Random light wheel vibration
Results 1 to 13 of 13

This is a discussion on Random light wheel vibration within the Suspension & Wheels forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; As the title states i have been getting light random wheel vibration under accleration. Now i did just get new ...

  1. #1
    Registered User SubiesaurusWRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Colonia
    Posts
    69

    Random light wheel vibration

    As the title states i have been getting light random wheel vibration under accleration. Now i did just get new wheels and tires (non hub centric) . Here are a few things i feel contribute to this.

    1. I need an alignment ( im getting one this friday)
    2. Light vibration only occurs under acceleration from 65-75.
    3. Also happens when the car weight shifts slightly to the right(following highway curve)
    4. Passenger rear wheel has a 1/4" flat spot on the inner lip of the rim (backside of rim, not even noticable to the eye you have to feel it)
    5.Driver side rear wheel has all five lugs on it however one lug is torqued down on a partially stripped stud. (The stud will most definitely need replacing if i untorque the nut)
    6. Wheels do not have hub centric rings ( wheel bore is 57.1 and ours is 56.1, i cant find a ring that small.)
    7. Wheel pressure 34 psi at all corners (recommended pressure for 18x8 wheel on 235/40 tire)

    Like i said previously i am getting an alignment this week. Hopefully that will almost make the vibration non existent, but is there anything i could be over looking. The tires seemed to be balanced properly, i would have considered road force balancing if i new at the time but i have also heard that sometimes it may not cure the issue. Any ideas on what i can do.
    2011 WRB WRX: DW 850 cc injectors. ProcessWest tmic. Custom SRI. GT spec header. Tsudo Turboback. Tial mv-s ewg. GFB TMS valve. Grimmspeed ebcs, crank pulley, and up-pipe. Cobb AP w/ custom tune. ACT HD clutch w/ lightweight flywheel. StopTech Club Kit ( front). Whiteline 3-pt adj. sway bars f/r. perrin front endlinks. Drag DR31 wheels 18x9 +15 offset. Nitto NeoGENS UHP all-seasons. Ultra Racing Rear Strut Bar.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    ClubWRX.net
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Registered User Motoxdude6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Lubbock, TX
    Posts
    147
    sound like your lugs are not tight enough. i know after i dipped my wheels i torqued them to spec but because the paint made a gap the came lose and were vibrating all crazy. thats my experience. check those good luck

  4. #3
    Registered User SubiesaurusWRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Colonia
    Posts
    69
    Im afraid if i tighten the lugs anymore i will strip more studs. I used used my typical 3/8 driver and put a 2 foot pipe over the handle and tightened them an additional half a turn. I will do it again to make sure but the last thing i need is to strip another stud. It sucks enough that one is stripped because a grain of sand or dirt got into the thread.
    2011 WRB WRX: DW 850 cc injectors. ProcessWest tmic. Custom SRI. GT spec header. Tsudo Turboback. Tial mv-s ewg. GFB TMS valve. Grimmspeed ebcs, crank pulley, and up-pipe. Cobb AP w/ custom tune. ACT HD clutch w/ lightweight flywheel. StopTech Club Kit ( front). Whiteline 3-pt adj. sway bars f/r. perrin front endlinks. Drag DR31 wheels 18x9 +15 offset. Nitto NeoGENS UHP all-seasons. Ultra Racing Rear Strut Bar.

  5. #4
    Village Idiot McBill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Buckeye State
    Posts
    1,184
    I Support ClubWRX
    Quote Originally Posted by SubiesaurusWRX View Post
    Im afraid if i tighten the lugs anymore i will strip more studs. I used used my typical 3/8 driver and put a 2 foot pipe over the handle and tightened them an additional half a turn. I will do it again to make sure but the last thing i need is to strip another stud. It sucks enough that one is stripped because a grain of sand or dirt got into the thread.
    If you are going to tighten them properly you need to use a torque wrench and tighten each lug to 70-75 ft/lbs. That will assure they are on there tight enough. Don't go just tightening with a breaker bar until it "feels right". That's how you sheer a lug stud. You need to make sure that you tighten them while the wheel is off the ground as well.

    In terms of the vibration, to me this is one of two things: Your wheel is out of balance (not likely since you only experience this under acceleration); or your lugs aren't tight enough, you did not tighten them properly (or whoever put the wheels on last), you have a missing lug, or one or more of your studs are sheered.

    Time to check and recheck.
    2011 WRB WRX Sedan - Q300, Invidia Catted Downpipe, Cobb RAM Intake w/Box, Protuned buy TiC
    Stink-Eye Mob #696
    Build Thread
    Facebook
    @billym14

  6. #5
    MAINEiac 11blackSTi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Land of the Port. ME
    Posts
    2,806
    I Support ClubWRX
    Quote Originally Posted by SubiesaurusWRX View Post
    Im afraid if i tighten the lugs anymore i will strip more studs. I used used my typical 3/8 driver and put a 2 foot pipe over the handle and tightened them an additional half a turn. I will do it again to make sure but the last thing i need is to strip another stud. It sucks enough that one is stripped because a grain of sand or dirt got into the thread.
    I would invest in a torque wrench and torque them to the Subaru recommended specs (not blaming the stripped stud on that nor the wheel vibration - its possible the balancing was not spot on, but I'd see how it drives after the alignment).

    Edit - Ah McBill you beat me to it you SOB

  7. #6
    Village Idiot McBill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Buckeye State
    Posts
    1,184
    I Support ClubWRX
    Quote Originally Posted by 11blackSTi View Post
    Edit - Ah McBill you beat me to it you SOB
    2011 WRB WRX Sedan - Q300, Invidia Catted Downpipe, Cobb RAM Intake w/Box, Protuned buy TiC
    Stink-Eye Mob #696
    Build Thread
    Facebook
    @billym14

  8. #7
    Registered User SubiesaurusWRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Colonia
    Posts
    69
    Ok i will check the lugs asap and if that isnt the issue lets hope the alignment will assist me better. Now if that doesnt do it, last resort is remove all wheels, rebalance, replace the stripped stud which is absolutely last lol
    2011 WRB WRX: DW 850 cc injectors. ProcessWest tmic. Custom SRI. GT spec header. Tsudo Turboback. Tial mv-s ewg. GFB TMS valve. Grimmspeed ebcs, crank pulley, and up-pipe. Cobb AP w/ custom tune. ACT HD clutch w/ lightweight flywheel. StopTech Club Kit ( front). Whiteline 3-pt adj. sway bars f/r. perrin front endlinks. Drag DR31 wheels 18x9 +15 offset. Nitto NeoGENS UHP all-seasons. Ultra Racing Rear Strut Bar.

  9. #8
    Village Idiot McBill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Buckeye State
    Posts
    1,184
    I Support ClubWRX
    Quote Originally Posted by SubiesaurusWRX View Post
    Ok i will check the lugs asap and if that isnt the issue lets hope the alignment will assist me better. Now if that doesnt do it, last resort is remove all wheels, rebalance, replace the stripped stud which is absolutely last lol
    Does the stripped stud happen to be on the wheel you are feeling the vibration from? IE. does the vibration come from the bottom of your seat (this indicates one of the rear two wheels)? Or is it something that you can feel in your steering wheel (this indicates one of the front two wheels)?
    2011 WRB WRX Sedan - Q300, Invidia Catted Downpipe, Cobb RAM Intake w/Box, Protuned buy TiC
    Stink-Eye Mob #696
    Build Thread
    Facebook
    @billym14

  10. #9
    Registered User SubiesaurusWRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Colonia
    Posts
    69
    Its only from the steering wheel. Its not violent at all its actually as wierd as this sounds, the vibration is more or less like one of those small back massagers. I did check all my lugs and atleast 4 were in need of additional tightening. So all of them are good now with the exception of the rear driver wheel with the partially stripped stud. I will see how that pans out. I might actually get the stud replaced today anyway. I saw some youtube vids on it but a friend of mine can swap it out in about 45 min.
    2011 WRB WRX: DW 850 cc injectors. ProcessWest tmic. Custom SRI. GT spec header. Tsudo Turboback. Tial mv-s ewg. GFB TMS valve. Grimmspeed ebcs, crank pulley, and up-pipe. Cobb AP w/ custom tune. ACT HD clutch w/ lightweight flywheel. StopTech Club Kit ( front). Whiteline 3-pt adj. sway bars f/r. perrin front endlinks. Drag DR31 wheels 18x9 +15 offset. Nitto NeoGENS UHP all-seasons. Ultra Racing Rear Strut Bar.

  11. #10
    Registered User SubiesaurusWRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Colonia
    Posts
    69
    Got an alignment and rebalanced the just the front tires. Shaking got so much worse, the rear stripped stud is completely done now, and to top it off i already have a screw in my brand new tires. Im just going to take a hit and get another set of brand new wheels and have everything done right the first time. Im considering drag dr31s, they look like work crkai's. I found a brand new set for 410 shipped and that is 18x9 with a +15 offset. Does anyone think i will have rubbing issues on stock ride height?
    2011 WRB WRX: DW 850 cc injectors. ProcessWest tmic. Custom SRI. GT spec header. Tsudo Turboback. Tial mv-s ewg. GFB TMS valve. Grimmspeed ebcs, crank pulley, and up-pipe. Cobb AP w/ custom tune. ACT HD clutch w/ lightweight flywheel. StopTech Club Kit ( front). Whiteline 3-pt adj. sway bars f/r. perrin front endlinks. Drag DR31 wheels 18x9 +15 offset. Nitto NeoGENS UHP all-seasons. Ultra Racing Rear Strut Bar.

  12. #11
    Registered User SubiesaurusWRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Colonia
    Posts
    69
    Got an alignment and rebalanced the just the front tires. Shaking got so much worse, the rear stripped stud is completely done now, and to top it off i already have a screw in my brand new tires. Im just going to take a hit and get another set of brand new wheels and have everything done right the first time. Im considering drag dr31s, they look like work crkai's. I found a brand new set for 410 shipped and that is 18x9 with a +15 offset. Does anyone think i will have rubbing issues on stock ride height?
    2011 WRB WRX: DW 850 cc injectors. ProcessWest tmic. Custom SRI. GT spec header. Tsudo Turboback. Tial mv-s ewg. GFB TMS valve. Grimmspeed ebcs, crank pulley, and up-pipe. Cobb AP w/ custom tune. ACT HD clutch w/ lightweight flywheel. StopTech Club Kit ( front). Whiteline 3-pt adj. sway bars f/r. perrin front endlinks. Drag DR31 wheels 18x9 +15 offset. Nitto NeoGENS UHP all-seasons. Ultra Racing Rear Strut Bar.

  13. #12
    Registered User SubiesaurusWRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Colonia
    Posts
    69
    Found out the true problem, the wheel hub bore is too large for the our stock hub. I was under the impressions that the wheels were a 57.1 hub bore when in fact they are 72.6. So i just ordered poly carbonate hub rings and they will be in this week. If that doesnt help the vibration along with a rebalance of my wheels then i am just at a loss. I will take it a step at a time. I will put the rings on first then if that doesnt do i will get a rebalancing of the tires again.
    2011 WRB WRX: DW 850 cc injectors. ProcessWest tmic. Custom SRI. GT spec header. Tsudo Turboback. Tial mv-s ewg. GFB TMS valve. Grimmspeed ebcs, crank pulley, and up-pipe. Cobb AP w/ custom tune. ACT HD clutch w/ lightweight flywheel. StopTech Club Kit ( front). Whiteline 3-pt adj. sway bars f/r. perrin front endlinks. Drag DR31 wheels 18x9 +15 offset. Nitto NeoGENS UHP all-seasons. Ultra Racing Rear Strut Bar.

  14. #13
    Village Idiot McBill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Buckeye State
    Posts
    1,184
    I Support ClubWRX
    Quote Originally Posted by SubiesaurusWRX View Post
    Found out the true problem, the wheel hub bore is too large for the our stock hub. I was under the impressions that the wheels were a 57.1 hub bore when in fact they are 72.6. So i just ordered poly carbonate hub rings and they will be in this week. If that doesnt help the vibration along with a rebalance of my wheels then i am just at a loss. I will take it a step at a time. I will put the rings on first then if that doesnt do i will get a rebalancing of the tires again.
    That should certainly fix the problem. Other than possible very minor wobbles from tire imperfections.
    2011 WRB WRX Sedan - Q300, Invidia Catted Downpipe, Cobb RAM Intake w/Box, Protuned buy TiC
    Stink-Eye Mob #696
    Build Thread
    Facebook
    @billym14

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •