2008 STi Starts Normally and Then Immediately Dies
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This is a discussion on 2008 STi Starts Normally and Then Immediately Dies within the STi Technical Forum forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Out of the blue my 2008 STi will start normally, shoot for 1500 RPM, and then immediately die. I drove ...

  1. #1
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    2008 STi Starts Normally and Then Immediately Dies

    Out of the blue my 2008 STi will start normally, shoot for 1500 RPM, and then immediately die. I drove the car the night before and everything was fine and went to start it in the morning and it won't stay lit. Nothing appears to be wet under the hood but we did have light rain that evening.

    Video with my foot off the pedal
    2008 Subaru STi Starts and then Dies #1 - YouTube

    Video with my foot on the pedal ~10% (same thing happens even with a jump start)
    2008 Subaru STi Starts and then Dies #2 - YouTube

    Under hood picture with the location of where I measured fuel pressure marked in yellow
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...209_081338.jpg

    The car is a 2008 STi with 19,000 miles, GT3076R turbo, custom up/down pipes, FMIC, Abaco 85mm MAF, DeatschWerks 850cc fuel injectors, Walbro GSS342 fuel pump, and Crawford air to oil separator kit. It has run strong since I bought the car without any starting problems. For about a month I have had a random and mildly rough idle that I attributed to plugs but hadn't gotten around to changing them.

    Things I have done and then tried to restart it:
    Jump starting it with another car since the battery was low
    Resetting the ECU (checked for codes first)
    Uninstalling the Access Port reverting back to stock calibration
    Reinstalling the calibration
    Disconnecting the battery
    Using my two other set of keys
    Disconnected the MAF
    Reconnected the MAF
    Checked fuel pressure and stays at ~45 psi (see pic for hose I tapped into)
    Replaced spark plugs with new NGK Iridiums
    Checked for obvious loose parts or split plumbing

    There was no change whatsoever even when putting it back to the stock calibration which is weird because it has a different MAF and injectors.

    Things I have monitored via Access Port:
    MAF, starts in the dirt and goes up after starting
    MAP, starts at baro and goes down after starting
    Crank SW: starts at 0 and goes to 1 after starting
    Cam SW: starts at 0 and goes to 1 after starting
    Intake temp: close to ambient
    Coolant temp: close to ambient
    Inj PW: starts low, goes up after starting
    Calculated load: starts low, goes up after starting (0.4 g/rev)
    Timing: Within normal range
    There are no codes stored. The only code that came in was after I disconnected the MAF and received a intake temp code.

    Nothing seems out of the ordinary but the thing just won't stay lit. It is almost acting as if the ECU is shutting it down after a prescribed amount of time because of how repeatable it is. I have now tried to start the car a 100 or so times and it does the same thing every time. It also seems like it has a fixed amount of fuel and timing it will provide until the crank and the cam are synchronized and then it falls on its face.

    Ideas, thoughts, magic? Thanks in advance.

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  3. #2
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    How did you know the battery was low, and why was it low?
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    How did you know the battery was low, and why was it low?
    If the car is not driven for long periods of time or it is below 50 F out the tiny Braille battery cranks over a little slower than normal. I've never been stuck where the battery died but due to it's size it isn't a cranking powerhouse. Anyway, I monitored battery voltage with the Access Port and it was ~11V without a jump and ~13+ with a jump. I'd tried to start the car a number of times before I jump started it.

    Anyway, I do not think it is the battery since I have the same symptoms on the Braille, a jump start from another car, and a jump box.

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    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    Are the cables secure at their sources, not just the battery? All the ground straps OK?
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    The world breaks everyone and afterward many are strong in the broken places. Ernest Hemingway
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

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    Registered User Aaronw9's Avatar
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    I had a similar problem with a 02 explorer. I know it's not even close to similar but it would start and die immediately unless I had my foot on the gas.
    I had to replace the idle air control valve.
    It fixed everything no problems since.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaronw9 View Post
    I had to replace the idle air control valve.
    That is going to be tough since there isn't one on this car.

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    Registered User Aaronw9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by f4ight View Post
    That is going to be tough since there isn't one on this car.
    Haha. I wasn't sure but I has the same symptoms on a different car so was just throwing it out there.

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    FIXED!

    Ok, temporarily fixed. Un-****ing-believable that a single resistor on an aftermarket MAF can stop a car from running.

    Pulled the MAF just to make sure the connector was clean and to spray down the elements while I was there. Looked inside to see half of a 5.1 ohm resistor hanging by one pad. No idea how it got hot enough to melt the solder and move off the pad or how half of it broke and fell into the air filter. Total jimmy-rigged two 2 ohm resistors in series with another two in parallel to kinda make 5 ohms, soldered it in and it started and ran. For giggles and ****s I pulled the MAF connector after the car was running and it died. No Alpha-N or Speed Density limp home whatsoever. Really lame on Subaru's part or the tuners part for not applying the corrections to the limp maps.

    Before... https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5085/Before.jpg

    After... https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5085/After.jpg

    I ordered a new resistor for a buck and will put it in this week to see if there was just a freak failure of the component.
    Invalid Request

    If it dies then I am stuck with a new MAF from summit is $379. Boo.
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aa...bx85/overview/

    This was a terrible way to waste the better part of 2 days.

  10. #9
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    That may not be Subaru's fault; I know from experience that pulling the MAF on a stock car will still allow the car to run. I don't know if your model differs though.

    Is the MAF a Denso? If so check the #s and next time you're at a wreckers, see if any Toyotas have the same MAF; I think they do and you could save some $ if something like this should ever happen again (though I find it odd it happened even once, let alone repeatedly).
    WRX Info Links, Courtesy TheJ
    The world breaks everyone and afterward many are strong in the broken places. Ernest Hemingway
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

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