WRX Wagon Aluminum control arm install - Page 2
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This is a discussion on WRX Wagon Aluminum control arm install within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; Originally posted by Midwestrider Ok dumb question here.. what is benfit to doing this.. stronger part? Also what year GC8 ...

  1. #16
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Midwestrider
    Ok dumb question here.. what is benfit to doing this.. stronger part?

    Also what year GC8 did you source these from and the cost of them?

    Eric
    Not dumb. The aluminum arm is slightly lighter (~1.5 lbs)- less unsprung weight, but the main advantage is it's much stiffer. The front arm (transverse link) is just like a big bushing- the aluminum one deflects much less.

    These arm can only be found off of the JDM GC8's- WRX's and STi's. I see takeoffs (used) for ~ $400 for everything, brand new is close to $800.

    They are kind of hard to find (as you can imagine), but some of the bigger car importers- Gr8wheels, East Coast Scooby, others get them fairly regularly.

    Big Sky

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    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Dan_jast
    basically, its stronger, so you will be able to corner harder/better. Theres probably some more pros to it to but i dont know.

    And i got a question, Do the USDM STI have this part on stock, i would think they do but i never got to look under a usdm sti.
    The USDM STi do have aluminum control arms oem- these won't fit on the wagon, but will fit on the WRX sedan. The sedan arms are longer (wider track).

    Big Sky

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    was the improvement very noticeable? did you have to adjust your alignement settings for this piece to work properly>?

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    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    Originally posted by socrates42
    was the improvement very noticeable? did you have to adjust your alignement settings for this piece to work properly>?
    Noticable at the higher end of driving- 8/10ths+, had a set on my sedan as well. It wouldn't be the first piece I'd replace, but a improvement in performance for sure.

    Definitely have an alignment done, my toe was off quite a bit after the install.

    Big Sky

  6. #20
    Registered User psychobooe's Avatar
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    Big Sky,

    You're a gift to the Subaru community. Your knowledge of all things suspension/brakes is without comparison.

    psycho
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  7. #21
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    [blushes] thank you kind sir [still blushing ]
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

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    Registered User Wrinkleboi's Avatar
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    ok so... yeah... i'm mid install. and you said to 'tap' the ball joint out of the hub with a hammer. well i'm smaking the chit out of it and its not coming out. what am i missing here? i removed the 14mm bolt to loosen the hub's grip on the ball joint but lets face it, we're dealing with a solid piece of cast iron here.
    any help right away would be really appreciated.
    thanks,
    bryan

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  9. #23
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    take a small pry bar or very large screw driver and slip it into the slot and gently pry open- then tap on top of the arm. That should do it
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

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    Registered User Wrinkleboi's Avatar
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    its cast iron!!
    i took a screwdriver and pryed a bit until i heard a cracking sound. hopefully it was the screwdriver but i dont see any damage to it.
    i've been smacking the crap out of the thing and its just not budging. thumbs down to crappy design.
    please check this thread or your PMs regularly today becuase i really need my car back together asap!
    thanks for the help so far, if you have any other ideas please let me know.
    thanks,
    bryan
    p.s. is the ball joint the same on the stock wrx as the spt control arms? if so i could leave the ball joint in place and just replace the arm itself? just another option if i cant figure this out...

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  11. #25
    Registered User Wrinkleboi's Avatar
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    and i noticed you keep using the term 'tap'... dont you think 'bludgeon' or something similar would be a more accurate term to describe the action required?

    -2003 Blue WRX, complete 2007 STi Engine/Drivetrain transplant - Pic 1 | Pic 2 | Pic 3 | Pic 4 (new!)
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  12. #26
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    Do you have someone that can help? Have that person put a large screw/prybar in the crack and then you "tap" on top of the arm. Might want to pb blast the thing as well- might be rusted.
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  13. #27
    Registered User Wrinkleboi's Avatar
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    after much violent 'tapping' i concluded that this just wasnt going to do the job on my 50k mile old car.
    i wedged a bar in between the knuckle and control arm and pryed on it... with a 5 foot extension of course. this finally popped one of them out. unfortunately it did not work for the other one after much effort and WD40.
    i'm still stuck... cant believe this.
    bryan

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    -1994 Black Supra TT 6MT - Pic | Build/Restoration Thread: 67mm, Fuel, Painted Engine Bay, Fuse Box Relocation, Wire Tuck, etc.

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  14. #28
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    Do you se the "crack" I'm talking about? If you have someone pry this open while you tap- it should come.

    Was the other one rusted bad?
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  15. #29
    Registered User Wrinkleboi's Avatar
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    yes it was bright orange when it came out. if yours came out looking like it does in teh comparison shot you took of the two types then yeah, i'm in a whole different ballpark right now which may explain my difficulties.
    i do see the crack you're talking about however getting a screwdriver in there doesnt seem to really open it up at all.
    lets keep the dialoge open though because i'm desperate to figure this out.
    bryan

    -2003 Blue WRX, complete 2007 STi Engine/Drivetrain transplant - Pic 1 | Pic 2 | Pic 3 | Pic 4 (new!)
    -1994 Black Supra TT 6MT - Pic | Build/Restoration Thread: 67mm, Fuel, Painted Engine Bay, Fuse Box Relocation, Wire Tuck, etc.

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  16. #30
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    That crack or seam tightens as the 14mm bolt tightens and locks the ball joint in- if you put a screwdriver in there and twist it a little- it should pry open slightly. It's going to probably take people to do this- have one open up the seam as best they can- while the other one smacks the top of the control arm.

    Yeah your in a different boat as far as rust goes. I've found PB blaster to work much better than WD40- working it up into the top portion of the ball joint should help too.
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

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