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This is a discussion on Boost creep / fuel cut within the STi Technical Forum forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by EJ257 Knowing forums are a good place to get answers to issues is a great first step. ...

  1. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by EJ257 View Post
    Knowing forums are a good place to get answers to issues is a great first step. Knowing eBay isn't where you should be shopping for parts is another

    That will not work with our cars. You need a flange for the EWG off the uppipe. That said, I don't think that's really necessary, in this case. It's likely you simply overboosted an amount to trigger the DTC. What's done to the car?

    cobb dp and exhaust with no cat, stock ecu

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  3. #137
    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by illerikill
    cobb dp and exhaust with no cat, stock ecu
    No tune? That would explain why you're triggering the overboost DTC...
    2005 WRX STi (Mods | Virtual Dyno)

    Resident Tuner @ WTF Tuning, LLC

    "Never trust anything that bleeds for a week and lives ..."

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  4. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by EJ257 View Post
    No tune? That would explain why you're triggering the overboost DTC...
    can u tune with a stock ecu?

  5. #139
    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by illerikill
    can u tune with a stock ecu?
    Yes. What car do you have?
    2005 WRX STi (Mods | Virtual Dyno)

    Resident Tuner @ WTF Tuning, LLC

    "Never trust anything that bleeds for a week and lives ..."

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  6. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by EJ257 View Post
    Yes. What car do you have?
    2002 wrx

  7. #141
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    2.0l - you DO NOT have mechanical boost creep as indicated in this topic. You should be able to run a DP with no tune. There is something else going on.

    You should start a thread and give all the details and we'll sort this out for you.

    You are looking for things like a vac. leak between the compressor and the waste gate actuator, overtightened WGA, etc.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

  8. #142
    Registered User SubiesaurusWRX's Avatar
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    I had this question posted in another post, but, it could get better answered here. Ive experienced boost creep several times since the cold weather has come in. Im running a 38mm ewg already with a grimmspeed ebcs to assist in maintaining boost. The system has been protuned for all my mods accordingly but recently i overboosted and got fuel cut. Cel code p0244 came on, but, was cleared and car was reflashed. Target boost is 18.5 psi and ive been hitting anywhere from 19.3-19.8 psi more recently. Car runs good now but i dont need this to be a reoccuring thing everytime i wanna have alittle fun. What can i do to avoid creep/overboost and fuel cut.
    2011 WRB WRX: DW 850 cc injectors. ProcessWest tmic. Custom SRI. GT spec header. Invidia catted DP. Tsudo CBE. GT spec up-pipe. Tial mv-s ewg. Grimmspeed ebcs. Cobb AP w/ custom tune. STI ssk. ACT stage 2 clutch/pressure plate. StopTech/ Wilwood sport brake system ( front). Whiteline 3-pt adj. sway bars f/r.

  9. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by SubiesaurusWRX View Post
    I had this question posted in another post, but, it could get better answered here. Ive experienced boost creep several times since the cold weather has come in. Im running a 38mm ewg already with a grimmspeed ebcs to assist in maintaining boost. The system has been protuned for all my mods accordingly but recently i overboosted and got fuel cut. Cel code p0244 came on, but, was cleared and car was reflashed. Target boost is 18.5 psi and ive been hitting anywhere from 19.3-19.8 psi more recently. Car runs good now but i dont need this to be a reoccuring thing everytime i wanna have alittle fun. What can i do to avoid creep/overboost and fuel cut.
    Fortunately, you do not have 'mechanical" boost creep. You simply need to have your map looked at and tweaked to solve the problem. Wastegate duty cycles and all that - they just touch up your boost control or temp. compensation and it should work out great. Tuners can't necessarily predict what will happen in the cold with a particular car. I'd think about maybe saving the map version you have and using it just in the summer as well (unless they can handle it with just temp. compensation which will reverse itself when it warms back up).

    To "avoid" it shift more often - don't start from low RPM in a tall gear (e.g. 4th-5th) and pull it all the way to the top. Us up the top end of 3rd first so you start higher in 4th....
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

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