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Super Pro Front Control Arm Set Install on a 2013 WRX

3K views 1 reply 1 participant last post by  Arani Rey 
#1 ·
Here I go with my first forum write-up. This will cover installation of the SuperPro front control arm set with caster adding bushings. These are aluminum complete OEM replacement/upgrades with polyurethane bushings. These fit the 2008-14 WRX and STi, I'm installing these on my 2013 WRX. They are not yet listed on the Super Pro website, but they are listed at Cygnus Performance, part # supALOY0021K. Geoff at Cygnus Performance has been extremely helpful in feeding my mod addiction over the last few years.

To start off, I drove through some wet concrete dust and down a gravel road the week before to really get the undercarriage clean, sorry about that.


Tools required:
Sockets: 19mm and 17mm for a 1/2" ratchet plus whatever is required for your particular sway bar end links (my Super Pro end links use 16mm and 17mm)
1/2" ratchet
Needle nose pliers
Wire cutters
15mm and 17mm open end wrench plus whatever is required for your particular sway bar end links (my Super Pro end links use 16mm and 17mm)
Pitman arm removal tool or pickle fork

Optional tools:
Impact wrench
Linesman's pliers
Flat screwdriver to help line up bolts
1/2" drive breaker bar

You will also need two new cotter pins, one for each ball joint.
NOTE: If you have a WRX, you'll need two additional bolts from the dealer. Those are part# 901000377.

Start with lifting and supporting the vehicle with jack stands. I chose to do one side at a time.



I'm assuming that if you're reading this you already know how to take off your wheel.



----------Disassembly----------

1. Begin by unbolting your sway bar end link; I needed a 17mm socket and 16mm wrench because I have Super Pro end links.
You may need to lift the control arm or the other side of the vehicle to take the stress off the sway bar in order to remove the bolt(s).


2. Remove the cotter pin for the ball joint castle nut, I used needle nose pliers for this step


3. Loosen the castle nut from the ball joint if you're using the pitman arm tool or remove it if using the pickle fork method. I used a 1/2" ratchet with 19mm socket for this step.

4. If you're using the pitman arm tool now is the time to use it to pop the ball joint out of the control arm. This particular tool needed a 19mm socket. If you used this method you'll need to now fully remove the castle nut once you're done.


5. Remove the [nut if WRX, bolt if STi] from the control arm rear bushing. I used a 19mm socket with a breaker bar to remove this nut.


6. Remove the two 19mm bolts holding the control arm support brace to the body. Remove the plate and set it aside so you can reinstall it later.


7. Remove the nut/bolt holding the control arm's front bushing to the car. I used a 17mm wrench and 17mm socket with ratchet for this step.

Sorry this photo is a little blurry.


8. Now is the time to remove the old control arm. You may need to tap on it with a hammer as it may still be stuck in place at each mounting location. It should come out with a few small taps so if it seems stuck be sure to double check that you removed all the bolts and that the ball joint is free from the control arm.


9. If you're performing this on a WRX you'll need to remove the stud from the chassis where the rear bushing mounted. For this step I used the box end of a 15mm wrench and since it was pretty tight I also linked a 17mm wrench with it to give me more leverage.


Here is the new bolt for the rear bushing (left) compared to the stud we removed (right). You will not reuse that large spacer/washer.


----------Reassembly----------

10. Start with the rear bushing, especially if you have the caster adding version. I took the new bolt and put it through the support plate, through the new control arm's rear bushing, and then into the chassis. Take care to make sure the bolt goes in correctly, it should be vertical, once the bolt it started turn it a few times to hold the control arm in place while you get the other mounting points lined up.
In this photo the bottom dust boot had popped off the rear control arm bushing. Make sure that you properly reinstall that before fully tightening the bolt down to prevent damaging it.


11. Loosely install the two rear 19mm bolts in the support plate.


12. Push the new control arm's front bushing in to place on the car. It make take some wiggling to get the bolt to line up. I used a flat head screw driver to help gently pry it in to place.

13. Install the front bushing bolt and nut loosely (both 17mm) you should notice that the bolt has to go in from the rear of the vehicle towards the front.


14. Reinstall the ball joint to the control arm [MAKE SURE the steel cone insert is in the control arm, it should have been zip tied into place from shipping]. Reinstall the castle nut loosely.


15. Torque down the front and rear control arm bushing bolts and the two support plate bolts. See the factory service manual for exact torque specs or trust mine, the choice is yours.
Front bushing: 70 ft*lbs
Rear bushing: 103 ft*lbs
Support plate bolts: 110 ft*lbs

16. Torque down the ball joint castle nut. You may need an impact to tighten this bolt if the ball joint is spinning while you try to tighten it. Once it's torqued to spec (approx. 29 ft*lbs) you may need to turn the nut slightly to get the castle slots lined up with the cotter pin hole.

17. Install a new cotter pin in the ball joint. Make sure to trim off the excess and wrap the ends around the bolt or nut so that they don't get snagged.


18. Reinstall the sway bar end link to the new control arm. You may need to use a jack to lift up the control arm if you're doing one side at a time. Most manufacturers require the suspension to be loaded for correct end link installation anyway. Check with your particular manufacturer for instructions on use of spacers and torque specs.


19. Reinstall your wheel and torque the lug nuts to spec. Remember to check your lug nut torque after driving the car around as they may have come loose with aluminum wheels.

Congratulations, enjoy your new control arms. It may be time for a new alignment, at least have it checked out to see if your alignment is still in spec.

Here are a few additional pictures of the completed installation so you can see if yours looks correct.

 
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