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Improving ride quality on a 2017 WRX

28K views 22 replies 17 participants last post by  22Rex_Red 
#1 ·
Just as the title says, wondering if anyone has done anything to their 2015+ WRX to improve the ride quality. Thinking about things like softer or longer springs, changing spring rates, etc.

The horrid roads of New England are starting to take their toll. As much as you can dart back and forth to avoid potholes, the WRX's relatively stiff setup is simply no match for the city streets and frost-heave ridden backroads. With 10 city miles, 25 highway miles, and 10 miles of backroads on my commute (yes, each way), I'm getting properly beaten up by the time I get to/from work. It's getting old quick.

I know that on cars like the Fiesta ST, people have gone with different spring rates and in doing so have greatly improved their car's ride quality and compliance. Wondering if that might be the case with the WRX as well. My research has proven fruitless thus far.

Just curious to see if anyone has done anything to soften up their WRX a bit. I'm at a crossroads of keep/sell and if it falls into "keep" I'll be working to make the car ride a bit better...smaller wheels so as to increase the amount of sidewall on the tires, etc. Thanks for any help.
 
#2 ·
I haven't heard of anyone changing to softer springs. This will also change the handling dynamics of the car. I'm not trying to be a ****, but I think you may have chosen the wrong car. Something fun but more compromising, like a GTI or Civic Si, should have probably been on your list.
 
#8 ·
I agree - the WRX is fairly harsh, there are other options out there which are more compliant. It's a good question though - why can some of the more expensive cars provide performance and relative comfort at the same time? I would imagine there is an expensive option to improve the WRX as well, but not one I plan to find out about.
 
#3 ·
I'm getting properly beaten up by the time I get to/from work. It's getting old quick...
When I got my car I thought the same thing, but then I realized it was "me" who was "getting old." ;)

Really, I think this car's suspension is like a dump truck. I had thought of changing mine but so far just live with it. It is great for track and spirited driving but is indeed very harsh compared to family sedan commuter type cars. Changing to a higher profile tire will make a difference; my snow tires are 55s vs the 45 stock dunlops and it is a noticeable difference but still harsh. I also had looked at different spring/shock setups. There are some coilovers that have adjustable damping and rebound rates with a softer spring than stock. Many here are not fans of coilovers, but if you are solely concerned with softening the suspension, they may be an option. I did find some that at least advertise a softer ride than stock; can't say if they actually do.
 
#4 ·
I'm interested in the options out there just out of interest, but I've pretty much gotten used to the ride. Omaha has some gnarly streets--about as bad as any in the Midwest, TBH. Driving my Z4 around was useful training--VERY harsh suspension, to the point I would avoid cracks in the road obsessively. One pothole would pretty much require a spinal readjustment.

From my point of the view, the 2017 WRX isn't too bad actually--better than the 2012, MUCH better than the Z4. Not as good as the X3, of course, but people complained about the harsh ride in that one as well.

A smaller wheel with more profile should help. I ran 17's for the winter with some improvement. Tires can have a great effect on ride quality.

But, bottom line, if a comfortable ride is the goal, I agree this may be the wrong car. The X3 i35 would actually be a good choice if you want comfort and performance--SUV's > sedans in the pothole competition. (As far as a sedan, I've found BMW sedans to be not as cushy as one might think.)

I can't comment on Lexus, Infiniti, Acura and the other luxury brands out there, but they typically favor luxury and refinement somewhat over performance, of course at a cost.

A V6 Accord or Camry might be a better choice in a sedan than the WRX for refined ride with some HP in a similar price range.
 
#6 ·
You'll be SOL unless you are willing to shell out mega-bucks for coilovers with remote reservoirs. Even then, I'm not sure you'll be pleased. Frankly, you didn't buy the right car. You might be more interested in a GT car.
 
#9 ·
I'm with Zax and ProZach on this one. If you ask me, the new WRX's suspension isn't even that harsh comparably. Cheap might be a more accurate description. Either way, if you think the suspension in the stock WRX is too harsh then frankly you picked the wrong CATEGORY of car. If you want a sporty feel with a nice suspension then you need to look into a Mercedes-Benz C300 sport.
 
#10 ·
If you haven't already, tire pressure is the first placed I'd check, for hundreds if not way more than that are being delivered with 40-50 PSI. Why? Because they are shipped with that PSI for transporting to the U.S., and many Tech's are not catching/reducing that at the dealaership PDI. In fact after my fire test drive, I said NO!. And started exploring what should I now buy?

But after a friend told me about this often WRX delivery issue, went back to the identical car with my tire pressure gauge the next week, and after I reduced their 40-43 PSI in the dealership's parking lot to the factory recommended 33/32, I love the car. Not that it is not stiffly sprung at the reduced pressure, but I love exactly its super firm ride in this car at the right PSI. It is a whole different car at 33/32 than at 40+ PSI.

LOL, the identical problem with my wife's new Mazda 3 GT, that it was delivered with all its tires at 50+ PSI. Quickly realized that was its issue and fixed.
 
#11 ·
Thanks for the replies.

I bought the car under the right circumstances-- looking for a sporty sedan with turbo power that could handle not just my 100 mile round-trip commute but also autocross and the occasional beating. The ride quality didn't bother me at first. Hell, my VehiCROSS had significantly worse bump dampening. But things have changed.

Since then (I bought the car in July of 2016), I've had pretty significant back surgery. I couldn't have foreseen it happening and in only a matter of months my spine and back went from being perfectly fine to in need of surgical repair, but it's brought me to the "holy sh!t, this car actually beats me up over sh!tty surfaces" realization as of late. Not that it's unmanageable, just that in an ideal situation it would be a bit softer over things like potholes, expansion joints, etc.

Selling the car isn't something I want to do since it does just about everything I want/need a car to, but I'm looking for ways to make the abuse on my back a little less, simple as that...
 
#14 ·
I'm sorry to hear, this stinks plain and simple. Really your only other option here is to sell the car. If you still wanted the sporty feel with advanced suspension I would recommend looking into BMW 335i, Audi S4 or Mercedes C300 sport. If none of those appeal then I would just start test driving cars until you find one that is still fun for you but easier on your back.
 
#12 ·
Ross16, we are very sorry about your serious back issues. Let me be totally candid. Sell your 2017 WRX for there is nothing to do substantially change the stiffness of its ride. Life is too short to endure pain on a daily basis, especially when there are choices.

My wife's daily driver, a 2017 Mazda 3 GT (available in both an auto and a manual, both a sedan and a hatchback), would be one I would look at. It too is a fun driver's car, but you will get less power yet get much greater fuel economy -- regular gas to boot.

As it costs significantly less than a WRX, you might not be in too bad of shape in making the changeout.

Best of luck in whatever you choose to do.
 
#13 ·
Removing the endlinks and tying up the sway bars will help quite a bit with roll stiffness in situations where one tire hits a bump and the other doesn't. It's free, easy to try and easy to put back on for a day of hooning. I'd give it a shot.

Remember that removing one endlink also removes the sway bar input, you may be able to get away with that too, as long as it doesn't bang into anything during suspension cycling.

Obviously you will get more body roll in the car, but you may find it worth it to you. I removed the Hotchkis RSB I had on my Golf before it was bought back [TDI] and drove around with no RSB for several days. I didn't notice a change in normal driving characteristics, but the ride did improve on certain roads. Sway bars live their life wanting to translate load from one side to the other. Removing it will allow each corner of the car to handle the road independently.
 
#16 ·
FYR, what you've posted has literally nothing to do with a rally suspension. Bags are for stancetards that want that slammed look.

A rally suspension often comprises multiple struts with advanced valving architectures to permit really long suspension travel. Contrary to intuition, these setups are usually more rough and have significantly more NVH than a standard street setup over small suspension strokes. Certainly wouldn't achieve what the OP is looking to achieve. Also, the price would be around $20k.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
#18 ·
Ross, I can relate. In July '15 I had a L4-L5 fusion replete with titanium screws and pins. Years of weight-lifting and squats did immeasurable harm. I was dead-set against surgery until I reached a point I had no choice. Ultimately, a wise decision on my part.

Anyway, I completely understand the harsh ride. Occasionally, while on a rough road I wince at the thought of hurting my back more.

Keep us posted on how things turn out for you and success/failure of any changes you make. Godspeed!
 
#21 ·
Not the OP but have been battling the suspension of my ‘13 wrx hatch for a few years now. The problem isn’t only comfort, but all the potholes/vibration has caused all the infamous road rattles of the car to come out. Have replaced practically the entire front end, even swapped koni struts (adjustable) for stock. New (softer) tires and only slightly better. Debating if a 2” lift kit will help - anyone try that?
 
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