Kill all understeer!!!
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This is a discussion on Kill all understeer!!! within the Suspension & Wheels forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; So as some of you know, I've been addicted to AutoX. I'm running in STU with my 2013 STi Hatchback ...

  1. #1
    Registered User A265's Avatar
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    Kill all understeer!!!

    So as some of you know, I've been addicted to AutoX. I'm running in STU with my 2013 STi Hatchback and love it.

    I'm not very competitive but who cares I'm having fun.

    Current Setup.
    24mm whiteline front sway bar, set to hard.
    22mm whiteline rear sway bar, set to hard.
    front and rear kartboy endlinks
    -1.4 camber up front and 0 toe all around.
    Tires stock Dunlops for now.
    Running the DCCD in auto.

    The questions, car still understeers more than I'd like. I know it's a characteristic of the car, but I'd like to dial it down even more.
    Anything I can tweak in my current setup that would help? Like DCCD setting or sway bar settings.
    Just got the alignement late last year, should I just try and go more aggressive? Worth spending $80+ on it?
    If setup seems fine, what mod would you do? Keep in mind I'm trying to save for tires so bang for your buck and cheap would be best.

    Thanks.

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    MAINEiac 11blackSTi's Avatar
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    A more aggressive alignment (although you might be maxed out) plus stickier tires will go miles for you (pun intended). I have already told you (probably 500 times lol), but the michelin pilot super sports are incredible tires. The stock dunlops can't touch them with a 2 mile pole.

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    Registered User A265's Avatar
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    Tires are on the list for sure, those are on the list however I'm thinking going even stickier as it's not only a DD but my AutoX car.

    So far I like the Bridgestone RE-11a, BFGoodrich Rivals and Dunlop ZII (if I wait until Sept I could get the star specs).

    I was initially thinking Toyo R1R or Yokohama AD08's but those are all under 200 threadwear putting me into a race tire category.

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    zax
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    Not really a mod, but have you tried running the DCCD in full-open? It should be better for tight corners like Auto-X. I know the modern STi has steering-angle sensors that contribute to the DCCD lock-up in auto, but most GD STi guys run the center diff completely open in Auto-x.
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    OMG WTF MainFrame's Avatar
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    Remove as much weight as you can from the nose of the car.. if you don't care about front end crash safety you can get rid of the front bumper beam. Also relocating the battery, most serious auto-x guys prefer to install a light weight battery like the Braille ones under or behind the passenger seat in the cabin. Removing the AC can also be very beneficial, but may be undesirable depending on your climate. I think there are also more rigid, light weight, tubular sub frames you can get to replace your stock one.


    And for what it's worth, the local guy I know who is really successful at auto-x with his STi runs NO swaybars at all (weight savings). He has 1000lb springs on his car, so there is no body roll, even with the swaybars removed entirely.

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    Pro Manscaper Mikie13's Avatar
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    stiffer springs...more negative camber...better tires...ALK
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    Registered User wreckingball man's Avatar
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    Slower speed. Skip those sharp corners..take the penalty. It's worth it every time

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    Get the Whiteline caster kit (Whiteline Anti Lift Kit (KCA334)), Whiteline Rear Positive Traction Kit (Whiteline Part # KDT910) and Whiteline Rear Diff Positive Power Kit Inserts (KDT903). Keep zero toe in front and just a tiny bit in back.

    Try that, seems to have eliminated that preundersteer and solid as a rock out of corners. I have the same bars as you, but run soft in front and hardest in back.

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    Registered User A265's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice guys.

    Tires are a priority once the stock ones are dead, trust me I'm trying hard to kill them fast.
    ALK is out of the question for the near future (since the class I want to run this year and possibly the next)
    Rear Positive Traction Kit might be my next step, we'll see.
    Weight loss is a good idea, but the car is fairly new and my DD I don't want to sacrifice much daily creature comforts, but I'll look into options.

    So what I did since this thread is try what Zach suggested, since it was easy and didn't cost a penny.
    First 2 runs I tried Auto-, last 2 I disabled Auto and ran it open. I must say I enjoy both settings more than simply Auto, but running open felt much better. I'll try both again at the next event. Understeer was much more tame with both settings.

    Next up is getting more aggressive camber up front, I've been going back and forth to buy camber bolts or not. My concern is to bring the car in to try and achieve -1.8 to -2 degrees with the stock bolt to only yield something closer to what I have now -1.4 degrees. What do you guys think? Should I chance it and try with the stock bolts, or should I get the camber bolts? My concern with the camber bolts is they are not as tuff as the stock bolts, but failure rate seems very small.

    Also, picture for less boring talk.

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    MAINEiac 11blackSTi's Avatar
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    I'd be very surprised if you were able to achieve -1.8 to -2 up front for your camber on stock bolts. I asked for them to max negative my camber last time and I only achieved -1.4 up front. I know some can get more than others, but my hunch is that to achieve that figure you'd need the aftermarket bolts.

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    zax
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    soften up your front sway bar. you will get a increase in body roll in the front but it will help with the under steer.

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    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    Are you looking to be competitive in Auto-X or are you looking to make the car handle like you want? Unless you are competing in every event and hoping to move on from your local level to compete in larger events, you shouldn't care about classing, IMO.
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    Registered User A265's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by squints View Post
    soften up your front sway bar. you will get a increase in body roll in the front but it will help with the under steer.
    I'm pretty sure this will have the opposite effect by reducing turn in (which I want).

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    Registered User A265's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EJ257 View Post
    Are you looking to be competitive in Auto-X or are you looking to make the car handle like you want? Unless you are competing in every event and hoping to move on from your local level to compete in larger events, you shouldn't care about classing, IMO.
    I agree, but I find classing and staying within those constraint part of the fun. This will all go out of the window once I stop being a wuss and get WTFed.

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