CV Joint?

[AaronC]

I have a weird chattering noise imminating from the front right of my car. When i accellerat real hard or hit the brakes it goes away. All my suspension is on tight, but can move the wheel in and out slightly when i jack it up. Is that the CV joint having a problem?

TIA

[KurleeDaddeeWRX]

Does the chatter noise only happen when you turn? If so its the CV joints. If not, and you said you can move the wheel side to side a little, it sounds more to me like a wheel bearing or wheel bearing race. Does it whine at higher speeds? Check those things out.
Kurlee Daddee
(THE ORIGINAL)

[AaronC]

No it dosent seem to matter wether I am turning or not or what speed I am going. What would make a wheel bearing go bad?

[jmussetter]

If you have lateral play in your wheel, I would agree with KurleeDaddy, and say it's a wheel bearing also.

Smacking curbs will blow a wheel bearing, but so lots of sideways power sliding also. Any high stress load that goes to the wheels in a lateral movement put's a large amount of that stress on the wheel bearing. Most cars now days have sealed bearings, so they are a cartrige replacement.

Do you hear it grinding while the car is slowly rolling?

[AaronC]

Originally posted by jmussetter
If you have lateral play in your wheel, I would agree with KurleeDaddy, and say it's a wheel bearing also.

Smacking curbs will blow a wheel bearing, but so lots of sideways power sliding also. Any high stress load that goes to the wheels in a lateral movement put's a large amount of that stress on the wheel bearing. Most cars now days have sealed bearings, so they are a cartrige replacement.

Do you hear it grinding while the car is slowly rolling?

Grinding... I would say more of a popping or clicking. It dosent sound like when your are grinding your gears or somthing.

[jmussetter]

Well as much as I abuse my cars sliding around corners, I've been lucky enough to NOT have experienced this problem first hand yet with my last car or the Rexx.

It won't sound like gears grinding, but should probably sound more like a metal on metal scraping. Depending on how they are damaged, I guess they could make a range of noises, from scrapping, to clunking.

I'm not sure how hard it is to change those yourself, I always do my own brake jobs, but havn't ever taken the whole spindle apart before. Like I said, they usually are a cartridge of some type, but getting the cartridge out might be harder than it sounds. Otherwise, take it to a wheel and tire shop to have them look at it.

Anyone who has taken their spindles apart care to comment on this?

[GarySheehan]

We've had a lot of experience replacing wheel bearings. Here's the quick description to remove and install a front wheel bearing...

1. Remove the knuckle from the suspension.
a. Remove axle nut
b. Remove brake caliper
c. Remove both strut bolts
d. Remove tie rod ball joint
e. Remove lower control arm ball joint

2. On a hydraulic press, push the hub (don't press on the bearing) out of the bearing and knuckle. This will leave the outer inside race and roller bearings on the hub. The outer bearing race and inner inside race will remain in the knuckle.

3. Use an adjustable arbor bearing remover to press the hub out of the outer inside bearing race. This will also allow you to remove the outer bearing dust shield

4. Remove the inner bearing dust shield from the knuckle.

5. Use a c-clip remover or small flathead screwdriver to pry the retaining clip out of the knuckle.

6. Press the outer bearing race out of the knuckle by pressing on the inner inside race.

7. Clean the knuckle of all grease.

8. Unpack the new bearing. Diligently remove all traces of the packing grease that comes with the new bearing. Repack bearing with a high-quality, high-temp grease such as Redline CV2.

9. Press the entire new bearing package into the knuckle as a single piece. You can eliminate direct pressure on the roller bearings by using the old outer bearing race to press on the new outer bearing race.

10. Re-install the c-clip retainer.

11. Install the outer bearing dust seal. Oil the inner surface of the seal.

12. Support the inner inside bearing race and press the hub into the bearing. Oil the sealing surface of the hub prior to pressing in.

13. Install the inner bearing dust seal. Oil the inner surface of the seal.

14. Install the knuckle onto the suspension.

Simple as that.

Gary
Sheehan Motor Racing
www.teamSMR.com

[PlatinumWRX]

Originally posted by GarySheehan
Simple as that.

SURE! I think I'll go repack all four of my wheel bearings. I had no idea it was that easy!


But seriously...
Thanks for the instructions, Gary!

-Jim

[GarySheehan]

I've probably replaced/rebuilt at least 20 bearings since we've been racing the WRX. I could do it in my sleep at this point.

Since we put the Stoptech brakes on the racecar, we haven't had a single bearing failure!!!

Gary
Sheehan Motor Racing
www.teamSMR.com

[GV27]

Interesting - do you think that's due to a reduction in heat?

[GarySheehan]

It is without a doubt due to reduction in heat from braking.

Gary
Sheehan Motor Racing
www.teamSMR.com