Alignment basics - Page 14
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This is a discussion on Alignment basics within the Suspension & Wheels forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; nice numbers guy definitely did a good job, I'd be dropping him off a 6 pack of something good...

  1. #196
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    nice numbers guy definitely did a good job, I'd be dropping him off a 6 pack of something good
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

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  3. #197
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    last month I have read maby all of allignment threads about subarus. I ahve 02 JDM wrxwith cusco suspension, c usco camber caster plates. my caster and camber are maxed out from shock heads. I had stock 16" wheels with 1.4F 1.3R cambers, (F and R swaybars are 20mm) and I had awfull understeer. then after installing cusco suspension I had 17" wheels F-2.3 R -1.4 camber , 0 TOE. the car performed well balanced, but with some understeer though.

    now I have made Free caster mode, max camber max caster from plates. I have also installed rear aluminum endlinks and allignment is:

    F-2.5
    R-1.6

    Toe=0 all around.

    looking for track reopen after rebuilding to test settings and whole suspension.

    how do u boys think, didn't I overshoot front camber??? isn't it too much for track use? I think no, but sometimes maby yes. won't I wear inside of tyres faster?
    Last edited by bako; 11-26-2010 at 10:28 AM.

  4. #198
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    -2.5 is fine, tires should be fine w/ 0 toe- rotate them often and keep and eye on them
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  5. #199
    Registered User shadowpr's Avatar
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    I just installed an anti-lift kit, new tie rod ends, rear camber adjustment kit, and toe correction control arms in the rear.

    I'm going to try and get my alignment done tomorrow or wednesday.

    Should I ask them for 0 toe all around, and -1.8 (or so) camber all around?

    this is a dd, but i like taking turns a little hard.

    Are there any other settings that I might want to consider?

  6. #200
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    yes 0 toe f/r, have them max the front neg camber out w/ the oe bolt (you don't mention additional camber bolts or camber plates up front)- this should yield ~ -1.3-ish (give or take a little), have the rear camber set to ~ -1.0

    this should give you pretty good tire wear, while still being able to corner decently
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  7. #201
    Registered User shadowpr's Avatar
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    it's ok to have the rear camber set differently than the front?

  8. #202
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    yup having a little more neg camber up front vs rear, dials out a little understeer
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  9. #203
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    ok. thanks.

    between the new bushings, the alignment and new sway bars, I should have a completely different feeling car.

  10. #204
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    Before:

    Front l/r Rear l/r
    Camber: -.3, -.8 -1.1/-.8
    toe: .67, 1.13 .59, .45

    After:

    Front l/r Rear l/r
    Camber: -.2, -.6 -1.5/-1
    toe: .01, -.01 -.01, .02



    The guy said he couldn't adjust the front camber at all. I thought it should be able to go a bit lower than that.

    And for the rear, they said they couldn't get my whiteline rear camber adjustments to adjust that much.

    Not sure if I'm happy about that.

  11. #205
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    well the guy is flat wrong sadly you have to loosen both the upper and lower bolts on the strut and then turn the top eccentric bolt to adj camber

    he doesn't know how to use camber bolts in the rear- you had better #'s in your before than after

    on a positive note, toe numbers look fine

    I'd take it back or try a new shop

    if you go back to the same shop have him read this first (aftermarket camber bolt installation and adjustment)

    Camber Bolt FAQ and Tutorial - NASIOC

    I'd say (sadly) that probably 1 shop in 10 knows how to properly use camber bolts
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  12. #206
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    yeah. they were nice guys, but I didn't know enough about how teh adjustments should be to explain it to them.

    the numbers aren't bad, but not what i wanted.

    i might just end up waiting several months to get new springs, shocks and camber plates / strut tops.

  13. #207
    Registered User shadowpr's Avatar
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    I just got new springs and shocks, and some whiteline camber bolts for the front. The ride height is lower now. Should I be trying to get the same numbers as before?

  14. #208
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    not sure what your #'s were before, but if you have camber bolts up front might as well take advantage of them

    should be able to get in the -1.5 range up front, camber rear is non adj, 0 toe front/rear
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  15. #209
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    The numbers before I put the new springs/shocks and camber bolts:

    Front l/r Rear l/r
    Camber: -.2, -.6 -1.5/-1
    toe: .01, -.01 -.01, .02

    I also have rear camber adjustment kit. I replaced the stock front camber bolts with teh whiteline ones, but will also bring them with me in case they need to use both to get the camber I want.

    So shoot for -1.5/-1 f/r camber, and 0 toe all around?

  16. #210
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    the WL bolts shouldn't have replaced your oe camber bolts (upper ones)- they are not the right size, they are meant for the lower hole only up front- get that swapped pronto

    yes -1.5 up front would be a good # to shoot for (you'll need both bolts for that is my guess), if you have the ability to adjust rear camber, then yes -1.0 would be just right

    yes 0 toe f/r
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

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