In for the review!
This is a discussion on DIY: Alignment, thats right align your car at home with simple tools. within the Suspension and Handling forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; In for the review! Good call....
In for the review!
After reading up on how the ALK and RCAK help with the roll and Dynamic Camber under suspension load, I decided to try something. I had been throwing camber at the front to help with turn in and to dial out understeer, but since these parts were supposed to cure that by themselves, I decided to dial back the front camber to -1.5 deg.
So currently running:
Toe at 0 all around.
Good call on the alignment.
I think you'll be okay around -1.5. What's your spring rate at? Are your sways pretty aggressive?
Our cars, even with the mods you just put on, just don't have "nice" dynamic suspension characteristics. AWD cars are missing most of the 'features' that traditionally give RWD cars that dynamic camber as they go through the turn. Those mods are a good start though, no doubt.
Look into specC top hats by chance? They'd be a great complement to the setup.
Just bought the whiteline com-c tophats for the front. Also ordered Group N for the rear. Gonna try to go -1.5 in the front but idk how much camber i can get in the back. I want -1.0 in the rear, will i be able to achieve this without camber bolts?
2005 WRX (Silver) SoCal Subie
Blobeye Syndicate #1093
http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/builds...al-05-wrx.html - Build Thread
http://www.flickr.com/photos/34009765@N06/ - For whatever pics i take.
Mikie13-Spend money on hookers and blow. That's a better intake.
Did a little suspension synopsis:
PSA: Whiteline ALK (Anti Lift Kit) and RCAK (Roll Center Adjustment kit) are amazing
Definitely wanna try this in the near future after all these pot holes get fixed
2012 DGM WRX - Stage Two 93 - Stink Eye Mob #908
The Epic Life of Emily the WRX
OP, caster is not "technically" adjustable, but you can get about +-0.5° of adjustment from the transverse link.
To do this you loosen the two bolts that go into the chassis through the transverse link, then pry forward on the transverse link (to gain caster), or pull back (to decrease it). Then tighten down the bolts when set to the desired setting.
Oh, some people mistakenly call the transverse link a ALK, when a ALK is actually a modified transverse link.
I've been doing my own alignments for a while. Nice write up!
Since my signature is getting full, I'll leave this here:
DIY: Subaru Ball joint removal tool for around $18 + 1 lug nut