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This is a discussion on DCCD Explained within the STi Transmission/Drivetrain forums, part of the STi Technical Forum category; Originally Posted by greatwhite822 Hi guys, I'm new in subaru and I need some help here, I am getting some ...

  1. #16
    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by greatwhite822
    Hi guys,

    I'm new in subaru and I need some help here, I am getting some cranking noise from the DCCD in auto mode while turning.Does that means that central diff is going down and need to be replaced.
    The car has 55mil but have no idea what has been done on this car becouse I bought it two month ago.
    Thanks
    How sharp of a turn?
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  3. #17
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    [QUOTE=idipskoalmint;2403225]How sharp of a turn?[/QUOTE

    I can't make "U" turn because whole car is shaking .
    While turning 90degree there is a squeaks(cranks) coming up from below and rear inside wheel(left turn -left rear wheel) is lightly spining .the DCCD is set in auto mode.

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    Don't use it

    Always keep it in auto unless going down hill and you want 50-50 awd. Subaru made a big mistake by putting that feature in the sti. it hurts the car using it when going slow and in turning situations.

  5. #19
    Moderator YBNormal07's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrpad View Post
    Always keep it in auto unless going down hill and you want 50-50 awd. Subaru made a big mistake by putting that feature in the sti. it hurts the car using it when going slow and in turning situations.
    The DCCD manual settings really weren't intended for everday driving. For snow and gravel though, it is a very useful feature. Saying "don't use it", I'm assuming you mean "use it for when it is intended"?
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  6. #20
    Registered User tarmacsti's Avatar
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    I have the axact same symptoms with my sti... been to the dealer a couple of times about this and they say its normal... sure as hell dont feel it, but they say all the sti's with dccd does it and they have not yet had one with any complications.
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    Registered User Glick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tarmacsti View Post
    I have the axact same symptoms with my sti... been to the dealer a couple of times about this and they say its normal... sure as hell dont feel it, but they say all the sti's with dccd does it and they have not yet had one with any complications.
    Either leave it in Auto mode, or apply the E-Brake one click while making sharp turns at low speeds.

  8. #22
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    If you throw it in open it reduces it a ton. Its all about the different wheel speeds and how the dccd forces the wheels to spin at closer speeds to each other depending on the setting. If you have it open it will allow more of a difference between wheels allowing you to turn without the tires squealing and the car hopping like a 4x4 pick up does.

    I heard only 07+ have this problem with the torsen center diff but it might be all STIs. If I am making a quick U turn I pop it in open and it doesn't happen anymore. Also full lock is great for deep snow.
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    hey

    [QUOTE=WRC_Obsessed;1121543]Link works for me. I copy/pasted the content from the link, no pics though.
    my name is adrian and well i have a 2007 wrx wagon beefed up in which i have a complete 2005 sti trans and axle and di

    fferential installed but i never got the dccd unit and my wheeles are on lock which im 50 50 i believe and im hoping to find this unit ...where should i go for it...
    DCCD Primer Part I
    by: Seth Cooper
    The Introduction

  10. #24
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    This link is to an Audi video that demonstrates the concept of torque vectoring and brake system intervention as a method to improve handling. It's not, from my understanding, exactly the same manner in which an STI DCCD operates but the physics of it are similar enough That it may help folks gain a mental picture of the process.

    Audi: The quattro principle - YouTube

    If anyone knows of a similar DCCD specific animation like this I'm sure we would all like to see it. Is there such thing as a Dyno rack for 4Wd vehicles that allows for independent measurement? It seems like this would be an easy thing to quantify if someone just put the car on a rack and tested the different modes under various levels of resistance (torque).

  11. #25
    Registered User Doctor K's Avatar
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    This is the best explanation of DCCD because it uses situational examples of each setting. You don't need to understand Japanese to understand what's going on here. I happen to understand Japanese so it makes it's a no brainer for me, but even with just the video portion, I could understand.

    Subaru Impreza STI JDM and DCCD use - YouTube

    EDIT - I'm working on a translation for you guys.

    EDIT 2 - here's my rough translation of what the dude is saying in each run. I'm missing a few tidbits here and there, but here's the gist of it. Also note that in each run, VCD is OFF.

    1st run – Auto Mode – If you press the brakes hard and loan the front end, the car will typically spin in this fashion. It won’t spin like this if VCD is on. Point: get use to the feeling of the rear end coming out.

    2nd run – Auto Mode – it will spin in this fashion. The rear spins out easily. Even when you apply the gas, the front wheel engagement lags a bit and this is what happens. Next, we will see what happens when we react to the moment the car begins to spin easily.

    3rd run – Auto Mode – in this training, we will apply the gas in order to control the car through the turn. Even if you’re scared, press the gas. As long as you’re on the gas the car won’t spin out.

    4rd run – Auto Mode – in this run, the rear drifts out, at that moment, counter steer and lightly apply gas at the same time and you can generally take a good line through the turn. Point: don’t go full throttle.

    5th run – Auto Mode – this is the pace you want to go through a turn, I’m really applying the gas here and going out of course a little, which I discourage, but the point is to load the front good and then counter steer/apply gas and the car will pull through via the front wheel bias.

    6th run – Manual Lock – in this mode the rear does not want to drift out very much. Point: the stability of the car increases. Next run I will go faster.

    7th run – Manual Lock – there is a little more understeer than Auto mode and is more stable. There isn’t big movement in the car’s core. Point: in slippery or wet conditions, it is more stable (than Auto Mode).

    8th run – Manual Lock – in this mode, it is more stable but there’s too much traction on dry road. Again, it’s better when the road is slippery for this mode.

    9th run – Free Mode – it moves like it’s a RWD car. Most of the power is towards the rear and the car will move in this manner.

    10th run – Auto Plus Mode – this mode is similar to Manual Lock. But more than Lock Mode, the direct-feeling is less and for slippery/wet roads, Lock Mode may be better.

    11th run – Auto Minus Mode – the rear drifts pretty easily. The turn-in is easier and the steering input is good.
    Last edited by Doctor K; 08-30-2011 at 04:31 PM.
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  12. #26
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    Thanks for that link. Makes sense with your translation.

  13. #27
    Registered User lolricer's Avatar
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    so..... auto all the time on pavement and auto (-) is for light fluffy steering that can be darty but feels really nice on new smooth pavement.
    auto (+) for uneven pavement or rough. gives a sense of stability at 70+.
    auto in the middle; never, or when the car is loaned
    I drive; never, or warmup, or in a parking lot full of people you don't want to bump into.
    sport; never, or going up hill with a/c on high, or trying to cool down tubro.
    sport sharp prettymuch always.
    for fastest acceleration times; when you hit second, push the manu and have the lock all the way off. this way you are only driving the rears which is faster?
    haven't been in snow or slipped a tire on the dirt yet.

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