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This is a discussion on Alignment basics within the Suspension & Wheels forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; i just bought a new toy/tool that will help u to do your own alignments, its called a caster/camber guage ...

  1. #16
    Registered User Denali's Avatar
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    i just bought a new toy/tool that will help u to do your own alignments, its called a caster/camber guage i got mine from www.longacreracing.com was $130 and it has a magnet u so u can stick it to ur wheel it has four levels in it that will tell u ur caster and camber readings heres a pic

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  3. #17
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    Nice- they also make toe plates as well. Would be advantageous (especially a tinkerer) to do your own alignments.
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  4. #18
    Ian
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    Do you guys reccommened or what do you think of the Hochkis rear alighnment kit, is it over kill or would the rear alighnment bolts you can get be better? I want to be able to get my alighnment and handling perfect for my driving ( street and hard ). I have seen the Hochkis for 350.00 they come both the 4 lower control bars, is it worth it to be able to dial in the suspension in the rear exactaly were you want it?

    Sorry I'm starting to get a little confused with this whole alighnment thing, so any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Ian

  5. #19
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian
    Do you guys reccommened or what do you think of the Hochkis rear alighnment kit, is it over kill or would the rear alighnment bolts you can get be better? I want to be able to get my alighnment and handling perfect for my driving ( street and hard ). I have seen the Hochkis for 350.00 they come both the 4 lower control bars, is it worth it to be able to dial in the suspension in the rear exactaly were you want it?

    Sorry I'm starting to get a little confused with this whole alighnment thing, so any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Ian
    Sounds like adj lateral links. They are nice, but for most camber bolts in the rear will suffice. If you experimenting alot w/ camber/toe in the rear- adj links make sense, if you just want to get to a good setting and forget- camber bolts for the rear.
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  6. #20
    Ian
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    Thank you thats exactly what I wanted to hear. Now which ones do you reccommend I get, I know they are ruffly around 15-30 bucks but is one better than another?

    Again thanks for the help, Ian

  7. #21
    Registered User Wrinkleboi's Avatar
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    i recently signed up for a 3 year, unlimited alignment deal at National Tire and Battery, which is a national chain--it was $140 but they have a $20 coupon out which maybe you can find on their website.
    my car is lowered and i had it set to custom specs and they were cool with it all. although the guy who did my alignment wasnt a pro, he did a decent job and i'm sure he'll get better with the more chances i give him to practice .
    its a great option for me since i will probably be playing with height as well as camber adjustments through the summer.
    bryan

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  8. #22
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian
    Thank you thats exactly what I wanted to hear. Now which ones do you reccommend I get, I know they are ruffly around 15-30 bucks but is one better than another?

    Again thanks for the help, Ian
    I used the Whiteline ones, can't speak to the others.
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  9. #23
    Registered User QuickSilver's Avatar
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    great summary Big Sky.

    To add to the discussion, what are teh benefits of corner weighing when you have aftermarket coilovers?

    I just had the tein flex installed and heard corner weighing is a good idea.

    thanks.
    '02 Plat. Wagon, Manual

  10. #24
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    Corner weighting is beneficial (you must have ride height adjustability to do it) as it balances your chassis- some compare it to a chair w/ four legs- you want them balanced.

    Essentially your evening out the cross weights- you do this by changing the ride heights incrementally (assuming your very close to the ride height you want already) and reweighing. Your not trying to get the front and rear balanced ie 50:50- can't be done w/ our cars, rather the weight of the front right X the left rear = front left X the rigth rear. This is done w/ the driver's weight (co- driver as well if you use one) and the normal weight of fuel, etc.

    Quick example (3,000 lb car for example) left front weighs 1000 lbs, right front 800 lbs, left rear 600 lbs, right rear 600 lbs

    total weight on front tires 1800 lbs, total weight on rear tires 1200 lbs- total weight 3,000 lbs.

    percent weight on front 60%
    percent weight on rear 40%

    total weight on right tires 800+600 = 1400 lbs
    total weight on left tires 1000 +600= 1600 lbs

    now we compute the ideal weight for each tire
    - right front 60 X 1400/ 100 = 840
    - right rear 40 X 1400/100 = 560
    - left front 60 X 1600 = 960
    - left rear 40 X 1600 = 640

    if you multipy left front X right rear = 537600
    now right front X left rear=537600

    You'll notice that we changed each tire weight by 40lbs (up or down) and we "did" this by carefully rasing/lowering ride heights at each corner.

    Big Sky
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  11. #25
    Registered User QuickSilver's Avatar
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    OK...I understand what's involved now. Thanks.

    I'm guessing that this is almost purely for the autoXer, since in most scenarios, you won't have consistent gas tank weight and passenger weight and what nots in the car.

    Would it be accurate to say that the gains from something like that for a mainly street driven car would be insignificant?
    '02 Plat. Wagon, Manual

  12. #26
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    I would say it's much more important to get ride heights accurate as well as a good alignment, corner weighting for a street driven car is probably overkill.
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  13. #27
    Moderator   Sasquatch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Sky WRX
    For a good "street" setup, camber in the front from -1.0 - -1.5 (achieved w/ the oem bolts) and camber in the rear from-1.0 (must have camber bolts/plates to achieve this) to oem -1.3, w/ 0 toe is a very good all-around setup.

    If autox/track days start entering the mix then increasing front camber via plates should be considered, as increasing caster.

    Toe I would only change if you know exactly what you want and only after trying 0 first,

    Big Sky
    Should the front and rear camber specs match? Thanks!
    Last edited by Sasquatch; 03-12-2005 at 04:27 PM.

  14. #28
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 04.SPT.WRX
    Should the front and rear camber specs match? Thanks!
    For street steup w/o the use of camber bolts, it would be a good setup- you should see roughly -1.3 front/-1.3 rear- give or take a few tenths.

    For a more competitive setup, more camber up front to rear is usually prefered. To do this either takes camber bolts in the rear (to add some positive camber) or camber (camber/caster) plates up front to increase camber over what the front eccentric bolts give.

    Big Sky
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  15. #29
    Moderator   Sasquatch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Sky WRX
    For street steup w/o the use of camber bolts, it would be a good setup- you should see roughly -1.3 front/-1.3 rear- give or take a few tenths.

    For a more competitive setup, more camber up front to rear is usually prefered. To do this either takes camber bolts in the rear (to add some positive camber) or camber (camber/caster) plates up front to increase camber over what the front eccentric bolts give.

    Big Sky
    Thanks! I've just ordered rear camber bolts. Competitive? Just how much negative camber should I dial out of the rear?

  16. #30
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    I'd dial out ~ .3-.5 degrees in the rear, they usually set the front first- I'd shoot for roughly .3 to .5 degrees less than front. -1.3ish/ -0.8- -1.0ish should be pretty nice.
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

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