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What sway bars and end links did you get?

19K views 56 replies 21 participants last post by  Gsxrboy4life 
#1 ·
Hello all,

I have a 2014 WRX Sedan that is my daily driver, will not see a track just street fun. I was looking to upgrade my sway bars and end-links and was wondering which brand you have and size.

I was thinking about whiteline 22mm adjustable rear and 24mm adjustable front. and karboy endlinks.
But i also seen the eibach swaybar kit that comes with 25mm adj front and 22mm adj rear. for about $366. plus tax

just what to know if you are happy with the swaybars and endlinks you purchased.

Thanks
 
#7 ·
The other reason i was looking at the whiteline rear swaybar is because of this Whiteline rear sway bar support brace (KBR15). Not sure if it will make a huge difference with it or not.

Has anyone had any squeaking noise or issues with any swaybars or endlinks?
 
#8 ·
dknow said:
Hello all,

I have a 2014 WRX Sedan that is my daily driver, will not see a track just street fun. I was looking to upgrade my sway bars and end-links and was wondering which brand you have and size.

I was thinking about whiteline 22mm adjustable rear and 24mm adjustable front. and karboy endlinks.
But i also seen the eibach swaybar kit that comes with 25mm adj front and 22mm adj rear. for about $366. plus tax

just what to know if you are happy with the swaybars and endlinks you purchased.

Thanks
I sell both, but would urge you to go Whiteline over Eibachs. Kartboy endlinks are the best on the market.

dknow said:
Has anyone had any squeaking noise or issues with any swaybars or endlinks?
That can usually be attributed to needing to regrease the swaybar bushings.
 
#20 ·
That's not exactly true when it comes to sway bars, if you get a huge bar and you're springs are too soft you will experience wheel lift in times you don't want.

That being said, a 24mm bar isn't that huge, but it is the biggest bar I would run on stock springs.
 
#22 ·
I have 24mm front and 22mm rear solid bars (whiteline). They are not installed yet so this is research based recommendations.

However this is my take on the 2 options I was considering, so it depends on how you feel your car is lacking.

I autoX and find my car pushes out (understeers) and turn in is not as sharp as I'd like, this is why I decided to go with a bigger bar up front.
 
#24 ·
I read elsewhere they are 21/16 for the WRX. I have not measured mine as I've only had it just over a week, but I definitely think it could use a bit of an upgrade.

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#26 ·
The STI bar can be had for about $100. I put one on my wife's 14FXT and it made a substantial difference.

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#28 ·
The tuner shop I stopped at told me I should be fine with just changing the rear sway bar and end links. Told me to leave the front sway bar stock. What do u guys think.

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#29 ·
This really depends on what you want your car to do. For optimal performance, change both at the same time. Front is also more important than the rear. Change the rear only, you'll change the way the car oversteers. Both at the same time is recommended.

I have a '14 hatch and have 24/22 front/rear whiteline sways. Yet to install, but this was recommended to me by multiple tuners (including ones on this forum) and regulars here on this site.
 
#35 ·
Where is the best place to buy the Whiteline sways? Probably want the antidive/anitlift kit as well. I'm going 24 front, 22 rear for sway bars.

To be honest over the years the sways I have purchased for various cars I always am paranoid about "too much bar", then when I get them all installed, meh hardly much difference, always wish I got the bigger bars. But yeah my hatch could use stiffer springs as well.
 
#36 ·
You don't have to replace both. The WRX uses the same front bar as the STI so you would be good to upgrade the rear to the STI bar or similar aftermarket without any I'll effects. If you go too big I'd recommend upgrading the front too.
I ran a 20mm JDM RSB on my 06 legacy with the stock front bar and had great results.
I installed a 19mm STI RSB on my wife's 14 FXT and kept the stock front bar. Again great results.

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#41 ·
please explain then. just because you've posted 20,000 times on this website doesn't make you special.. He said he wanted to keep the stock sway up front and stock endlinks. then put an aftermarket sway on the back and i believe end links also. When you tighten up the steering up-front too you get good handling and some oversteer (good) esp when cornering hard. So please, explain your logic.
All Im saying is that I would just buy a sway bar kit and save the dough to the OP because I'm happy I did. Companys of sways don't matter very much IMO and mechanical experience, Eibach is cheap and is big into making suspension components for many cars (reliable, reputable).
 
#44 · (Edited)
kdeitrich said:
please explain then. just because you've posted 20,000 times on this website doesn't make you special.. He said he wanted to keep the stock sway up front and stock endlinks. then put an aftermarket sway on the back and i believe end links also. When you tighten up the steering up-front too you get good handling and some oversteer (good) esp when cornering hard. So please, explain your logic.
You're correct that my post count "doesn't make me special". However, my experience wrenching on and tuning these cars does...

In laymen terms:
  1. Understeer = Front runs wider than rear
  2. Oversteer = Rear runs wider than front
By upgrading the rear swaybar, you're causing the rear to "push", and will make the car more "neutral" in terms of handling. However, that doesn't address the original issue of the front running wide in a corner, it just means that the rear end is running wider than necessary, as well. Fixing understeer by slapping a larger rear swaybar on the car is essentially like trying to get someone to quit smoking by giving them a tin of Copenhagen.

The MacPherson strut used in the front causes significant camber loss in Subarus on turn-in, by design. As you enter a turn, the outside spring gets loaded, and compresses. As it compresses, camber on that corner moves towards zero/positive. As a result, the front end will "push" as a result of not having optimal contact patch.

By increasing the front swaybar stiffness, you decrease the amount of dynamic camber loss as you enter a corner. As a result, you see more contact patch at the front; therefore, the front end does not "push" as badly as before, and understeer is decreased.

kdeitrich said:
All Im saying is that I would just buy a sway bar kit and save the dough to the OP because I'm happy I did.
Buying F/R swaybars and endlinks is ideal.

That said, if you're looking for a single bar, I would argue that the front bar is more important than the rear for reasons stated above.

kdeitrich said:
Companys of sways don't matter very much IMO and mechanical experience, Eibach is cheap and is big into making suspension components for many cars (reliable, reputable).
If you buy from a reputable company, the manufacturer of the bar shouldn't matter. The composition, however, absolutely DOES matter. A hollow bar (e.g., Eibach) is significantly less rigid than a solid one (e.g., Whiteline).
 
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#45 ·
By upgrading the rear swaybar, you're causing the rear to "push", and will make the car more "neutral" in terms of handling. However, that doesn't address the original issue of the front running wide in a corner, it just means that the rear end is running wider than necessary, as well. Fixing understeer by slapping a larger rear swaybar on the car is essentially like trying to get someone to quit smoking by giving them a tin of Copenhagen.
I was very surprised the first time I entered a corner quickly after replacing the rear bar and instead of the front sliding to let me know that I was near the limit of grip, the whole car slid. :eek3:
 
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