Alignment basics - Page 10
Page 10 of 20 FirstFirst 12345678910111213141516171819 ... LastLast
Results 136 to 150 of 290

This is a discussion on Alignment basics within the Suspension & Wheels forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by Big Sky WRX in the rear you want them in the upper hole. that's what she said....

  1. #136
    Registered User mike_stuewe's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    56
    Quote Originally Posted by Big Sky WRX View Post
    in the rear you want them in the upper hole.
    that's what she said.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    ClubWRX.net
    Advertisements
     

  3. #137
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1
    Nice information about the wheels...carry on with more info.

  4. #138
    Wrinklechops
    Thank the heavens Big Sky this rocks. I am printing all this out so I can take it with me to the shop tomorrow as a cheat-sheet of sorts, lol.

  5. #139
    Wrinklechops
    Quote Originally Posted by Big Sky WRX View Post
    For a good "street" setup, camber in the front from -1.0 - -1.5 (achieved w/ the oem bolts) and camber in the rear from-1.0 (must have camber bolts/plates to achieve this) to oem -1.3, w/ 0 toe is a very good all-around setup.

    If autox/track days start entering the mix then increasing front camber via plates should be considered, as increasing caster.

    Toe I would only change if you know exactly what you want and only after trying 0 first,

    Big Sky
    I want to do this but now I've heard that there's a possibility of "tramlining"? And I live in CO where there's lots of nasty roads..

  6. #140
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Plains of Eastern Montana
    Posts
    12,339
    I Support ClubWRX
    tramlining is more often a symptom of wider wheels/tires, lower offset and stickier tires

    if your worried about it- shoot for -1.0 instead -1.5- that will still be a vast improvement over stock
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  7. #141
    Registered User Nick-subiefan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    20
    This thread is priceless. I read it all from first to last post. Great info and well explained. Thanks a bunch Big Sky WRX.

    After I lowered my car on tanabe gf 210 and installing a whiteline ALK my alignment was way out of wack as you can see:

    Front left/right:
    Camber: -1.0/-0.4
    Caster: 3.5/3.5
    Toe: -0.39/-0.36

    Rear left/right:
    Camber: -1.5/-1.3
    Toe: 0.09/0.06

    After the alignment at the firestone shop:

    Front left/right:
    Camber: -1.0/-1.0
    Caster: 3.5/3.5
    Toe: 0.01/-0.01

    Rear left/right:
    Camber: -1.5/-1.2
    Toe: 0.02/0.02

    I say the guy did a good job.

    Do you think that the 0.3 difference in the rear left/right camber should be a problem?
    I do not have camber bolts in the rear.

    let me know what you guys think.

  8. #142
    Wrinklechops
    Quote Originally Posted by Nick-subiefan View Post
    This thread is priceless. I read it all from first to last post. Great info and well explained. Thanks a bunch Big Sky WRX.

    After I lowered my car on tanabe gf 210 and installing a whiteline ALK my alignment was way out of wack as you can see:

    Front left/right:
    Camber: -1.0/-0.4
    Caster: 3.5/3.5
    Toe: -0.39/-0.36

    Rear left/right:
    Camber: -1.5/-1.3
    Toe: 0.09/0.06

    After the alignment at the firestone shop:

    Front left/right:
    Camber: -1.0/-1.0
    Caster: 3.5/3.5
    Toe: 0.01/-0.01

    Rear left/right:
    Camber: -1.5/-1.2
    Toe: 0.02/0.02

    I say the guy did a good job.

    Do you think that the 0.3 difference in the rear left/right camber should be a problem?
    I do not have camber bolts in the rear.

    let me know what you guys think.
    IMHO, you should have maxed out the factory bolts in the front at least, to -1.5 or as close to it as possible. When I did that I noticed a world of difference. That's good you got your toe at as close to 0 as possible. The rear can't really be adjusted much without bolts anyway, so I wouldn't worry to much about that. If you want, you can always get bolts for the rear.
    But wait, I just re-read this... you have the Whiteline ALK kit and you still couldn't get past -1.5 in the front? Or did you just not want to? I was gonna say I thought that kit alone added like -.5 camber....

  9. #143
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Plains of Eastern Montana
    Posts
    12,339
    I Support ClubWRX
    the ALK should add ~ 0.5 degrees of caster, 3.5 is pretty much oe caster I would have thought it would be closer to 4.0

    I wouldn't sweat the rear camber- your fine

    you might have eeked out a little more camber in the front, but maybe not- I've seen some that -1.0 is close to maxed out
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  10. #144
    Wrinklechops
    Quote Originally Posted by Big Sky WRX View Post
    the ALK should add ~ 0.5 degrees of caster, 3.5 is pretty much oe caster I would have thought it would be closer to 4.0

    I wouldn't sweat the rear camber- your fine

    you might have eeked out a little more camber in the front, but maybe not- I've seen some that -1.0 is close to maxed out
    Yea, my bad BigSky I just checked this:

    Whiteline Anti-Lift Kit (ALK)

    I got my front camber to -1.5 OEM bolts and setup...

  11. #145
    Registered User Nick-subiefan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    20
    Now it's true, maybe I could have dial in some more negative caber in the front but actually (-1.0) was my target. The car is my daily driver (over 1k miles a month) but I'll also be attending as many Auto-X events as I can this summer. I'm running on 17X8 rims and 225/45ZR17 RE-01R tires. I also have 22mm front and 22mm rear adj. sway bar witch in combination with the Tanabe Gf210 reduce the body roll a lot.

    I guess my question here - Do you think that (-1.5) camber or as much negative as I can get it with the stock bolts in the front would be better for my set-up?

    I think I can get the alignment redone anytime since I paid for the lifetime alignment at Firestone.

    Thanks guys for all the input

  12. #146
    Wrinklechops
    Quote Originally Posted by Nick-subiefan View Post
    Now it's true, maybe I could have dial in some more negative caber in the front but actually (-1.0) was my target. The car is my daily driver (over 1k miles a month) but I'll also be attending as many Auto-X events as I can this summer. I'm running on 17X8 rims and 225/45ZR17 RE-01R tires. I also have 22mm front and 22mm rear adj. sway bar witch in combination with the Tanabe Gf210 reduce the body roll a lot.

    I guess my question here - Do you think that (-1.5) camber or as much negative as I can get it with the stock bolts in the front would be better for my set-up?

    I think I can get the alignment redone anytime since I paid for the lifetime alignment at Firestone.

    Thanks guys for all the input
    You have a better overall suspension setup than me - I envy you! And I have my front set to -1.5 and love it. Some go -2.0 (non OEM bolts of course) and beyond, but maybe not for a DD. Everyone's setup is a little different, but I think -2.0 would probably be just about max for a DD, but that's just me. Some report severe "tramlining" with -1.5 and more but they have wider tires and live in a very crap-road-prone-area, like here in Colorado.

  13. #147
    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Denver Metro Area
    Posts
    17,617
    I Support ClubWRX
    Now correct me if I'm wrong, but if I remember right, when you add an anti-lift kit, that means you can run less front camber with the exact same results because while turning camber is increased... correct??
    Kevin
    Moderator
    Sinister's Blowoff Valve FAQ
    WRX Gas Mileage FAQ
    Sinister's Progress Thread - 430whp 429wtq - Sold
    Firearms Enthusiasts Thread

    The Sheriff's Star at the bottom left corner rates a user's reputation.
    If you found a user's post to be helpful or quite the opposite, please make it known to them by clicking the Star!

  14. #148
    Wrinklechops
    Quote Originally Posted by Sinister View Post
    Now correct me if I'm wrong, but if I remember right, when you add an anti-lift kit, that means you can run less front camber with the exact same results because while turning camber is increased... correct??
    I think the anti-lift-kit just means you won't sprout wings and take off flying from all the horsepower it gives you.

  15. #149
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Plains of Eastern Montana
    Posts
    12,339
    I Support ClubWRX
    as the alk adds ~ .5 degrees of positive caster- yes you have better dynamic (in a turn) camber happening. .5 isn't exactly an eye popping increase so while there is benefit, it's not huge

    the main reason they came up w/ the alk is to remove some anti- lift and some anti-squat that the factory dialed in- this is the opposite of what a lot of people think- w/ an alk you car will lift, squat/dive MORE, not less- HOWEVER w/ these geometries changed you get much better corner exit and corner exit is key to getting around a track or autox course fast

    to the question of more camber up front- yes at some point it would be worth dialing in a few more tenths- you'll see after a few autox's that your outside is wearing faster than your inside (even though you've dialed in more neg camber which should have it wearing the opposite- which if you drove perfectly straight all the time it would)- no need to rush out right now- run few events then consider adding a little more camber up front
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  16. #150
    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Denver Metro Area
    Posts
    17,617
    I Support ClubWRX
    Quote Originally Posted by Big Sky WRX View Post
    as the alk adds ~ .5 degrees of positive caster- yes you have better dynamic (in a turn) camber happening. .5 isn't exactly an eye popping increase so while there is benefit, it's not huge

    the main reason they came up w/ the alk is to remove some anti- lift and some anti-squat that the factory dialed in- this is the opposite of what a lot of people think- w/ an alk you car will lift, squat/dive MORE, not less- HOWEVER w/ these geometries changed you get much better corner exit and corner exit is key to getting around a track or autox course fast

    to the question of more camber up front- yes at some point it would be worth dialing in a few more tenths- you'll see after a few autox's that your outside is wearing faster than your inside (even though you've dialed in more neg camber which should have it wearing the opposite- which if you drove perfectly straight all the time it would)- no need to rush out right now- run few events then consider adding a little more camber up front
    I was thinking of the ... umm.. gt spec? or something. I'm on the phone and can't search right now... but it was a blue ALK that had something in the neighborhood of 3.5• of positive caster
    Last edited by Sinister; 04-10-2009 at 02:00 PM.
    Kevin
    Moderator
    Sinister's Blowoff Valve FAQ
    WRX Gas Mileage FAQ
    Sinister's Progress Thread - 430whp 429wtq - Sold
    Firearms Enthusiasts Thread

    The Sheriff's Star at the bottom left corner rates a user's reputation.
    If you found a user's post to be helpful or quite the opposite, please make it known to them by clicking the Star!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •