Replacement strut advise...

[06wrx4me]

When looking at making my own wheel stands out of wood, I found this website for calculating column loading. My design is sooo overkill.

https://courses.cit.cornell.edu/arch...7.1/index.html

Also think these bearings would be cool for front turntables instead of using sand or salt or greased plates:

McMaster-Carr

or perhaps an 8 position detent

McMaster-Carr

Either way not bad for $10-$12 respectively.

[06wrx4me]

Just waitin....

[Mikie13]

I'll be over shortly. I have to put in my AEM boost gauge anyway

[06wrx4me]

I'll be over shortly. I have to put in my AEM boost gauge anyway

Wait till tomorrow, that's when the top hats show up 😁

[mycologist]

nice

[06wrx4me]

Been a busy day....

Suspension installed.

Camber set on 3 wheels, gonna finish it tomorrow, it's beer time

Easily hit -1.7 camber front, -1.2 rear.



Pics:

[06wrx4me]

DIY on the wheel stands.

DIY: Wooden Wheel Stands

[06wrx4me]

and bam!

DIY: Alignment, thats right align your car at home with simple tools.

[mycologist]

and bam!

DIY: Alignment, thats right align your car at home with simple tools.

Awesome! Let us know how you like it.

[mycologist]

and bam!

DIY: Alignment, thats right align your car at home with simple tools.

Awesome! Let us know how you like it.

[06wrx4me]

So Far I like it a lot better than having a set of blown stock struts lol. Its amazing how bad the stock ones were.

One thing I am surprised about is how little (if any) the setup lowered my car versus the take off STi springs I had on there. I dunno if they had sagged over the years or what, but so far I'm pretty close to the same, maybe less than 1/2" lower.

The Tokico D specs have an interesting adjustment mechanism. It feels vague and resistance-less when turning the adjuster, almost like it is free wheeling. Konis have a much better adjuster feel. However once you drive the car, its as if gas or fluid pressure adds resistance to the adjuster holding your adjustment in place. The next time you go to adjust, there is a positive feel to first start the adjuster moving.

The adjuster also has no mechanical stop to keep you from backing them out. The instructions say that there are "7.5 turns of adjustment" but you can keep turning the adjuster all the way out of the strut if you don't stop.

That being said they do work well, and I bought the adjustment extenders for the rear which are convenient to say the least.

So far I am at 3.5 turns off of full hard in the front and 4.5 turns off of full hard in the back.

The whiteline Com C's are a quality unit, very nice. I'm glad I bought them, the bearings were shot in my OEM top hats.

Although they were expensive, I am glad I bought the Group-N rear mounts too. The OEM mounts had cracking and the top of the old spring had worn an indentation in permanently which could have been problematic.

One thing that I bought that I never here of anyone else buying were the rubber spring seats for the front and rear. My OEM ones were split and tired. Well worth the extra $$$.

[mycologist]

So Far I like it a lot better than having a set of blown stock struts lol. Its amazing how bad the stock ones were.

One thing I am surprised about is how little (if any) the setup lowered my car versus the take off STi springs I had on there. I dunno if they had sagged over the years or what, but so far I'm pretty close to the same, maybe less than 1/2" lower.

The Tokico D specs have an interesting adjustment mechanism. It feels vague and resistance-less when turning the adjuster, almost like it is free wheeling. Konis have a much better adjuster feel. However once you drive the car, its as if gas or fluid pressure adds resistance to the adjuster holding your adjustment in place. The next time you go to adjust, there is a positive feel to first start the adjuster moving.

The adjuster also has no mechanical stop to keep you from backing them out. The instructions say that there are "7.5 turns of adjustment" but you can keep turning the adjuster all the way out of the strut if you don't stop.

That being said they do work well, and I bought the adjustment extenders for the rear which are convenient to say the least.

So far I am at 3.5 turns off of full hard in the front and 4.5 turns off of full hard in the back.

The whiteline Com C's are a quality unit, very nice. I'm glad I bought them, the bearings were shot in my OEM top hats.

Although they were expensive, I am glad I bought the Group-N rear mounts too. The OEM mounts had cracking and the top of the old spring had worn an indentation in permanently which could have been problematic.

One thing that I bought that I never here of anyone else buying were the rubber spring seats for the front and rear. My OEM ones were split and tired. Well worth the extra $$$.

My ride height dropped substantially aver about a 6 week period. In fact I had to redo the pictures in my thread it changed so much. You're going to have to redo your alignment then.

I wish I hadn't cheaped out on the rear tophats. The ones I used were used but in decent shape. I have a little more damping dialed in for the rear vs. the front. JR suggested such and it helped with how the rear feels a bit more bouncy. I don't know if the difference in durometer in the rear hats vs. the com C is affecting that, but it seems likely to contribute a bit.

[EJ257]

One thing I am surprised about is how little (if any) the setup lowered my car versus the take off STi springs I had on there. I dunno if they had sagged over the years or what, but so far I'm pretty close to the same, maybe less than 1/2" lower.

There was minimal drop between my OE / RCE Black springs. The biggest drop came up front, but from my camber plates; I regret not buying spacers for the rear (had I known what the wheel gap difference was going to be, I would've).

The whiteline Com C's are a quality unit, very nice. I'm glad I bought them, the bearings were shot in my OEM top hats.

Although they were expensive, I am glad I bought the Group-N rear mounts too. The OEM mounts had cracking and the top of the old spring had worn an indentation in permanently which could have been problematic.

One thing that I bought that I never here of anyone else buying were the rubber spring seats for the front and rear. My OEM ones were split and tired. Well worth the extra $$$.

Glad you are happy. I'd almost say that new OE mounts would've been sufficient for the rear, but the GNs are certainly very nice.

Good info on the rubber spring seats

[06wrx4me]

My ride height dropped substantially aver about a 6 week period. In fact I had to redo the pictures in my thread it changed so much. You're going to have to redo your alignment then.

I wish I hadn't cheaped out on the rear tophats. The ones I used were used but in decent shape. I have a little more damping dialed in for the rear vs. the front. JR suggested such and it helped with how the rear feels a bit more bouncy. I don't know if the difference in durometer in the rear hats vs. the com C is affecting that, but it seems likely to contribute a bit.

The Whiteline Com C's advertise a durometer equal to the group N. I figure I'll have to redo the alignment in a couple months. No biggy now though

My backs aren't bouncy at all right now. I started with front to back equal and it was way too bouncy. Dialed the back softer by 1 turn then the front and got it close. Now I think the front is just a smidge stiff.

There was minimal drop between my OE / RCE Black springs. The biggest drop came up front, but from my camber plates; I regret not buying spacers for the rear (had I known what the wheel gap difference was going to be, I would've).



Glad you are happy. I'd almost say that new OE mounts would've been sufficient for the rear, but the GNs are certainly very nice.

Good info on the rubber spring seats

There is definitely a durometer difference Group N to stock. Honestly I dunno if I could've fit a socket the right size in the stock mount, the hole is smaller. The Tokico D specs come with a larger 14mm nut.

[mycologist]

Yeah, the non-group N rear hats I used certainly don't negate the huge improvement over stock handling, but I do think they contribute to the rear being bouncier when paired with the Com-C. I wish I had done them in the first place to some degree, but obviously not enough to pony up now and put in the <2 hrs to replace them.