Turbo XS RFL BOV
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This is a discussion on Turbo XS RFL BOV within the South Western States forums, part of the Regional Discussion category; I have been doing a lot of research on the Turbo XS RFL BOV and been getting mixed reviews. I ...

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    Turbo XS RFL BOV

    I have been doing a lot of research on the Turbo XS RFL BOV and been getting mixed reviews. I must have stepped in something because my friend gave me his old TXS Bov but was wondering if the installation is easy enough that I could do myself and if there are pics or should i go somewhere and pay to have it done.

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    Registered User Wrinkleboi's Avatar
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    to install the BOV you will either need to take off your intercooler, which is not very complicated, or you need little hands that can squeeze in there to plug the recirculation hose.
    if you've never taken your IC off before, now is a good excuse to do so. you'll find that with most engine work you do, the IC will need to come off. there is a bolt on either side of the IC, and two that hold the BOV on. take those four bolts off. there are three black oil return lines that need to be detached from the IC, which can be done by just gently tugging on them. the last step is to loosen the clamps holding the throttle body hose to the IC, and the turbo hose to the IC. after they are loose you can wiggle your IC up and a little to the right and it should pop right off.
    you need to detach the recirculation hose from the stock BOV and plug it with the plug supplied. now you can wiggle the IC back on, just taking the steps backwards that you used to get it off. the BOV goes on with those two screws, and you'll need to attach the black hose to the tip of it. thats it, you are done... make sure you have tightened the clamps that need tightening and put the oil return line hoses back on. after you've double checked everything you are ready to go for a drive.
    as far as the 'silver rings' go that you mentioned in another post, they are washers, and are used to adjust how easily your BOV will release pressure. there is a happy balance, and chances are that it is already in about the right shape. if you want to add more but dont have any of the supplied washers, just pick up something similar form your hardware store, they dont need to be anything special. you can screw the head of the BOV off to get to them, but be careful because there is a loaded spring underneath so make sure it doesnt shoot out. inside you'll see the spring, and then the washers that sit inside the piston. if there arent enough washers inside then you'll know because your car will idle rough and be blowing off under every shift, even under almost no pressure. if there are too many washers you'll know because it wont release unless under full boost, or near that. just play around with it and find somewhere in between that you like. i personally have used anywhere from one to four washers in mine.
    if you have any other questions feel free to ask. although this is a detailed explanation, i understand its kind of difficult without pictures or being shown in person. all i can say is that it isnt a difficult install and that you should be fine if you read this carefully and dont rush yourself. good luck...
    o-|-<) bryan
    p.s. unless you are completely mechanically uninclined, please dont take this somewhere to have installed, that would be a waste...

    -2003 Blue WRX, complete 2007 STi Engine/Drivetrain transplant - Pic 1 | Pic 2 | Pic 3 | Pic 4 (new!)
    -1994 Black Supra TT 6MT - Pic | Build/Restoration Thread: 67mm, Fuel, Painted Engine Bay, Fuse Box Relocation, Wire Tuck, etc.

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    Thanks for the quick response, actually the RFL is the atmospheric one so I am not sure but i don t think its the same? maybe i dont have to do as much work?
    Anyway thank you so much for the help
    as for the rings they were not the washers, in the pic they look to have the same diameter as the bov itself maybe an adapter or something... Any whoo i screwed off the top and threw in 3 washers i was planning to install later in the week heres a pic of what i have
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails dsc01044.jpg  

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    Registered User Wrinkleboi's Avatar
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    yeah the RFL only comes in atmospheric, so i explained what you'd need to do for the one you have. its a lot of typing, but only because i was trying to be descriptive, but it really doesnt take long at all. the only reason you need to take the IC off is to get that plug into the recirculation hose to seal it off. if you can squeeze your hands in there then try to plug it without taking the IC off. if you can, then all you need to do is take the two bolts off of the stock ic, the black hose and the recirc hose, and then put the RFL on in place reattaching everything except for the recirc hose which you will plug. do you have a plug to use? if not go to the hardware store and get a sink drain plug, i think 1 3/8" but dont hold me to that. i had one of those for a while and it worked perfectly.
    o-|-<) bryan

    -2003 Blue WRX, complete 2007 STi Engine/Drivetrain transplant - Pic 1 | Pic 2 | Pic 3 | Pic 4 (new!)
    -1994 Black Supra TT 6MT - Pic | Build/Restoration Thread: 67mm, Fuel, Painted Engine Bay, Fuse Box Relocation, Wire Tuck, etc.

    www.TriStateTuners.com

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    OK got it thanks again

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    How much?

    How much is a Turbo xs rfl bov usually, and how much is the adapter kit. Does this site have a good price http://boostparts.com/bp/catalog/pro.../products_id/6.

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    Registered User Zoombaru's Avatar
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    Contrary to popular belief, BOV's are not ideal first mods. If you go to the new member's section, there is a thread at the top of the page that outlines better modifications to start with. I would stay away from the blow off valve, they make Subies run poorly.

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    how?

    In what way would you say the bov makes the wrx run poorly?

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    the stock BOV is good enough to handle around 20psi or so. it recirculates all that excess pressure back into the intake tract, running a full atmospheric one on a turbo vents it out of the bov making that oh so cool sound that everyone loves to hear.. the MAF senses the lack of air going back in ( since it's now going to the atmosphere), and compensates the air fuel mixture by adding more fuel.

    in other words, it makes you run rich.

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    Registered User Zoombaru's Avatar
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    I constantly get calls from friends with blow-off valves complaining of some sort of driveability issue with their car, and as soon as they remove the BOV, the issue is cleared up. Coincidence? One friend was getting extremely poor gas mileage and his car was randomly stalling. Another friend was experiencing bucking in 3rd gear. The cool noise just isn't worth it.

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    i believe the poor gas mileage is due to the rich condition the car is running in.

    poor driveability (i'm guessing) has to do with vaccum lines and such, causing problems such as dip in idle, and poor response between gear shifting.

  13. #12
    Registered User Wrinkleboi's Avatar
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    if the car is stalling or idling poorly then the bov (or recirc hose) isnt sealing properly. i also dont think that a bov would cause worse gas mileage that you could really notice sine it only releases a tiny bit of air and only on shifts.
    however i have seen in my own experience that shifting does not seem as smooth and i personally choose to not run one because of it.
    bryan

    -2003 Blue WRX, complete 2007 STi Engine/Drivetrain transplant - Pic 1 | Pic 2 | Pic 3 | Pic 4 (new!)
    -1994 Black Supra TT 6MT - Pic | Build/Restoration Thread: 67mm, Fuel, Painted Engine Bay, Fuse Box Relocation, Wire Tuck, etc.

    www.TriStateTuners.com

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    i also think it's a mentality thing. im guessing most poeple with a bov will step on the gas harder, and shift at higher RPMs using more gas, so they can hear the sound it makes.

  15. #14
    Registered User scooby24's Avatar
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    most atmospheric BOV's suck on MAF equipped cars. It doesn't matter what car it is. If you haven't tuned for the car to be able to pull fuel out during a shift you'll run overly rich which will cause a temporary bogging after you shift. However there are some atmospheric which are better than others.

    Here are my personal experiences:

    RFL: Sucks. Terribly. Slow reacting, doesn't close fast enough, just a poor overall design

    HKS: Better. Quicker reacting but still remains open too long...even with full tension.

    Greddy type-s: Awesome. Quick reacting, quick shutting, can be run recirc with the supplied kit.

    I have not retuned for my type-s after making it atmospheric and I have noticed little to no change in the driveability of the car. I had to tighten it significantly but after I did there are no idle issues...no backfiring....no bogginess, etc.

    If you're going to do it...do it right. There is no real need for one unless you're pushing pretty high boost levels.
    05 Crystal Gray STi
    304 hp 353 lbs on 92 octane ------> Mustang Dyno
    12.6 @ 109.2 > new numbers coming soon.

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    I have a TurboXS type H thing sucks.. I'm running 19psi and it leaks Luke crazy giving off a high pitched squeal at wot tried 1-6 washers still no go.... Going to try a GFB TMS next..

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