Alignment basics

[shadowpr]

ah. thanks.

[WrRexgoliath]

I used the camber bolts all the way around on tokiko d-specs shocks and rce yellows. I was able to get -1.7 up front and -1.5 rear 0 toe and is wicked awesome!

[rage-wrx]

I also want to get a custom alignment.But after reading through all the posts I have some questions.I have a 2011 WRX.I have been told that the front camber is adjustable.Does this mean that I do not have to change the lower bolts up front.Also in the rear ,since the camber is not adjustable, do I have to change both the upper & lower bolt?

Also what is better?Stick to the OEM camber bolts or go aftermarket for the bolts I have to change.

[Big Sky WRX]

all WRX's are front camber adjustable, including the 11

the oe camber bolt is the upper of the two strut bolts, folks add a second camber bolt in the lower hole (doesn't replace the oe bolt, instead it's used in conjunction w/ it) to add more neg camber

the 11 has quite a bit more neg camber available than previous models (guys are getting over -2.0 w/ the oe bolts!) so I'd say the oe bolt should be more than sufficient

[rage-wrx]

Thank you for the quick response.I was looking through your recommendations for alignment specs for a DD.So you recommend maxing out the front camber, and -1.3 for the rear with zero toe all around.If I max out the front that would be
-2.0.Would that be too much for a DD?

and I would have to change just the upper bolts in the rear for OE camber bolts?

Also I have a 24mm FSB & a 22mm RSB.

And yes,I am new to this!

[Big Sky WRX]

yes, imo -2.0 would be too much, somewhere in the -1.3 to -1.5 range should be fine, the rear is fixed so you get what you get- as long as the cross (difference between the drivers and passenger side) is close- a 2-3/10th's then I wouldn't worry about

0 toe front/rear

just make sure you get a printout before and after and also that you want the numbers as close as possible (they should be able to get front camber within a couple of tenths of each other easily, toe should be very, very close to 0- a couple of 100ths)

[rage-wrx]

Thank you ,you have been very helpful.The guy I'm going to does work on rally cars so hopefully he knows what he's doing.

[Big Sky WRX]

Thank you ,you have been very helpful.The guy I'm going to does work on rally cars so hopefully he knows what he's doing.

you should be golden then

[A265]

I'm getting my alignment checked next week and if it's off I'll ask for a custom alignment for the first time.

This is my DD, I do AutoX a few times a year (I'll probably run 1-3 events before winter). I'd like to be a bit conservative this year. Do you think -1 front camber would be fine? Most of the time, I just drive normally with the exception of a few hard turns, and those few autox events. Of course I'd go for 0 toe all around and closest rear cross camber as possible.

I have a 2009 WRX, stock suspension.

I forgot to mention, we do get a lot of snow here in winter so I'll probably need to dial down the negative camber for the winter?

[Heide264]

yes, imo -2.0 would be too much, somewhere in the -1.3 to -1.5 range should be fine, the rear is fixed so you get what you get- as long as the cross (difference between the drivers and passenger side) is close- a 2-3/10th's then I wouldn't worry about

0 toe front/rear

just make sure you get a printout before and after and also that you want the numbers as close as possible (they should be able to get front camber within a couple of tenths of each other easily, toe should be very, very close to 0- a couple of 100ths)

If you do very little high way driving compared to local bendy/windy driving, would you still recommend staying around -1.5? My tires on the stock alignment are starting to wear towards the outside inch it appears =/.

[Big Sky WRX]

I'm getting my alignment checked next week and if it's off I'll ask for a custom alignment for the first time.

This is my DD, I do AutoX a few times a year (I'll probably run 1-3 events before winter). I'd like to be a bit conservative this year. Do you think -1 front camber would be fine? Most of the time, I just drive normally with the exception of a few hard turns, and those few autox events. Of course I'd go for 0 toe all around and closest rear cross camber as possible.

I have a 2009 WRX, stock suspension.

I forgot to mention, we do get a lot of snow here in winter so I'll probably need to dial down the negative camber for the winter?

w/ the 09 -1.0 is about the most your going to get up front, so simply have them max out the front (getting even on both sides)

no need to dial it back in the winter, -1.0 is not that much camber

If you do very little high way driving compared to local bendy/windy driving, would you still recommend staying around -1.5? My tires on the stock alignment are starting to wear towards the outside inch it appears =/.

for daily driving I think -1.5 is about as much as you want to go. if you start autoxing or doing track days you can up it knowing that your compromising tire wear; that's where I'd start anyways- you can always dial in more at a later time if you don't think it's enough

the wear to the outside will be move towards the inside when you up the camber

[A265]

Thanks a lot for your help, it's greatly appreciated.

[Heide264]

Thanks a lot for your help, it's greatly appreciated.

+1. Most of what I've read about alignments has been from you. I appreciate it as well.

I will aim for 1.5 then up front and see how it goes. I can always use another alignment as an excuse to add other goodies down the road anyhow =).

[kukusz]

I've read many pages of this thread, and the only thing I want to confirm is whether getting rear camber bolts for my 2012 WRX would be enough to dial in -1 rear and -1.5 front (on oe bolts since they seem to go to -2 on the 2011-12)?

[Big Sky WRX]

unfortunately the new (08+) Imprezas are unable to use camber bolts- they are no longer strut based in the rear

in the front you can use them in conjunction w/ the oe eccentric bolts (if you need camber outside of what they provide)