SS brake line install turned into nightmare!
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This is a discussion on SS brake line install turned into nightmare! within the Suspension & Wheels forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; So I install SS lines all around and I guess the brake reservoir had gotten a little low. Well upon ...

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    Registered User boosted scoob's Avatar
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    Unhappy SS brake line install turned into nightmare!

    So I install SS lines all around and I guess the brake reservoir had gotten a little low. Well upon bleeding the brakes right after install, the pedal would not hold pressure after each bleed. Kept dropping to the floor on the first pump. I must have bled 10 times all around (3 times each brake too). I did the right order too RF-LR-RR-LF. And I DO know how to correctly bleed with the other person in the car.

    So the next day I go at it again. This time I decide to bleed the master cylinder. It's pumping out all fluid after the 3rd push in the pedal so I put the lines back in. Then bleed the brakes another 10 times (3 each brake) Now I am out of fluid (3 bottles) and I'm stumped and a bit pissed too. Upon driving now the pedal drops to the floor on first push...no brakes. If i pump it many times, then push down, I come to a stop only when the pedal is at the floor.

    Here are a few things I noticed while bleeding...
    -The ABS unit makes allot of air sounds when the pedal is pumped.
    -There are absolutely no leaks in the brake system. I am sure of that.
    -The left rear calliper makes a faint clicking sound when the pedal is pumped.
    -When I was bleeding the front brakes, I was always getting massive amounts of air at first, then straight fluid. The rears weren't that bad. When it was time for a front one again, same results every time.
    -I hear no hissing from any of the SS lines indicating air is getting in

    ...also please be aware I have done an extensive search on this forum for brake bleeding.
    PLEASE SOMEONE HELP! I am stumped and without a vehicle!

    ...oh and if someone can tell me if the mityvac can help solve my problem I would appreciate cause I bought one, but just would up doing it the old fashioned way.
    02 WRX - XS Power header/UP/TBE, XS Power FMIC, MBC@15psi, Ported TD04L, Perrin shortram, Alum Radiator - 13.35@101
    05 Mini Cooper S - Bone stock
    95 Mustang GT conv. (Work In Progress) - BBK LT headers & h-pipe, dumped Flowmasters, Kirban AFPR, BBK subframe braces, 6-point rollcage, FMS springs, 70/30 struts, 50/50 shocks, K&N intake

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    Registered User boosted scoob's Avatar
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    SS line install and now brake nightmares!

    So I install SS lines all around and I guess the brake reservoir had gotten a little low. Well upon bleeding the brakes right after install, the pedal would not hold pressure after each bleed. Kept dropping to the floor on the first pump. I must have bled 10 times all around (3 times each brake too). I did the right order too RF-LR-RR-LF. And I DO know how to correctly bleed with the other person in the car.

    So the next day I go at it again. This time I decide to bleed the master cylinder. It's pumping out all fluid after the 3rd push in the pedal so I put the lines back in. Then bleed the brakes another 10 times (3 each brake) Now I am out of fluid (3 bottles) and I'm stumped and a bit pissed too. Upon driving now the pedal drops to the floor on first push...no brakes. If i pump it many times, then push down, I come to a stop only when the pedal is at the floor.

    Here are a few things I noticed while bleeding...
    -The ABS unit makes allot of air sounds when the pedal is pumped.
    -There are absolutely no leaks in the brake system. I am sure of that.
    -The left rear calliper makes a faint clicking sound when the pedal is pumped.
    -When I was bleeding the front brakes, I was always getting massive amounts of air at first, then straight fluid. The rears weren't that bad. When it was time for a front one again, same results every time.
    -I hear no hissing from any of the SS lines indicating air is getting in

    ...also please be aware I have done an extensive search on this forum for brake bleeding.
    PLEASE SOMEONE HELP! I am stumped and without a vehicle!

    ...oh and if someone can tell me if the mityvac can help solve my problem I would appreciate cause I bought one, but just would up doing it the old fashioned way.
    02 WRX - XS Power header/UP/TBE, XS Power FMIC, MBC@15psi, Ported TD04L, Perrin shortram, Alum Radiator - 13.35@101
    05 Mini Cooper S - Bone stock
    95 Mustang GT conv. (Work In Progress) - BBK LT headers & h-pipe, dumped Flowmasters, Kirban AFPR, BBK subframe braces, 6-point rollcage, FMS springs, 70/30 struts, 50/50 shocks, K&N intake

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    OK someone help this guy out. I have bled my brakes a number of times but use speed bleeders and haven't run into any issues. Is there a non-dealer Subie mechanic where you live that you can call?

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    Registered User boosted scoob's Avatar
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    Sorry this is not a repost. Apparently bleeding brakes doesn't belong in the service and maintenance section . Feel free to reply to this post though. I SERIOUSLY need help! I want to figure this out before I potentially drop $200 on a mechanic.
    02 WRX - XS Power header/UP/TBE, XS Power FMIC, MBC@15psi, Ported TD04L, Perrin shortram, Alum Radiator - 13.35@101
    05 Mini Cooper S - Bone stock
    95 Mustang GT conv. (Work In Progress) - BBK LT headers & h-pipe, dumped Flowmasters, Kirban AFPR, BBK subframe braces, 6-point rollcage, FMS springs, 70/30 struts, 50/50 shocks, K&N intake

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    Registered User boosted scoob's Avatar
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    I would rather avoid taking it in to a mechanic and paying loads of cash. I'm going to tackle this again later in the week. I have the Mustang to drive for now, but it sucks cause that is strictly a track car. I did notice after doing a search on wrxforums.com that I wrote down the wrong bleeding procedure. It's supposed to be RF-LR-LF-RR. Crap. Would that be the cause of all this air still in the lines?

    Another thing I'm thinking would be that my master cyllinder is shot cause the pedal has been down to the floor many times already.

    Also can someone explain something about the mityvac....

    I used it 3 times to bleed one of the front brakes and all three times it pulled out air/fluid mix whereas if I do the ol' fashioned pump, hold, bleed, release way, I get air then straight fluid. Is the mityvac a better option here?
    02 WRX - XS Power header/UP/TBE, XS Power FMIC, MBC@15psi, Ported TD04L, Perrin shortram, Alum Radiator - 13.35@101
    05 Mini Cooper S - Bone stock
    95 Mustang GT conv. (Work In Progress) - BBK LT headers & h-pipe, dumped Flowmasters, Kirban AFPR, BBK subframe braces, 6-point rollcage, FMS springs, 70/30 struts, 50/50 shocks, K&N intake

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    Sound strange.. Either you still have air in the system or you have a leak. I can't think of anything else..

    Check again for leaks, and try bleeding again.. Make sure you give the person inside the car presice order to when he should pump, hold and release..

    Sorry but it's the only thing I can think of..
    Silver -02 Impreza WRX

  8. #7
    Registered User QuickSilver's Avatar
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    I've seen the DIY posts on scoobymods.com and followed them too during my SS line/pad/fluid install.

    I did teh work at a class at a local city college...bunch of lifts and plenty of tool and a couple of instructors making sure we don't do anything stupid.

    The directions said when replacing fluid, to suck up all the fluid from the brake reservoir and then fill and bleed (or something like that, this was ~3 years ago)...so I did..when I was "done", I took the car out to test...pedal to the floor on the first push..barely stopped the car.

    So I go back and this time call the instructor over (these guys are veterans who taught autoshop for decades). I explain in detial what I did...they instantly told me that I should never let the reservoir go empty because that allows air into the master cylinder, which is very difficult to bleed. ??? the DIY never mentioned that.

    Here's where I'm absolutely no help to you at all: I kinda forgot what they did to help me. I think the instructors tried to fill the system and then kinda banged on the master cylinder to free up the air bubbles...and then we went thru the bleeding process all over again. Eventually I got good pedal and it was all good.

    If you're saying you bled properly, I think you may have air in your master cylinder. They told me if significant air gets in there, the cylinder needs to be removed and bled "manually"???

    good luck. hope that help at least a bit.

    Hg.
    '02 Plat. Wagon, Manual

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    Registered User Quack's Avatar
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    either air or a leak.

    just used the Power Bleeder for the 1st time on Zoophagy's RS, and worked perfectly. from what i've read on various forums, it'll get the air out of the lines.

    http://www.machv.com/motpowbleed.html

    i got mine from Summit Racing, which is local to me.
    Last edited by Quack; 04-05-2005 at 06:22 AM.

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    Registered User 2point5ohyes's Avatar
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    also if when you are bleeding the manual way keep a hose on the caliper bleeder and the end in brake fluid. that way you can prevent some air pushing into the caliper but also you keep the fluid your pushing out and do not waste so much. dont know if you did this but it sounded like you were goind through alot of fluid
    2000 2.5RS I <3 JDM IH8M

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    Registered User boosted scoob's Avatar
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    thanks for the replies. Good info. Here's a few things I was told around my workcenter...

    -It could be the o-rings on the banjo bolts from SS lines to calipers.
    -Could be that air bubbles trapped in high-part of caliper. Remove calipers from spindles and use mityvac that I have on each of them with SS lines still attached.
    -Just bleed the cr@p out of the lines. Reuse the brake fluid so as not to waste any more money.

    I'm gonna jump back on this during the weekend. I sure hope all goes well.
    02 WRX - XS Power header/UP/TBE, XS Power FMIC, MBC@15psi, Ported TD04L, Perrin shortram, Alum Radiator - 13.35@101
    05 Mini Cooper S - Bone stock
    95 Mustang GT conv. (Work In Progress) - BBK LT headers & h-pipe, dumped Flowmasters, Kirban AFPR, BBK subframe braces, 6-point rollcage, FMS springs, 70/30 struts, 50/50 shocks, K&N intake

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    Good luck.. You have to be on the right track.. Keep us updated
    Silver -02 Impreza WRX

  13. #12
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    Letting the MC go dry is the likely source of your bleeding problems. The MC probably now has air in it and is most likely going to have to be bench bled.

    Read this http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=641104, if that doesn't work- probably best to get ti to a shop.

    Good luck!

    Big Sky
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  14. #13
    Registered User Quack's Avatar
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    Motive Power Bleeder works wonders

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    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quack
    Motive Power Bleeder works wonders
    [hijack on] Mine works great to, but putting the thing n the master cylinder is like a houndini trick. I was thinking about buying a spare master cylinder cap and "rigging" it up to the motive so you could just screw the cap on. You have any secrest on how you attach yours? [hijack off ]
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

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    Registered User Quack's Avatar
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    yeah, use the 0107 kit (3-prong ford)

    i had the 0101 (universal kit) but it was leaking, so i exchanged it today for the 0107 once i saw the the WRX is more of a pain (AC Lines) than Zoophagy's RS. good thing too, my pads & fluids get here today
    Last edited by Quack; 04-07-2005 at 09:19 AM.

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