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This is a discussion on Shifter bushing whine within the Transmission & AWD forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by 4byfour After reading all the replies I'm a little more relieved to know that my 300 mile ...

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4byfour View Post
    After reading all the replies I'm a little more relieved to know that my 300 mile wrx's whine is normal. Sort of sounds like a supercharger whine, I can't imagine what it would be with the aftermarket bushings.
    While I didn't change the shifter bushings (I have the factory-installed OEM short shifter), I did change the Group N trans mount with the crossmember bushings. Now I have just slightly more of that second-gear whine, which I absolutely love (even more)!!
    2011 Subaru WRX 5-Door
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  3. #17
    Registered User WRXpa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by T0rque View Post
    Maybe I am used to it from all my other cars but I think you guys are f-ing nuts... I dont hear jack poop... I lubed the crap out of them.. no wine
    I lubed the crap out of mine too, and there is definitely a whine in 1st and 2nd...not that I'm complaining though. I like it. I tell people "this is not a quiet car" when they go for their first ride.
    I have a low Reynolds number

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  4. #18
    Registered User deepseastetson's Avatar
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    I think the newer Subies are more prone to whine. I have a 02 and installed the Kartboy front and rear with no whine at all. added the group n tranny mount and i got a very faint whine when cruising on the highway.

  5. #19
    Registered User Ingen's Avatar
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    Has anyone tried installing the shifter bushings and doing some dynamat on the transmission tunnel? I know it's vibrating more or less the whole car (since all the sheet metal is connected) but I wonder if dampening the vibration at the source could help? I get my car next week, and on the test drive I took I noticed a bit of slop in the shifter that might take some getting used to... or fixing

  6. #20
    Registered User WRXpa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ingen View Post
    Has anyone tried installing the shifter bushings and doing some dynamat on the transmission tunnel? I know it's vibrating more or less the whole car (since all the sheet metal is connected) but I wonder if dampening the vibration at the source could help? I get my car next week, and on the test drive I took I noticed a bit of slop in the shifter that might take some getting used to... or fixing
    Funny you should ask...I spent this past weekend soundproofing the floor and tranny tunnel. Dynamat isn't what you'd want to put on the floor. Its for vibration dampening, not soundproofing. I used Frost King Duct Insulation (the foam one, not fiberglass). Its much cheaper than a lot of the alternatives ($18 a roll) and lots of people have used it in the past. I have yet to compare the sound levels, but will let you know when I do later today. Here's a shot..
    I have a low Reynolds number

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  7. #21
    Registered User WRXpa's Avatar
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    And BTW, plan on installing a short shift lever and front/rear shifter bushings. The stock shifter is pretty terrible. Once the aftermarket parts loosen up, the shifting is butter!
    I have a low Reynolds number

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  8. #22
    Registered User Ingen's Avatar
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    My car is coming with the STI short throw (I didn't really want it, tbh, but since orders are closed it took a while to find a car anyway - I'm hoping that the excess cost of the accessories I didn't want will allow me to negotiate to get the ones I DO want for free)

    I thought about doing the front shifter bushings from kartboy and using the STI rear bushing (hard rubber). I remember reading the STI one is a lot quieter?

    Also, dang good job on the insulation! How long did it take you to strip all that? Would I have to take time off work?

  9. #23
    Registered User irvin787878's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WRXpa View Post
    Funny you should ask...I spent this past weekend soundproofing the floor and tranny tunnel. Dynamat isn't what you'd want to put on the floor. Its for vibration dampening, not soundproofing. I used Frost King Duct Insulation (the foam one, not fiberglass). Its much cheaper than a lot of the alternatives ($18 a roll) and lots of people have used it in the past. I have yet to compare the sound levels, but will let you know when I do later today. Here's a shot..
    Interested in hearing your review on this. Especially if there is any effect on heat temps. How much did you use? Looks like you did a good job on it tho.
    Last edited by irvin787878; 05-14-2012 at 08:31 AM.
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  10. #24
    Registered User Axex's Avatar
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    Nice! I did this same thing with my '88 mustang. Hoping to get it a little quieter and smoother, but not sure if it will actually work. That thing is LOUD. I wanted to test it out there and see if it would be worth doing on the WRX. Please let us know what you think! My stang is still getting a few things done to it before it is back together so I don't have much of a verdict yet.

  11. #25
    Registered User WRXpa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Axex View Post
    Nice! I did this same thing with my '88 mustang. Hoping to get it a little quieter and smoother, but not sure if it will actually work. That thing is LOUD. I wanted to test it out there and see if it would be worth doing on the WRX. Please let us know what you think! My stang is still getting a few things done to it before it is back together so I don't have much of a verdict yet.
    I used an ultra-high tech cell phone app to compare the db levels before and after. Before it was averaging 70 db. After is averaging 68 db at a 65 mph cruise. That's pretty decent improvement considering its a log scale. The car is definitely quieter, especially the trans. There was NO insulation after the shifter. Pretty pathetic.

    Now I can tell that most of the noise is coming from the doors, so they'll be done before too long. Its not shown in the picture, but I also hit the pillars and went a little further up the front foot wells.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ingen View Post
    My car is coming with the STI short throw (I didn't really want it, tbh, but since orders are closed it took a while to find a car anyway - I'm hoping that the excess cost of the accessories I didn't want will allow me to negotiate to get the ones I DO want for free)

    I thought about doing the front shifter bushings from kartboy and using the STI rear bushing (hard rubber). I remember reading the STI one is a lot quieter?

    Also, dang good job on the insulation! How long did it take you to strip all that? Would I have to take time off work?
    The STi bushing is better than stock, but not as stiff as aftermarket. I've read people are happy with the STi rear bushing and an aftermarket front bushing.

    EDIT: It took 1.5 days in total. I started the project with the intention of installing an amp under the seat. Next thing I knew, both seats were out along with the entire carpet "tub". It wouldn't have take so long if I wasn't running wire as well.
    Last edited by WRXpa; 05-14-2012 at 11:21 AM.
    I have a low Reynolds number

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  12. #26
    Registered User Ingen's Avatar
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    That is an impressive reduction! Did all the carpet and everything line back up when you were finished? Any thoughts on how durable it might be in the long run?

    I like that you're doing this and I would definitely consider it on my car, esp if I ever do any stereo work (which I intend to)

  13. #27
    Registered User WRXpa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ingen View Post
    That is an impressive reduction! Did all the carpet and everything line back up when you were finished? Any thoughts on how durable it might be in the long run?

    I like that you're doing this and I would definitely consider it on my car, esp if I ever do any stereo work (which I intend to)
    Getting it all to line up right took some pulling and tugging, but it wasn't too bad. I ended up re-constructing an entire side of the car before realizing I screwed up a panel in the beginning. But, so goes it. Live and learn! I would definitely recommend it if you've got $60 to $100 to spend on making the car more civilized for daily commuting.

    There's something about taking the car apart and putting it back together that gives a sense of appreciation for mods you've done.
    I have a low Reynolds number

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  14. #28
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    I used dynamat and it took a great deal of the noise out of my car. I actually put the group N trans mount back in after the dynamat and though it is a touch louder.. its not unpleasant at all. I'm planning some ccf sound deadener over the top of the dynamat but not for a little while yet.

    fyi, dynamat does work quite nicely to take the high pitched buzzes out of the car. Especially in the hatch area. As mentioned there isn't jack squat for sound deadening from the middle of the front seats to the very rear of the car. NOTHING. Its a rattle can, so any/all measures you can make will have a positive affect.
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  15. #29
    Registered User Ingen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WRXpa View Post
    Getting it all to line up right took some pulling and tugging, but it wasn't too bad. I ended up re-constructing an entire side of the car before realizing I screwed up a panel in the beginning. But, so goes it. Live and learn! I would definitely recommend it if you've got $60 to $100 to spend on making the car more civilized for daily commuting.

    There's something about taking the car apart and putting it back together that gives a sense of appreciation for mods you've done.
    Do you think that it would be smart to do this while also doing the shifter bushings? I figured I could take everything apart and do all the work at once. Also, how do you feel your car compares to the original noise level at stock with OEM bushings?

  16. #30
    Registered User WRXpa's Avatar
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    Yeah, if you can do it all at the same time, absolutely; do it. You need to remove the console anyway to do the shifter (if your also swapping the shift lever w/ an AM short shifter). However, you don't NEED to remove it to do only the shifter bushings. But, I found it much easier to just remove the shift lever (need to take out the console), which frees up the shift linkage to be removed as well. The bushings are easier to install if you can take out the linkage. Otherwise, its super tight in there.

    There's definitely an increase in tranny noise with the aftermarket bushings. Its only annoying when engine braking in traffic. The car sounds like its broken sometimes! But that's mainly because there's no freaking insulation on half the tranny tunnel. Its not as bad since adding the duct wrap.
    I have a low Reynolds number

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