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This is a discussion on Alignment basics within the Suspension & Wheels forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; To adjust for caster- you have to have the camber plates orientated canted (my wagon thread shows a pic of ...

  1. #106
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    To adjust for caster- you have to have the camber plates orientated canted (my wagon thread shows a pic of what I'm talking about)- in the "normal" position they only add (or subtract) camber.

    If you have camber plates up front- you won't need camber bolts in the rear IMO- they will be in the -1.5ish range and if your getting -2.0+ degrees of camber up front- no need to lower the rear camber- and it's one less thing for them to mess w/.

    Insure the plates are maxed out (and caster cross is close to 0) and have them adjust cross camber w/ the oe bolts.

    If you have sedan your front endlinks have a small allen head in them that has to be "captured" or they won't come off- it just keeps spinning).

    235 width will fit w/ the sedan no problem- it may necessitate rolling the fenders w/ a wagon.
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

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  3. #107
    Registered User wrx wagone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by efmd3 View Post
    max out front negative camber with NO cross camber
    either 0 toe or .01 toe in for the front
    add some caster, and again NO cross caster
    set rear camber to -1.0
    either 0 toe or if i decide to toe in the front, .01 toe out in the rear.

    am i missing anything, or will i find this to be a suitable set up?
    Yes, caster is not adjustable.

    Also 0.01 anything = 0 for the purposes of an alignment. Just ask the guy to get zero toe all around.
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  4. #108
    Registered User efmd3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Sky WRX View Post
    To adjust for caster- you have to have the camber plates orientated canted (my wagon thread shows a pic of what I'm talking about)- in the "normal" position they only add (or subtract) camber.

    If you have camber plates up front- you won't need camber bolts in the rear IMO- they will be in the -1.5ish range and if your getting -2.0+ degrees of camber up front- no need to lower the rear camber- and it's one less thing for them to mess w/.

    Insure the plates are maxed out (and caster cross is close to 0) and have them adjust cross camber w/ the oe bolts.

    If you have sedan your front endlinks have a small allen head in them that has to be "captured" or they won't come off- it just keeps spinning).

    235 width will fit w/ the sedan no problem- it may necessitate rolling the fenders w/ a wagon.
    can we change your title to SUSPENSION GOD! ?
    i read the dang factory service manual for everything i do to my car yet i missed the hex key...

    anyway, the ALK adds caster does it not?????? and i should save the $$$ and not fool with rear camber.
    ok so i'll leave the camber plates in the 'normal' position and tune in...say2.0 degrees neg camber then that should give me a good bit of turn in with roughly 1.3 degrees neg camber in the rear...
    terriffic, i guess my only other question is what wheels to buy...16x7's or 17x7.5's...?

  5. #109
    Registered User efmd3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrx wagone View Post
    Yes, caster is not adjustable.

    Also 0.01 anything = 0 for the purposes of an alignment. Just ask the guy to get zero toe all around.
    oops, i meant 1/10th rather than 1/100th

  6. #110
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by efmd3 View Post
    can we change your title to SUSPENSION GOD! ?
    i read the dang factory service manual for everything i do to my car yet i missed the hex key...

    anyway, the ALK adds caster does it not?????? and i should save the $$$ and not fool with rear camber.
    ok so i'll leave the camber plates in the 'normal' position and tune in...say2.0 degrees neg camber then that should give me a good bit of turn in with roughly 1.3 degrees neg camber in the rear...
    terriffic, i guess my only other question is what wheels to buy...16x7's or 17x7.5's...?
    your not the only that missed the hex key believe me

    ALK does add ~ .5 degrees of caster (but also reudces the anti-lift/anti-dive the factory added)

    -2.0 should be plenty for most duties, leave rear camber as is

    Last question would be best answered in a seperate thread
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

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    First off great sticky and thanks for all the advice.
    I decided to get my 04 wrx wagon aligned today. Yesterday I put on my new wheels 17x8 with 225 45 tires. The car before had a slight pull to the left.
    My specs b4:
    Camber:
    FL: 0.0 FR: -0.1
    RL: -1.0 RR: -1.5

    Toe:
    FL: .20 FR: -.20
    RL: .05 RR: -.10

    Now
    Camber:
    FL: -0.1 FR: -0.3
    RL: -1.0 RR: -1.5

    Toe:
    FL: 0.0 FR: 0.0
    RL: .05 RR: -.10

    I told the guy to get max neg. camber in the front, which would be -1.0 - -1.5. If there are any problems just loosen the lower strut bolt. They said they tried loosening them and couldn't get it.
    I just realized it says sedan not wagon on the report. Maybe that could have given me issues? But the specs on page 1 seem to be pretty similar. I have a very slight pull to the left which isn't that bad, I think I'm just being anal.
    Is it ok for the camber to be off from side to side or should they be identical?

    Thanks,
    Tony

  8. #112
    Registered User BlkWRXWag's Avatar
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    That's because they should be adjusting camber on the upper strut bolt, not the lower one. Take it back.
    -Max.

    06 STU STI
    2006 STU Pro Solo Natl. Champ.
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  9. #113
    Registered User efmd3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ImprezaMeWith View Post
    First off great sticky and thanks for all the advice.
    I decided to get my 04 wrx wagon aligned today. Yesterday I put on my new wheels 17x8 with 225 45 tires. The car before had a slight pull to the left.
    My specs b4:
    Camber:
    FL: 0.0 FR: -0.1
    RL: -1.0 RR: -1.5

    Toe:
    FL: .20 FR: -.20
    RL: .05 RR: -.10

    Now
    Camber:
    FL: -0.1 FR: -0.3
    RL: -1.0 RR: -1.5

    Toe:
    FL: 0.0 FR: 0.0
    RL: .05 RR: -.10

    I told the guy to get max neg. camber in the front, which would be -1.0 - -1.5. If there are any problems just loosen the lower strut bolt. They said they tried loosening them and couldn't get it.
    I just realized it says sedan not wagon on the report. Maybe that could have given me issues? But the specs on page 1 seem to be pretty similar. I have a very slight pull to the left which isn't that bad, I think I'm just being anal.
    Is it ok for the camber to be off from side to side or should they be identical?

    Thanks,
    Tony
    shouldn't your max camber in the front be closer to -1.3???
    anyway, I went to the alignment shop and they wouldn't do it because its lowered now
    so now i'm on KYB AGX struts and eibach springs.
    its lowered 1.3 inches in the front and 1.0 in the rear.
    should i get different springs to come back up a bit or will i be OK this low? (i plan on having fenders rolled and getting 8.5" wide wheels with 245's for the track and stockers for the dirt)
    also, knowing all the above, what camber can i look for in the front? still 1.5ish or will the lowering cause it to become more positive?

    BTW i did find a shop who will do custom specs.

  10. #114
    Registered User BlkWRXWag's Avatar
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    Lowering will get your more negative camber, but not much.
    -Max.

    06 STU STI
    2006 STU Pro Solo Natl. Champ.
    www.zzyzxmotorsports.com

  11. #115
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    I called them and they said they loosened both bolts. At least I have a 6 month warrenty, I'll go back in a few days.
    Thanks for the input,
    Tony

  12. #116
    Registered User BlkWRXWag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ImprezaMeWith View Post
    I called them and they said they loosened both bolts. At least I have a 6 month warrenty, I'll go back in a few days.
    Thanks for the input,
    Tony
    It's not just a matter of loosening the top bolt, you have to turn it a specific amount to increase/decrease the camber.
    -Max.

    06 STU STI
    2006 STU Pro Solo Natl. Champ.
    www.zzyzxmotorsports.com

  13. #117
    Registered User efmd3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlkWRXWag View Post
    Lowering will get your more negative camber, but not much.
    i could have sworn inverted macp setups camber goes positive as the strut compresses...

  14. #118
    Registered User BlkWRXWag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by efmd3 View Post
    i could have sworn inverted macp setups camber goes positive as the strut compresses...
    Nope.
    -Max.

    06 STU STI
    2006 STU Pro Solo Natl. Champ.
    www.zzyzxmotorsports.com

  15. #119
    Registered User efmd3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlkWRXWag View Post
    Nope.
    OK, so what camber #'s should i look for?

  16. #120
    Registered User BlkWRXWag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by efmd3 View Post
    OK, so what camber #'s should i look for?
    Probably about -1.3.
    -Max.

    06 STU STI
    2006 STU Pro Solo Natl. Champ.
    www.zzyzxmotorsports.com

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