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This is a discussion on Better brakes (not bigger) within the Suspension & Wheels forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Have you tried searching local junkyards for a rolled or front impact 06/07? You may have some luck finding the ...

  1. #61
    Registered User SKI.WRX's Avatar
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    Have you tried searching local junkyards for a rolled or front impact 06/07? You may have some luck finding the rear calipers there.

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  3. #62
    Lando Calrissian DemonWRX's Avatar
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    unfortunately, most of the 'local' junk yards are not that local. I would love to find a few within say an hour's drive that have WRX/STi carcases for me to pick over, but I have yet to find one.

    Additionally, with a part as critical as brakes, I would just as soon pay full retail than get used which I do not know if it will work correctly. My front 4 pots (also awaiting install) were bought from someone at nastysock, they are NIB and I got them for $500 shipped (about $250 off retail, plus free shipping)
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  4. #63
    Lando Calrissian DemonWRX's Avatar
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    Bump

    So, I had some extra time at work and started internet window shopping on this topic again....see what kind of new developments are out there.

    First, a quick re-cap...I have a 2011 WRX and hate the look of the stock mono-pot brakes. I don't want to go Brembo BBK as 1) they cost too much and 2) the pads are quite pricey as well. Planning on going 06/07 Subaru 4pot/2pot. This requires adapters and different rear rotors.

    I already have:
    GS master cylinder brace (installed)
    StopTech braided steel brake lines (installed)
    Motul 600 fluid (installed)
    NIB 2007 4pot fronts

    I still need to get:
    06/07 2pot rears
    All the pads
    KNS brakes adapters
    Rotors

    I am also planning on powder coating the calipers since I don't want red. As I need to get new rear rotors anyway (need to be 2010 LGT size), I figure why not get nicer rotors while I am at it. Currently on the market, there are Centric blanks, StopTech drilled, and Power Slot slotted in the LGT size. I just got finished chatting with a tech at RSD, and they have informed me that DBA (which is what I really want) is planning on having rear rotors in this size out next spring.

    As I seem to be one of the first 3rd gens going this route, I will be sure to document the swap when I get all the parts in (hoping early next spring).

    As a side note for any other 3rd gen following along, I also found out through this chat that the BRZ premium shares rear rotor size with the LGT, but the BRZ Limited shares rear rotor size with the WRX, so don't get the wrong rears....make sure they are LGT compatible if you are going with the KNS adaptors.
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  5. #64
    Registered User teflon_jones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DemonWRX View Post
    Additionally, with a part as critical as brakes, I would just as soon pay full retail than get used which I do not know if it will work correctly. My front 4 pots (also awaiting install) were bought from someone at nastysock, they are NIB and I got them for $500 shipped (about $250 off retail, plus free shipping)
    What are you worried about? Calipers are a very simple part and if there's anything wrong with them you're going to know it. Either they'll leak or stick, both of which are very obvious and rare on calipers that new. Seals generally only leak due to rubber that's aged a long time (like on my old truck) and if the caliper is stuck you'll be able to tell before you ever bought them since you won't be able to move the piston(s).
    Scott
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  6. #65
    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by teflon_jones View Post
    What are you worried about? Calipers are a very simple part and if there's anything wrong with them you're going to know it. Either they'll leak or stick, both of which are very obvious and rare on calipers that new. Seals generally only leak due to rubber that's aged a long time (like on my old truck) and if the caliper is stuck you'll be able to tell before you ever bought them since you won't be able to move the piston(s).
    Or a brake getting overheated enough, or old hydroscopic fluid left too long. Honestly the only one I've ever had to replace was recently on the 98 outback we currently own. I'm not sure what the hell my wife did to that, but it is an automatic in the mountains.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

  7. #66
    Lando Calrissian DemonWRX's Avatar
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    OK, yes, in theory getting used ones and rebuilding them *should* be just as safe as NIB. However, I am seeing prices around $250 for used and $300 for new....add in the rebuild kit and time to do so, and NIB looks like a better deal....not to mention easier.

    edit: I know I could possibly get much cheaper if I searched junk yards, but as I said before, local is not really local when it comes to junk yards and Pittsburgh.
    Stink-Eye Mob #39
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  8. #67
    "Supreme Subaphile Extraordinairre" ninefourteener's Avatar
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    I've done it all.....

    Started with red 4/2 pots.... upgraded pads, lines, fluid...... still boiled the brakes and warped the rotors at the track.... slid into the gravel at about 90mpg when my pedal hit the floor.

    Upgraded to a Rotora 4-piston BBK up front.... tried both drilled/slotted, and well as just slotted rotors.
    STO brembos in the back with DBA 2657 WRX adapter rotors

    I installed the Grimmspeed master cylinder brace
    stoptech braided lines
    ATE super blue fluid

    The Grimmspeed master cylinder brace is by FAR the best upgrade for how your brakes FEEL. It eliminates the "mush" between the brake pedal and the chassis of the car. You probably don't even realize how mushy it is... you will once you install it though.

    It is also the most difficult install I've ever done..... I rather do 5 turbo swaps than another master cylinder brace. You've been warned.

    Drilled rotors suck.... even high quality ones. They will crack under extreme circumstances... and they won't improve your braking at all. Get slotted rotors or just plain blanks.

    I didn't notice much of a difference with steel braided lines..... but I like them for piece of mind.

    I did notice a difference when I switched to ATE Super blue... I swear by that stuff.
    2006 Subaru WRX-Thread: http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/engine-modifications/165158-ninfourteeners-progress-thread-pics.html
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  9. #68
    Lando Calrissian DemonWRX's Avatar
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    Already installed the master cylinder brace, and have to agree on both counds....install sucks ass, and best mod to improve brake pedal feel. I got the steal lines and the Motul 600 atthe same time, and while I can feel the difference, not sure how much to attribute to each one.

    As for rotors, I am planning on DBA T slot if they ever come out with those for the rear (remeber I need 2010 LGT, which is currently not available).

    As this is a DD, not a track car, I feel confident that the 2/4 pot and DBAs will get me where I want to be. For pads I am still contemplating between Hawk, Ferodo, and maybe one or two others
    Stink-Eye Mob #39
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  10. #69
    "Supreme Subaphile Extraordinairre" ninefourteener's Avatar
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    I've used both Hawk and Carbotech...... both worked well, but were very noisy.

    For the front, I have no choice but to use Rotora.... but for the rear, I actually like the Axxis pads... they grab wel... and they are QUIET for daily driving. They do throw a lot of dust though.
    2006 Subaru WRX-Thread: http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/showthread.php?t=165158
    1978 Subaru BRAT-Thread: http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/engine...ss-thread.html
    2007 Subaru B9Tribeca Ltd (PSM)........1994 Subaru SVX LSi(SOLD)
    WRX 12 sec drag (vs. late model Camaro SS):http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lw0vWdD2cjU
    WRX track racing (catching a stg.2 WRX): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mELeSD1Mi08
    Co-Founder/retired Admin-www.slcsubaru.com

  11. #70
    Registered User GOMEZ's Avatar
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    ^how did you like the Carbotech pads? Did you use them on track days or dd?
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