Alignment basics - Page 4
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This is a discussion on Alignment basics within the Suspension & Wheels forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; thanks...

  1. #46
    Registered User AnotherLevel's Avatar
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    thanks

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  3. #47
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    Street Setup

    For a good medium for performance and good tire wear how does this look?
    between -1.3 and -1.5 front camber 0 front toe and 1/32" to 1/16" toe in the rear.

    How does that look?
    06 Black WRX (Drunk)

  4. #48
    Registered User BlkWRXWag's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kn0bby8
    For a good medium for performance and good tire wear how does this look?
    between -1.3 and -1.5 front camber 0 front toe and 1/32" to 1/16" toe in the rear.

    How does that look?
    I would go zero toe for the rear. Toe in on rear will be of no use for performance. Zero or a little toe out is what you want.
    -Max.

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  5. #49
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    agreed ^ a little toe in might help a smidge in braking and give you a little high speed stability, but will hinder you in cornering and also add to tire wear.
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  6. #50
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    Hows this look for an adjustment?

    -1.5 front camber with 0 toe <----Front
    0 toe <-----Rear

    If I were to purchase the camber bolts for the rear what camber should I use? Same as front?

    I appreciate all your help but please keep in mind this is my daily driver and i don't want to be replacing tires every month.

    Thanks
    Steve
    06 Black WRX (Drunk)

  7. #51
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    Without plates you won't probably get -1.5 in the front- I'd settle for the max they can get w/ the oe bolts- should be -1.1 to -1.3 ballpark- insure they keep cross camber close to 0.

    In the rear, personally, for a daily driver- I'd leave camber alone- it'll be in the -1.5 range.
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  8. #52
    Registered User WRXdriftR's Avatar
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    this is one sweet thread. Thanks Big Sky!

    my latest alignment with STi spec-C springs, Cusco 22mm RSB, Kartboy Rear endlinks, whiteline steering rack bushings:

    front camber: -1.0* both sides
    rear camber: -1.1 both sides
    front caster: 2.8/3.0
    front toe: -0.01* both sides
    rear toe: 0.01/ -0.01

    turn in is alot nicer now, noticeably less understeer
    WRB 2004 Rex. COBB Stage2 + Loudness
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  9. #53
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    ^ good alignment guy- remember to bring him some donuts It's hard to find god alignment guys willing to take the time to get things that close (but well worth the effort to find them )
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  10. #54
    Registered User TheFugitiveMind's Avatar
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    so i just installed my Ver.8 JDM STi Struts and Springs and i know i need an alignment..and it looks like it dropped me an 1" all the way around

    however before i removed the stock suspension...i marked the front camber bolts and lined them up when i installed the new JDM suspension. does anyone have any ideas or guesses on what my numbers are?? i can visually tell that the camber is moderately negative.

    and am i correct that without camber bolts in the rear i cannot adjust camber???

    and does the swaybar have to do anything with the alignment?????


    THANKS ALOT!!!!!!!!!!

    ive learned a lot about alignment in this thread.!!!!!
    Last edited by TheFugitiveMind; 02-08-2006 at 11:26 PM.

  11. #55
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    If you did a good job of marking/orientating you bolts- you should be relatively clsoe to what your previous camber was.

    correct- no adj in the rear for camber

    sway bars won't effect your alignment #'s
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  12. #56
    Moderator   Sasquatch's Avatar
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    I seem to remember reading recently that adjustable rear camber bolts are a no no in STX?

    Factory adjustment ranges only in alignments. T / F?
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  13. #57
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    no they are fine in the rear- only caveat is you can have only one way of adjusting (other than stock adj)- so you couldn't run camber bolts and camber paltes in the rear. Same for the front you've got your oe upper camber bolts- you can ad lower aftermarket ones or camber plates, but not both.

    Adjustment is whatever you can get- I competed against a couple of guys last year (WRX sedan) that were running -4.0 degrees of camber!
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  14. #58
    Moderator   Sasquatch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Sky WRX
    no they are fine in the rear- only caveat is you can have only one way of adjusting (other than stock adj)- so you couldn't run camber bolts and camber paltes in the rear. Same for the front you've got your oe upper camber bolts- you can ad lower aftermarket ones or camber plates, but not both.

    Adjustment is whatever you can get- I competed against a couple of guys last year (WRX sedan) that were running -4.0 degrees of camber!
    OK, thanks. Still not sure if I am going with front plates this year.
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  15. #59
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    just wanna add, i just aligned my car tonight and was able to achieve as much as -2.7 degree's with SPC camber bolts replacing the lower strut bolt in front. i did the alignment myself, so i know its good!

    i dunno if this was covered, but you should realize that drive wheels tend to toe in upon acceleration... and since we have ALL WHEEL DRIVE, all wheels will toe in upon acceleration. that said, zero toe resulted in "toe-in wear" on my car... so i'd toe it out some to get even wear. of course i'm running an aftermarket wheel/ tire set up.

    this is something to consider if you have an aftermarket wheel/ tire set up. a properly trained alignment technician can work with you to find out the proper settings... of course, it will take some time and a few trips to correct find the best wearing settings.
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  16. #60
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    rotated tires

    Just bought a new '06 STI. The car pulled to the left--and I am not talking about torque steer.

    The dealer "swapped tires left to right" and this seems to have eliminated the problem.

    My question: Didn't I just put a defective tire on the other side of my car? Should I insist on new tires if it was a tire problem causing the pull?

    I would be grateful for any advice and experiences from the greatest group of car owners on the PLANET!

    Thanks everyone.

    David

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