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This is a discussion on So I want to upgrade my brakes... within the Suspension & Wheels forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by nsibanez Ya..When you say turn rotor...literally means pull rotor off turn it so it sits differently on ...

  1. #16
    Registered User gregroot198521's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nsibanez View Post
    Ya..When you say turn rotor...literally means pull rotor off turn it so it sits differently on the hub correct? No way in hell that'd cost more then .1 hours labor
    Unless they thought they were going to cut them

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    No, turning rotors means it gets machine back to flat.
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  3. #17
    Registered User degobah77's Avatar
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    Haha, no, turning = cutting, machining down, smoothing out, etc. I swear autoparts stores used to do it super cheap. Not sure why it costs $120 a rotor to put a disc on a machine and press START. That is, unless they're doing something else I am completely unaware of.
    Not so much anymore.

  4. #18
    Registered User nsibanez's Avatar
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    Oh gotchya. Always thought it literally meant just turning it to sit differently on the hub cause of the hub runout.
    Even my dealership still only charges 1.5 hours (toyota) so about 150

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  5. #19
    Registered User nsibanez's Avatar
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    Still overpriced. All that's involved is removing the rotor, setting it on the machine, zero out and ya push start. Depending on how bad the rotor is you shouldn't need more then 2 cuts

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  6. #20
    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Guys, this rotor warping stuff with modern rotors does not happen, and that old diagnosis is leading you far astray.

    What you have are uneven deposits. They come from overheating your pad and then coming to a complete stop and leaving the pad simmering on the rotor. This is not an opinion and any brake manufacturer will tell you so.

    When you turn a rotor just to remove a deposit, you reduce the mass. It heats up more. If you get slotted rotors you reduce the mass. Both of these make your vibration come back faster as it cooks your pads more.

    Once you understand this you can have perfect brakes for the rest of your life. I use the cheapest rotors I can find and I replace them every set of pads. The get rusty and nasty by then, reducing mass, getting out of balance. Get great pads. Follow your pads' break in. Do not come to a complete stop when you have been using them hard - even at a light you can leave enough room to creep a little bit at a time without being conspicuous. Or let them off and set the handbrake.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
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  7. #21
    Registered User nsibanez's Avatar
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    Oh man, rotors warp...put them on a lathe and only one section was cut. Warped rotors are what give you brake pulsations either in the brake pedal it steering wheel
    But I get what your saying. There is no avoiding it, just going to happen depending on your braking habits mostly. It's possible to pad slap and have no issues but it's recommended to either replace or cut every brake job.
    And yes especially with slotted rotors you already have less mass (which nay be why some say you can't cut slotted/drilled rotors) so cutting them even once will increase this. Plus as you cut a slot you literally smooth the slots out making it easier to collect deposits

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  8. #22
    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Warping is not the same as having a little run out you can pick up on a lathe. E.g. I was doing the brakes on my rebel yesterday and in that section of the manual the tolerance for run out on the front rotor I recall is .3mm. You will easily catch that on a lathe. I do not think you will feel it at all though.

    Do not turn rotors. It DOES make it worse and happen again more quickly because of the reduced mass.

    This is from Stoptech. Every manufacturer will tell you the same.

    "The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System
    by Carroll Smith

    Myth # 1 – BRAKE JUDDER AND VIBRATION IS CAUSED BY DISCS THAT HAVE BEEN WARPED FROM EXESSIVE HEAT."

    "In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures."

    -Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

  9. #23
    Registered User nsibanez's Avatar
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    I think I get what you're saying. It's not the rotor itself but rather pad material transferred giving high and low spots in the rotor?

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  10. #24
    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Yeah, for sure.

    If do get judder (it can happen even if you don't stop on them especially with cheap pads) the best thing to try is re-bedding them like the break-in instructions. Sometimes you can cook it off and then leave an even deposit like it is supposed to have.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

  11. #25
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    So what type of pads...go!

    1. Hawk HPS
    2. Hawk Ceramic
    3. Stoptech Street
    4. EBC Redstuff
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  12. #26
    Registered User degobah77's Avatar
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    I'm not turning rotors, not for $240, and definitely not after reading the above posts. I bought a StopTech full sport brake upgrade kit from RSD. The fronts I wanted came out to $345, and the kit tops out @ $520. Free shipping, too.

    Also got a Cobb Shift Knob too just for good measure

    Edit: when I had my Plymouth Laser and drove it like the crazed 19y.o. I was, I "warped" the rotors over and over and turned the crap out of them and the problem just kept coming back (I worked at Trak Auto - was getting them machined at no cost), so I totally agree with the myth thing. It's just easy money for a dealer, I guess.
    Not so much anymore.

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