WRX Wagon Aluminum control arm install - Page 3
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This is a discussion on WRX Wagon Aluminum control arm install within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; Originally Posted by psychobooe Big Sky, You're a gift to the Subaru community. Your knowledge of all things suspension/brakes is ...

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by psychobooe
    Big Sky,

    You're a gift to the Subaru community. Your knowledge of all things suspension/brakes is without comparison.

    psycho
    +1 thanks.

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  3. #32
    Registered User Wrinkleboi's Avatar
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    dont want to muck up this thread too much but maybe this will help others looking for guidance.
    i finally got it off... whether it was my raw persistance or the WD40 working overnight... i spent about 10 hours on this yesterday and about an hour so far today and it finally came off!!!
    just thought i'd post some photos of the carnage so nobody things i'm completely incompetent...
    as far as greasing the new one... where do i grease and wehre do i not grease? i naturally greased the cylindrical ball joint housing before sliding it into the knuckle, if for nothing else then for rust prevention in the future. right or wrong?

    anyways, pics:






    -2003 Blue WRX, complete 2007 STi Engine/Drivetrain transplant - Pic 1 | Pic 2 | Pic 3 | Pic 4 (new!)
    -1994 Black Supra TT 6MT - Pic | Build/Restoration Thread: 67mm, Fuel, Painted Engine Bay, Fuse Box Relocation, Wire Tuck, etc.

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  4. #33
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    The ball joint is internally greased, but some into the knuckle might prevent what happened to yours.

    Our roads may suck here in the winter (no salt), but we don't have to contend w/ rust issues like that
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  5. #34
    Registered User Hybrid-X's Avatar
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    Very nice writeup. One thing I'll add is that if you're planning to get an ALK, do it while installing these babies. I did and it was so much easier not having to do the same thing twice. :x Also, the fact that I don't have a subframe anymore made it somewhat easier.
    Great spirits will always encounter violent opposition from mediocre minds.
    Gas, grass, or ass. Nobody rides for free.

  6. #35
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    I'm having the same trouble with my 140000km '02. How the h*ll do you get that ball joint out?

    -Walter

  7. #36
    Registered User Wrinkleboi's Avatar
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    If its like mine then rust is the culprit. Get some PB Blaster or something made to dissolve rust, and use it liberally. The longer you let it soak the better, but I'd say spray it down well every couple of hours. Also try to pull down straight on the joint. I dont think it helped that I was actually prying on mine at a slight angle, not perfectly downward.

    -2003 Blue WRX, complete 2007 STi Engine/Drivetrain transplant - Pic 1 | Pic 2 | Pic 3 | Pic 4 (new!)
    -1994 Black Supra TT 6MT - Pic | Build/Restoration Thread: 67mm, Fuel, Painted Engine Bay, Fuse Box Relocation, Wire Tuck, etc.

    www.TriStateTuners.com

  8. #37
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    There is a seam in the knuckel that the ball joint bolt tightens to capture the ball joint- if you have someone pry this seam w/ a large flathead screwdriver or pry bar (don't have them go to crazy prying) while you have a large rubber mallet striking down on top of the arm.

    If it's very rusted, your in for a battle.
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  9. #38
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    It has defeated me. I'm reinstalling all the old crap on my car. No aluminum arms for me.

    I've broken 2 screw drivers, gone through half a can of rust remover. Used everything I can possibly think of to get this thing out. Including iron wedges.

    The ball joint descends maybe 1/32 of an inch but that is all. I give up.

  10. #39
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    Isn't is possible to change these things without removing the subframe??? there is a plastic cover on the subframe that you can take off to get access to the mount bolts.

    My control arms came in today finally, just waiting on my ball joints now... I'm going to see if I can do it w/o removing subframe.

  11. #40
    Registered User Wrinkleboi's Avatar
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    the subframe takes 10 minutes to remove (5 with air tools), and i can only imaging it will be in the way during the install if you leave it... so why not just take it off?

    -2003 Blue WRX, complete 2007 STi Engine/Drivetrain transplant - Pic 1 | Pic 2 | Pic 3 | Pic 4 (new!)
    -1994 Black Supra TT 6MT - Pic | Build/Restoration Thread: 67mm, Fuel, Painted Engine Bay, Fuse Box Relocation, Wire Tuck, etc.

    www.TriStateTuners.com

  12. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wrinkleboi
    i can only imaging it will be in the way during the install if you leave it...
    Well I guess we will find out, Seems like if they went out of their way to make it to where you could take it off without removing the subframe then why not?

  13. #42
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    You can access the rear bushing through the subframe, but it needs to come off to remove/install it.

    When your installing (removing) the control arms remove the arm out of the knuckle by the method outlined here- there is no need for a pickle fork/ball joint remover.
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  14. #43
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    Had to laugh a bit at 'bludgeon'

    Perhaps doing this 'sooner' rather than 'later' is a good idea.

    I only had half a New Jersey winter.

    I do admire the OP's persistence. That thing is seriously rusted.

    I'd expect Elise like handling after that much pain

  15. #44
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    The OP's arms came out/went in easy Wrinkleboi on the other hand !!!!

    My wagon handles just like an Elise (well it would if it weighed 1892 lbs
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  16. #45
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    Damn, everything has come out relatively easy, except for that damn bolt and nut on the bushing. It must be torqued at over 200ft/lbs or something.

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