Rear brakes getting REALLY hot!
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This is a discussion on Rear brakes getting REALLY hot! within the Suspension & Wheels forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; I burnt my finger!..thats someone normal considering brakes do get hot, but not this hot! my front brakes were completely ...

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    Rear brakes getting REALLY hot!

    I burnt my finger!..thats someone normal considering brakes do get hot, but not this hot! my front brakes were completely cooled meaning i could touch them and my rear were probably 500 degrees no joke. I was driving normally, and i noticed the smell, my e-brake was off, but just incase does the ebrake operate on the rear pads? But i probably could have put a turkey a foot away from my brakes and cooked it...thats how bad it was. I just bought the car and i have no clue if its normal for the rear ones to be hot and the front to be cool. So any suggestions?

    Also there was a loud noise comming from my brakes that i normally dont hear...i heard it when i slow down, does they mean they are red hot?

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    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShiddyPB View Post
    but just incase does the ebrake operate on the rear pads?
    No. It operates on the rear wheels but does not use the discs or pads. This doesn't mean a stuck hand brake wouldn't generate tremendous heat though. Check if the car can roll easily with the hand brake down and when in neutral to make sure the hand brake isn't sticking.

    i heard it when i slow down, does they mean they are red hot?
    I understand these words individually but not as combined here.

    Assuming you've done the test above and it's clear:

    If only one side in the rear is getting hot, suspect a dragging caliper. If both sides are getting hot, I'd take it to have it looked at, since I don't understand the distribution valving enough to troubleshoot it (maybe someone else does and can help).
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    I understand these words individually but not as combined here.
    Sorry, i meant is the noise being caused because of the brake temperature?

    i suspect the previous owner put them in wrong or too tight because he changed the rotors himself.

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    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    The noise could be due to dragging or debris etc.

    Start with the hand brake. See if the car rolls freely with the hand brake down. This will exclude the hand brake as a source. If so, next see if one or both sides get hot when driving.
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    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShiddyPB View Post
    i suspect the previous owner put them in wrong or too tight because he changed the rotors himself.
    It sounds like something is installed wrong, that's for sure. Last week I was doing some pretty hard driving and my front brakes were literally smoking for 20 minutes after I stopped driving and my rear brakes were just warm. They don't do a lot!

    I'm pull the wheels off and pull out the pads and see if things are installed right.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShiddyPB View Post
    Rear brakes getting REALLY hot! I burnt my finger!..
    Why did you touch it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by teflon_jones View Post
    Last week I was doing some pretty hard driving and my front brakes were literally smoking for 20 minutes after I stopped driving
    If your brakes are smoking you shouldn't really stop. You should drive around slower and let them cool. If you stop while they are hot, that's a good way to warp the rotors. When you stop the pads are at one spot of the rotor. The rest of the rotor is uncovered to cool of while the pads insulate that part which is covered. High, low, warp.
    I work on vehicles that make 650hp and 2400ft/lbs.

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    sound like the piston is hanging up (can be dirt/grime but usually rust built up)- the calipers can be rebuilt but often it's cheaper just to replace the entire caliper (if your not doing the work yourself)
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    Here is a silly question - have you checked the pads and do they have any lining left?
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    Quote Originally Posted by indytruckboy View Post
    If your brakes are smoking you shouldn't really stop. You should drive around slower and let them cool. If you stop while they are hot, that's a good way to warp the rotors. When you stop the pads are at one spot of the rotor. The rest of the rotor is uncovered to cool of while the pads insulate that part which is covered. High, low, warp.
    Sorry, but that's incorrect. The temperature differential where the pad is will definitely not cause warping or any other issues. Warping is caused by a sudden, dramatic change in temperature. That will not happen if you simply stop your car and let it cool. The pad and rotor will simply slowly cool back to their original shape.

    By far the most common reason for rotor warpage is when people get their rotors hot and then get water on them, normally via a puddle or it could also just be from driving in the rain. The cold water causes the sudden, dramatic temperature change when it splashes on the hot rotor and that makes it warp.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DUB View Post
    Why did you touch it?
    I smelled something. So i weant smelling around the car, and i touched the front ones, they were cool so i assumed the rear brakes were ok. Originally i thought it was something from the motor, im having all sorts of problems with the motor...

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    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by teflon_jones View Post
    Sorry, but that's incorrect. The temperature differential where the pad is will definitely not cause warping or any other issues. Warping is caused by a sudden, dramatic change in temperature. That will not happen if you simply stop your car and let it cool. The pad and rotor will simply slowly cool back to their original shape.

    By far the most common reason for rotor warpage is when people get their rotors hot and then get water on them, normally via a puddle or it could also just be from driving in the rain. The cold water causes the sudden, dramatic temperature change when it splashes on the hot rotor and that makes it warp.
    It will actually leave a deposit when you come to a complete stop. You will be able to see the outline of the pad from while it was still clamped, and it will likely cause a vibration similar to warping. I agree though, warping is pretty uncommon with modern disks.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    Check if the car can roll easily with the hand brake down and when in neutral to make sure the hand brake isn't sticking.

    If only one side in the rear is getting hot, suspect a dragging caliper. If both sides are getting hot, I'd take it to have it looked at, since I don't understand the distribution valving enough to troubleshoot it (maybe someone else does and can help).
    Quote Originally Posted by mycologist View Post
    Here is a silly question - have you checked the pads and do they have any lining left?
    You need to answer these questions before we can help. Jack the car up in the rear and see if one or both wheels is binding without the handbrake on. Take off the wheels and look at the pads.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
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    Quote Originally Posted by mycologist View Post
    You need to answer these questions before we can help. Jack the car up in the rear and see if one or both wheels is binding without the handbrake on. Take off the wheels and look at the pads.
    Well the pads suck, the calipers are rusty and seemed to be more closed than the front ones. Also the rotors look kind different and not as shiny as they were when i bought it. Hand brake is fine.

    Thanks everyone for helping! Im gonna get some new pads and have the calipers...re-done.
    Last edited by ShiddyPB; 11-17-2008 at 06:51 PM.

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    Question Similar problem... help?

    Our '02 WRX wagon's rear right brake would occassionally get stuck and heat up considerably. We would also sometimes hear the brake chirp (at least I thought that was what the sound was since I figured the pads were wearing out).

    Took it to Monroe, cleaned the pistons, same problem again on the way home. Went back, got the rear right caliper replaced and lines checked, problem solved. Or so we thought...

    Maybe four or five months since then, we've started smelling the brakes again. Now it's sometimes the rear left brake, or both. And the chirping from the right brake has returned. I should add that the folks at Monroe said the existing pads were fine so they used them with the new caliper. I would think that they would notice if the pads were worn though...

    Any thoughts? Is this a common problem with WRXs?

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