I'm going to install this Bosch lambda sensor, already have the sensor in the exhaust pipe, done by the muffler shop, figured I could wire it in myself and save me self some $$$
What I'm asking is were do I hook up the 4 wires, I'm using a V4 stinger, here's a picture on how to install the sensor.
I was thinking, 2 wires to ems, 1 for ground, 1 for 12v, would I be right with that? And the sensor has plugs on them and I need to wire them in how will I know which wires what on the sensor??
Any help would be great and much appreciated.
You're probably one in 250,000 using Stinger EMS on a Subaru. I don't think I've ever seen anyone else using it.. anywhere.. in 12 years. 99.8% of builds these days can be fully tuned up using the stock ECU that comes with the car, so most people opt for going that route.
I don't think he meant to excite you, just to say that it's so uncommon that the answer may be elusive.
Are the leads on the sensor different metals? In any case, some oxygen sensors require extra circuitry- If this is the case, simply reading a voltage or applying a fixed potential may not be adequate. What do you think?
Also, the heater wires need some control: if the temperature is not controlled (or is turned on too early during startup, before dew point) the sensor may crack due to thermal shock, or the sensing mechanism may not be predictable. There ought to be some controller for the sensor, right?
And when I think on it, I'm glad my cars different to 250000 other wrx's, lol it was more he was the first to reply and it wasn't about what I'm asking.
Here's what the manual has to say.
And i haven't cut the sensor yet. But from my research it may have copper wires not sure at all till I cut the plug off.
I only asked about the wire materials because the OEM a/f sensor had Grey metal wires for the heater and gold for the sensor. I guess that your schematic in the first post shows that there is control for the heater power wire (I believe that all modern oxygen sensors are heated to allow for oxygen mobility in the ceramic heating element, including the OEM ones), and that it has some way to control the sensor element too. If the wiring isn't obvious, do you think that posting pictures of both ends (sensor wires and new ecu leads) will help us to help you?
Edit / never mind about the heater control in the above schematic... That's just a relay on the 12v line, right?
Yeh its not very obvious for me I suck at electrics. And can't make out much of it. I know were the wires to the ems ecu go. Just have no clue were to wire in The 2 white heater wires,
And I can take a picture of the sensor end but not sure what you won't a picture of on the other end.
OK. Then I vote one line goes on a +12V which is switched off with the ignition (even the cigarette lighter line would work, assuming that it can pass enough current), and the other goes on ground, according to the above diagram.
Yeh I don't get it, cause from my research I need a power wire, ground wire, signal wire, and 2 heater wires.
I was thinking, the 2 ems wires are signal wires that have a 12v supply.
1 ground wire and 1 heater wire. But I'm still not 100% on that if I need both white wires for the heater.
And still don't know were I'd wire the white heater wire into either,
The black and gray go to the ems, its telling me the 2 white wires are heater wires, do I need both white wires as heater wires or just one for a heater wire and one ground. I really don't know. Someone must.
I think you are the retard. With the stock ECU on my 02 WRX I could run launch control,speed density,MAP switching and anti-lag. Also log just about every parameter and relay/switch. So I would advise you get a little more educated before shooting your mouth off.
Good for you mate, you still must have a piggyback system. Acting like your stock ecu can do any off that stuff by itself. And if your still running the stock ecu ya car couldn't be much anyways, probley mostly stock. How about you mind your own business anyways mate.
I'm stirring you up because of the attitude you copped. Mainframe was just trying to help. Get your attitude in check. The white wires are the heater wires. Search" Bosch wideband 0258104002 pin out "on Google. Click "images". You will find a pin out diagram
I'm stirring you up because of the attitude you copped. Mainframe was just trying to help. Get your attitude in check. The white wires are the heater wires. Search Bosch LSU 4.1 wideband on Google. Click "images". You will find a pin out diagram
I ask a question, get no reply, first reply I get is someone being a smart ass. Telling me my gears old and **** and no one uses that stuff. Not a thing about the question I asked. This happens most the time, I ask a question i get a reply that has nothing to do with what I asked. And I'm the idiot. I'm sorry that iv been waiting days for a reply from someone about this so I can get it done. And iv posted this on different forums but no reply. My first reply was from mainframe. Which I figured he was takin the Piss outta me. Which has happened 90% of the time.
So......you have been waiting days for replies on forums instead of simply searching on Google? I found the pin out diagram in 5 minutes for the sensor. Did you not bother to email stinger? Also is that circuit not already being used by the front o2 sensor in the passenger exhaust manifold? I can't imagine that car is just running in Openloop.
I emailed them months ago still no reply from then. And this is were I was up to by myself with just research and not much electrical experience befor you poped in.
I was thinking, the 2 wires to the ems, which it says, 1 ground wire and 1 heater wire. But I'm still not 100% on that if I need both white wires for the heater.
But now since someone with some real experience poped in. Now I no that one white wire is ground. Now to figure out were to wire on the other white wire which is the heater wire. How about ill just ask you some questions about what I'm thinking on. And you can answer if you won't to. Please keep in mind I'm not much off an electrical guy.
1) with the 2 white heater wires, can I use any one off them for the ground and heater, or it does matter which one I use for each of them.
2) after doing the research I figure the heater wire goes to a heater relay circuit that's in the under bonnet fuse box? Not 100%
3) with the info the stinger manual gives seems to be very simple, but after research on the topic things just become complicated, is the manual it just says nothing about heater circuit or anything. Will I need to control this sensor or just wire it up to a heater circuit. Like I said I'm not the best with this stuff, this is why I'm on here asking questions first befor I just start wiring thing in.
See again, donkey is experienced. He's still going to make ypu think for yourself. How else are ypu supposed to learn
And even still no one uses the system so I still wouldn't have held your breath for a big answer either
Yep he sounds alot smarter then me and alot of people on here, and I do understand that, but I have stated that I already knew how to wire in the ems side, I'm just not sure on the heater side off the sensor.
Before anything else I would make sure the input is not already being used. Does you vehicle already have a front O2 sensor in the passenger side exhaust manifold? Like I said earlier I imagine it does or it would be running in constant Openloop fueling. The Bosch sensor you are asking about looks to be similar to the factory front AFR sensor,which is a wideband. I orginally was thinking it was a Bosch LSU 4.2 (which most aftermarket wideband gauges use) but it is not.
I'd say it does, cause it still has its stock headers, so my bugeye has 2 o2 sensors, a post and pre cat? I thought the second sensor was downstream on the muffler. Not in the manifold, how wrong I was. there's one a foot away from the turbo. Can my car deal not having one off these sensor, I read that with my bugeye I could lose the post cat sensor? And if I ended up getting aftermarket headers would I need to put the sensor back?
and from my research everyone's calling them narrowbands, but this Bosch sensor that I'm installing is one of the closest to a wideband, it can read a higher AFR scale then a normal narrowband, and it says this sensor will work as a tuning sensor with the ems to get the desired AFR 'Apparently' lol
The primary AFR sensor (wideband) is in the manifold. The secondary (catalyst efficiency narrowband) is in the second cat convertor after the downpipe. The OEM primary AFR sensor can read from 20:1 AFR-9:1 AFR. Regardless the Bosch heater circut should be a bidirectional circut if memory serves me right. Unfortunately I am at work and have my personal laptop with all my saved info on this stuff at home.
Ok, so do you know what the sensor thats a foot from the turbo on the downpipe is? And my car doesn't have that rear sensor anymore, Could they have moved the rear sensor to in the downpipe cause of the 3" pipe and highflow cat?
Says the heater circut is has no polarity (bi directional). Just needs to go to a switched 12v source that can handle about 3 amps. I would wire in a fuse for the heater circut power
All the FACTORY sensors are listed above. Use the coresponding name in the diagram above so we can be on the same page. If you are using a standalone ECU then they only need to run what is necessary. There is no emmissions or OBDII anymore. The rear sensor is stricly for emmisions.
I'm on my phone, so its only bringing up half the picture, I have a sensor One foot away from the turbo in the downpipe? This is not on the diagram? Would that be the rear o2 sensor that's in the downpipe that's just been moved?
Not 100% about the manifold One yet, as its late here ill look in the morning, but I'm 99% sure its still got its stock manifold, the downpipe is not stock to my car, I'm running a VF22 so it could be stock with that turbo. Don't really know.
Just checked if there was a front o2 sensor in the exhaust manifold, there's only a bolt there, its on my drives side which is your passenger side.
So that's good news hey? Can I use the heater wires from the front sensor.
And should I buy a new front o2 sensor and bin the one that's in the downpipe, and put back the front sensor? iv already got the new Bosch sensor bolt hole done and ready, I'm putting it in just befor were the old cat would have been. So around near were the stock rear o2 sensor was.
Don't know. Depends how it is controlled. If Subaru powered it by the 12v side of the factory ECU then no as you no longer have the factory ECU yes? Grab the factory service manual and find the electrical section for the pin out diagrams. If the factory ECU power the heater circut then you can use the factory harness to connect to on both ends (on end to Stinger other to wideband)
And should I buy a new front o2 sensor and bin the one that's in the downpipe, and put back the front sensor? iv already got the new Bosch sensor bolt hole done and ready, I'm putting it in just befor were the old cat would have been.
No offense,but this really,really over your head here. Take the car in and have a shop that deals with the Stinger EM look at it. It's a stand alone ECU yes? If so then NONE of the factory emission components matter. There is no OBDII and the only reason to install the Bosch sensor is if the Stinger is not currently running an wideband sensor. Obviously,for whatever reason you now have in the downpipe. Unless you have a wideband gauge the only reason would be the Stinger EMS is using it. Figure out what that sensor is being used for.
King of the Streets winner, 2013.. once again, stock ECU.
If you don't need standalone ECU for a 9 second car, that makes well over 700hp.. then why would you need it for a mostly stock car that barely makes 300hp and will probably only do a quarter mile in 13.9s?
Cool, and good for you. Like I'm gonna waste my time reading your half ass response, Lmao, for one my main question was about wires mate reading a diagram. And where a heater wire is, I'm not the best with that ****. And now I know over 50000 American ain't good at it either. lol and my wrx done an 11.68 last time at the track. With its ems. And now iv sold my daily to put 5000k into it, and I guarantee ill go it the 9s. This forum is a joke. lol
and my wrx gas cost me 12k so far, with out putting this 5k into it. And yes it is odd looking hey, well that's what people do here everyday. I like my import cars 99% of people here like muscle. Lol, acting like I didn't already find this out a while ago if you read the posts.. and it really tells me where the heater wire goes into the car harness hey. But I already know . No thanks to anyone on here.
and my wrx gas cost me 12k so far, with out putting this 5k into it. And yes it is odd looking hey, well that's what people do here everyday. I like my import cars 99% of people here like muscle. Lol, acting like I didn't already find this out a while ago if you read the posts.. and it really tells me where the heater wire goes into the car harness hey. But I already know . No thanks to anyone on here.
I've noticed everyone is really into muscle cars down there.. it's kind of a shame, because you guys get some of the best Japanese imports that aren't available to us here in the States. Although my understanding is that the police are real ****s about cracking down on "illegal" modifications in Australia.. which I can only imagine sucks big time.
Glad you got it sorted out. All it takes is some google searching and you can almost always find the information you're looking for.
Just jackin the car wrong or using a lift in the wrong spot on the car can damage the chassis. If you drive your car really hard at the track. It's not going to be the same shape as new aswell.
Just jackin the car wrong or using a lift in the wrong spot on the car can damage the chassis. If you drive your car really hard at the track. It's not going to be the same shape as new aswell.
True.. however my car has only been jacked up properly, and the first 110,000 miles on it were only highway miles.. no racing. After that the suspension, transmission, differentials, engine, and all bushings were replaced. So in reality, it should be in MUCH better condition (and newer) than your car. Assuming your car isn't a 2012+ model.