy supplies the replacement bushing with those sets). The WRX design doesn't have a metal bushing. Your 2014 shouldn't be any different than 2010-2013 WRX models.

    I'm getting my shifter bushings installed tomorrow...I'll see if there's any difference that you've noted.
    I would really appreciate if you follow up! Thanks for letting me know what you have found so far though!

    The shifter and bushings make such a huge difference. So far I love it, way better than the stock setup.
    2014 Subaru WRX WRB Stage 1
    Stink-Eye Mob # 1.618

    Previous Vehicles: 2010 Subaru Impreza 2.5i; 1997 Ford Mustang Cobra; 1998 Audi A4 1.8T; 1995 Ford Mustang
    A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster. - Jeremy Clarkson

  5. #4
    Registered User JimboWRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    246
    Just got done with the bushing and SPT short shifter lever install on my 2013 WRX. Total time for bushings and shifter lever install: one hour. Took off the heat shield and unplugged the O2 sensor to remove the interference. Made the install much easier.

    Observations: Front bushing install: There is no metal bushing that runs through the front bushing like the STI. Also, there's no notch in the washer, but there is a raised edge on the bolt that mates with the washer. This catches the nut upon tightening and results in the clearance you see in the bushings. It appears that the Kartboy front bushing stack might be slightly narrower than the OEM front bushing. I've read numerous threads on front shifter bushing installs on the WRX and they share the same observation regarding the gap. I don't think it affects the function of the front bushing or shifting for that matter.

    Rear Bushing install: The rear bushing needed some lithium grease on the link and bolting it in was a PITA, but if you start threading the bolt on one side and then thread the bolt on the other side, it will catch. Just takes some patience.

    Overall, the throw is definitely shorter than stock (maybe not as short as the Kartboy shifter, but I prefer the height of the stock lever). The shifts feel notchier and solid. It's not rubbery and vague anymore. Funny that I don't hear the transmission NVH that everybody complains about following bushing install, but then again, I am running a Nameless Catback with 5" mufflers and resonator.

  6. #5
    Registered User Nayrb37's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    153
    Awesome! Thanks for the follow up.

    I don't notice any increased noise either, which I had read about. I'm wondering if those hearing increased noise chose not to reinstall that insulated rubber boot under the shift boot that was held in with those white plastic screws.

    When I installed a short throw on my Mustang it required removal of a similar rubber boot, and I remember getting significantly more tranny whine with the short throw.
    2014 Subaru WRX WRB Stage 1
    Stink-Eye Mob # 1.618

    Previous Vehicles: 2010 Subaru Impreza 2.5i; 1997 Ford Mustang Cobra; 1998 Audi A4 1.8T; 1995 Ford Mustang
    A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster. - Jeremy Clarkson

  7. #6
    Registered User jsantos1082's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    River Edge, NJ
    Posts
    467
    Quote Originally Posted by JimboWRX View Post
    Just got done with the bushing and SPT short shifter lever install on my 2013 WRX. Total time for bushings and shifter lever install: one hour. Took off the heat shield and unplugged the O2 sensor to remove the interference. Made the install much easier.

    Observations: Front bushing install: There is no metal bushing that runs through the front bushing like the STI. Also, there's no notch in the washer, but there is a raised edge on the bolt that mates with the washer. This catches the nut upon tightening and results in the clearance you see in the bushings. It appears that the Kartboy front bushing stack might be slightly narrower than the OEM front bushing. I've read numerous threads on front shifter bushing installs on the WRX and they share the same observation regarding the gap. I don't think it affects the function of the front bushing or shifting for that matter.

    Rear Bushing install: The rear bushing needed some lithium grease on the link and bolting it in was a PITA, but if you start threading the bolt on one side and then thread the bolt on the other side, it will catch. Just takes some patience.

    Overall, the throw is definitely shorter than stock (maybe not as short as the Kartboy shifter, but I prefer the height of the stock lever). The shifts feel notchier and solid. It's not rubbery and vague anymore. Funny that I don't hear the transmission NVH that everybody complains about following bushing install, but then again, I am running a Nameless Catback with 5" mufflers and resonator.

    im about to do this tomorrow. When you removed the o2 sensor, did you remove it with a crescent wrench or a tool especially made to remove an o2 sensor? or it doesnt matter. I read somewhere that using a regular crescent wrench is not good for the 02 sensor. correct me if im wrong. Ive been putting this job off for a year, i think its time to finally install these bushings haha.
    JOE
    2013 WRX DGM
    Stink Eye Mob #82

  8. #7
    Registered User JimboWRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    246
    Quote Originally Posted by jsantos1082 View Post
    im about to do this tomorrow. When you removed the o2 sensor, did you remove it with a crescent wrench or a tool especially made to remove an o2 sensor? or it doesnt matter. I read somewhere that using a regular crescent wrench is not good for the 02 sensor. correct me if im wrong. Ive been putting this job off for a year, i think its time to finally install these bushings haha.
    No. Don't physically remove the O2 sensor. Just disconnect the wiring harness from the O2 sensor and remove the heat shield.

    Once you get the heat shield removed, you'll get plenty of access to the front and rear shifter bushings.

    Remember, the rear will be the biggest pain. Just go slow, and start the thread on one bolt (enough to catch), then start the other. Otherwise you will cross thread the bolt.

    You will wish you did this mod sooner...trust me on this!

  9. #8
    Registered User jsantos1082's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    River Edge, NJ
    Posts
    467
    Quote Originally Posted by JimboWRX View Post
    No. Don't physically remove the O2 sensor. Just disconnect the wiring harness from the O2 sensor and remove the heat shield.

    Once you get the heat shield removed, you'll get plenty of access to the front and rear shifter bushings.

    Remember, the rear will be the biggest pain. Just go slow, and start the thread on one bolt (enough to catch), then start the other. Otherwise you will cross thread the bolt.

    You will wish you did this mod sooner...trust me on this!
    I'm having trouble with the rear bushing. I can't seem to thread one bolt in. I took your advice by threading one in and then thread the other one in, but second one doesn't seem to go in. Could it be that I put in the rear bushing upside down? The way I put it on is that the two holes on the side are more towards the ground. Pls help
    JOE
    2013 WRX DGM
    Stink Eye Mob #82

  10. #9
    Registered User JimboWRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    246
    Okay, so when I say start to thread one bolt at a time, I mean very slightly...just enough to catch. That will allow the second bolt to be threaded. The urethane is the culprit...it doesn't give. But with patience, it will go in. If you thread the first bolt too much, the second bolt will not thread. I know it's a PITA...but it will go in.

    As far as the orientation, it should go in like this:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	KAR KB-003-REAR_1.jpg 
Views:	76 
Size:	131.6 KB 
ID:	140737

    Hope this helps!

  11. #10
    Registered User jsantos1082's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    River Edge, NJ
    Posts
    467
    Quote Originally Posted by JimboWRX View Post
    Okay, so when I say start to thread one bolt at a time, I mean very slightly...just enough to catch. That will allow the second bolt to be threaded. The urethane is the culprit...it doesn't give. But with patience, it will go in. If you thread the first bolt too much, the second bolt will not thread. I know it's a PITA...but it will go in.

    As far as the orientation, it should go in like this:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	KAR KB-003-REAR_1.jpg 
Views:	76 
Size:	131.6 KB 
ID:	140737
    Hope this helps!
    Thanks for the reply man, right now my car is in the driveway on ramps and it's not driveable because i couldn't finish this install lol. ok good i have the bushing in the right orientation according to that picture, the hole in the middle is more towards the car. I literally spent 2 hours trying to thread those two bolts. I just couldn't get the second one to go in properly. but i see where my mistake is now. i threaded the first bolt in halfway then tried to thread the second one. I will open up shifter tomorrow so i can take the whole shifter stabilizer bar out. maybe that will be easier to install the two bolts without the bar being attached. Once the rear bushing is secured, i can slide the bar back into the hole (after i apply grease of course). I read that from other forums. I will give it a try. I hope it's not that cold tomorrow.
    JOE
    2013 WRX DGM
    Stink Eye Mob #82

  12. #11
    Registered User JimboWRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    246
    Quote Originally Posted by jsantos1082 View Post
    Thanks for the reply man, right now my car is in the driveway on ramps and it's not driveable because i couldn't finish this install lol. ok good i have the bushing in the right orientation according to that picture, the hole in the middle is more towards the car. I literally spent 2 hours trying to thread those two bolts. I just couldn't get the second one to go in properly. but i see where my mistake is now. i threaded the first bolt in halfway then tried to thread the second one. I will open up shifter tomorrow so i can take the whole shifter stabilizer bar out. maybe that will be easier to install the two bolts without the bar being attached. Once the rear bushing is secured, i can slide the bar back into the hole (after i apply grease of course). I read that from other forums. I will give it a try. I hope it's not that cold tomorrow.
    Yeah, threading the bolt half way will not work. When I installed mine, I wasted about 10 minutes trying different ways, until I just threaded it just enough for it to catch. Then I started the other. Everything went smooth after that.

    Removing the bar may help with access, but the issue with threading the two bolts have more to do with the fact that the urethane bushing doesn't give or flex (like the softer, marshmallow-ey OEM bushing).

  13. #12
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    142
    Can you use a different type of grease other than Lithium? Such as the suspension grease that's used for sway bar bushings?

    Also, do you need to grease the front bushings at all?
    2013 SWP WRX Limited Sedan - SOLD

    2013 Dodge Charger SRT8 - White

  14. #13
    Registered User JimboWRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    246
    Quote Originally Posted by blknylw View Post
    Can you use a different type of grease other than Lithium? Such as the suspension grease that's used for sway bar bushings?

    Also, do you need to grease the front bushings at all?
    I used some lithium grease to facilitate the installation of the rear bushing onto the linkage. Not sure if suspension grease will attack the urethane. If you use grease, I would stick with lithium grease.

  15. #14
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    PNW -WA STATE - rainy side
    Posts
    381
    I Support ClubWRX
    Silicone grease or boat trailer bearing grease is fine with urethane bushings.

  16. #15
    Registered User jsantos1082's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    River Edge, NJ
    Posts
    467
    Quote Originally Posted by JimboWRX View Post
    Yeah, threading the bolt half way will not work. When I installed mine, I wasted about 10 minutes trying different ways, until I just threaded it just enough for it to catch. Then I started the other. Everything went smooth after that.

    Removing the bar may help with access, but the issue with threading the two bolts have more to do with the fact that the urethane bushing doesn't give or flex (like the softer, marshmallow-ey OEM bushing).
    I removed the bar from the rear bushing. I found it easier to thread the two bolts that way. Took me 2 mins to thread both. Then I slid the bar back into the bushing and tightened the two bolts. You are right, This install was such a PITA if you haven't done it before. I was so relieved. The front bushing has some play in it after install, about 5mm of gap. Is that normal? I tightened the bolt already. I think it wil be ok.
    JOE
    2013 WRX DGM
    Stink Eye Mob #82

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •