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This is a discussion on 2013 WRX, really high clutch engagement within the Transmission & AWD forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; So I just picked up my 3rd Subaru, it's a 13 DGM Hatch, I absolutely love it. After spending some ...

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    Registered User Dgmftw's Avatar
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    2013 WRX, really high clutch engagement

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    So I just picked up my 3rd Subaru, it's a 13 DGM Hatch, I absolutely love it. After spending some time with the car I've realized that the clutch is engaging really high, similarly to how a vehicle with a shot clutch would feel, the clutch grips hard etc. I took it to the dealership and naturally they said nothing is wrong, upon review of the manual i noticed that it states there should be some free play, i had none whatsoever. so I took it upon myself to get under the dash and attempt to adjust it myself.

    I removed the accelerator pedal, disconnected the pedal linkage and turned the rod clockwise 360 degrees and adjusted the switch appropriately, feels much much better now, i can feel the free play as well.just thought I would share my experience, if anyone feels that what I did can cause harm please let me know!

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    I had the same "issue" when i got my new 2012 SWP WRX hatch. I did exactly what you did. Adjustment should be done very little increments. (This is only free play adjustment)
    Feel much better now....I felt it was engaging way too high too..I know many people had this issue...

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    zax
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    Subaru clutch engagement is known to be a little vague. Furthermore, the clutch throw on WRXs has always been unnecessarily long. I can't be certain, but there is likely nothing wrong with your car. There are ways to remedy the engagement zone... I for one, have installed one of these (a clutch stop): IxizConcept

    These can be with parts from Home Depot; there are a multitude of threads on how to do this.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikie13
    I feel bad paying sloots for the labor I can do myself, but at least it feels better

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    Registered User Dgmftw's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, mru77 you shortened it and then adjusted the switch down some to compensate yeah? Im thinking about bleeding the clutch as well just to ensure its perfect, i see the clutch master has its own bleeder valve do i bleed both the master and the slave? also where is the slave located at

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dgmftw View Post
    Thanks guys, mru77 you shortened it and then adjusted the switch down some to compensate yeah? Im thinking about bleeding the clutch as well just to ensure its perfect, i see the clutch master has its own bleeder valve do i bleed both the master and the slave? also where is the slave located at
    I did not have to adjust the switch. If I remember correct I turn the "fork" (or the rod) counterclockwise about 3/4 of a turn and it gave me enough free play. I tried 1.25 ot turns, 1 full turn and settled at 3/4 of a turn was the best for me. I marked the "rod" with a marker to see omuch I was turning. I loosned the nut that holds the rod in place and used pliers to turn the rod.

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