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2005 WRX overheated = New engine?

9K views 24 replies 12 participants last post by  devilfluff 
#1 ·
So I have a 2005 WRX wagon. Like a silly ignant girl I let the damn thing overheat. Got the radiator replaced, it had cracked and I didn't realize how close to critical it was... /excuse over... And drove it thinking I could get away with a couple of days... How wrong I was. I wanted to save on the towing so drove with the heater on for that last day and all was 'ok' until the day I was gonna take it in... All of a sudden the ole drive with the heater on thing didn't work and the temp shot up- eep...

Got it towed to the dealership for a new radiator

So the wagon was fine for a bit and then I noticed smoke out the hood scoop... And eventually out the tail pipe- and randomly occuring... I left it with the dealership for the weekend and they couldnt see it or get it to smoke /figures I drive out and poof smoke pull right back in and they confirm it's coming from the heat shielding around the turbo pipes. So bring it in thinking worse case the turbo needs to be replaced best case it's just a turbo gasket... I call to confirm the gory details and... Well it gets real gory... Um... Yeah it's not the turbo you need an engine..... Gah!

So they found white powder in the exhaust valves along with a little rust, white powder on the A/F sensor and signs of seepage from the head gaskets (caskets in this case?) So their suggestion-based on the overheat, the evidence and 115,000 miles, is to replace the engine. I did take it to another shop and they basically confirmed the same thing.

So do you think just a head gasket and or head replacement will do the trick or did I save on the towing to screw myself with needing a new engine? The dealership mechanic said I needed to fix it, dump it or drive it till it explodes (which could happen tomorrow or months from now).

Looking for advice, suggestions or just smile to yourself and say yup stoopid girl drivers ;-p
 
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#2 ·
A blown headgasket (or two) does not necessarily mean you have to replace the motor. It depends on how bad the motor over heated and if the coolant got into the engine's oiling system. Either way it's not going to be a cheap repair.
 
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#3 ·
Ouch. That sucks.

They are not necessarily wrong, but they are giving you the safe option. You can try replacing the head gaskets, having the heads checked. Unfortunately of there is damage to the lower end, you still need a new engine & are out the $$$.

I would get AAA, and then drive it until it failed. Save some cash to buy a new block when it fails.
 
#4 ·
Bad things happen, it's a lesson I'm sure you won't forget. I've been down that road (not with my WRX tho) and can vouch that it's gonna be expensive either way.
If you can do it, replace the motor. I'd like to think that that'll be the more reliable option (especially since you just don't know if something else was damaged and could go next) but it ain't cheap. Good luck regardless, keep us posted.
 
#8 ·
sounds like a cracked radiator according to the OP. Our plastic endcaps are not well-known for their strength.

If you're in a similar situation - don't keep driving, and if it's the radiator, replace with a mishimoto or smth.
 
#9 ·
lesson learned. Now if you invested in the $50 dollar towing, this would of never happen. sell your car to some chump, and buy yourself a new WRX or STi
 
#10 ·
Yup cracked radiator. The top part of the radiator is plastic and that part will eventually fail. Si if you start to smell coolant have the radiator looked at. Mine lasted about 100,000.

I guess my other question is... my dad has been a mechanic for a very long time. How realistic is it to have him do the head gasket? Is there anything super weird or odd about the process or is it pretty straight forward?

If I decide to sell I've been told it's worth about $3000 in it's current condition... does that sound about right? And damn it I also just replaced the clutch too =/
 
#11 ·
I guess my other question is... my dad has been a mechanic for a very long time. How realistic is it to have him do the head gasket? Is there anything super weird or odd about the process or is it pretty straight forward?

If I decide to sell I've been told it's worth about $3000 in it's current condition... does that sound about right? And damn it I also just replaced the clutch too =/
I can't comment too much on worth, but if that's true, then put a new engine in! Compared to the lost value by having a bad engine, a new engine costs very little.

Headgaskets are somewhat tough by nature of the boxer engine - there's NO WAY you're doing it without at least removing the engine. Then, since the car did overheat, you're likely going to have to machine the heads and block to get the surfaces to mate correctly, most likely.

Run a compression and leakdown test, at least. That'll tell you a little more about what's up, at least.
 
#17 ·
So... My dad talked with the last shop that looked at the car. They told him they would start with the head gaskets... And let me know where to go from there. So since my dad is actually a mechanic, since 16, I'm going to have him do the head gaskets and have him see how bad it is once the heads are off.

Best case he will be able to determine if it's just the gaskets worse case he has done the labor to tell me I'm hosed... Knd of a win win... Especially if it really is just head gaskets, for now.

I figure if I can get by with the gaskets for 6-8-12 months I can save up for a decent down payment on something or a sizable chunk of a new engine.

So with that said we plan on doing a valve job, at the least. The A/F sensor, I would assume, anything else that you all feel should be looked at, replaced and/or reviewed?

Urgh... iPad is cool and all just can't scroll to make sure the post makes sense =/
 
#20 ·
Have the heads leak tested and trueness of the surface checked while they are off. If a machine shop is doing the valve job they should be doing that first.

Definitely change the oil, replace the thermostat, flush the cooling system & refill with new coolant. I'd check the plugs while they are easy to access...
 
#22 ·
My dad just suggested we use KW Block sealer until we can properly fix the car. It will probably be a little bit before we can get to it. My dad is putting a new engine in his truck right now so he will fix my car after that.

Anyone have experience with this or tips on how to use it?
 
#23 ·
That's a stop gap measure that may or may not work. That's about as much as anybody can say about that stuff and this attempted repair.
 
#24 ·
Yup... I realize that... But is it wise to do it? We will be fixing it. But it could take a month. So just curious if it's worth it or do I just keep an eye on the coolant levels and drive as little as possible until we start the fix.
 
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