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This is a discussion on DIY: Rear Differential Fluid Change within the Powertrain forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; A regular ratchet definitely didn't have the leverage to get the job done for me. I got the rear wheels ...

  1. #16
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    A regular ratchet definitely didn't have the leverage to get the job done for me. I got the rear wheels up on ramps and my breaker bar got the job done with a lot of oomph on my part.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BarryG View Post
    A regular ratchet definitely didn't have the leverage to get the job done for me. I got the rear wheels up on ramps and my breaker bar got the job done with a lot of oomph on my part.
    Thinking that's going to be how I'm going to have to get it done. Either up on ramps or up on jack stands...
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    Quote Originally Posted by ganzhimself View Post
    Wow... So, I spent a half an hour under my car trying to get the fill plug to budge... No dice. Using a pretty big Craftsman 1/2" drive... Turning counterclockwise, can't get it to move at all. Any ideas? Thinking about getting it up in the air to get some more room to work. Do I need something bigger/better?
    ramps + 1/2" drive breaker bar + 2 foot cheater bar + PB Blaster. You should be able to apply well over 150 ft-lbs of torque this way. If your plug doesn't budge under 150 ft-lbs, you have a problem
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  5. #19
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    Get a heat gun and up the drain plug. This did the trick for me.
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    Quote Originally Posted by zax View Post
    ramps + 1/2" drive breaker bar + 2 foot cheater bar
    Those are going to have to be mighty tall ramps ;-)

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    Picked up a 17 inch, 1/2" drive breaker bar. Did the trick. I was worried that I was turning it the wrong way at first, but as soon as the threads gave I knew I was in business. Man, that stuff stinks... Almost as bad as burnt ATF, but not quite. The bottom plug looked good and what I would imagine is clean, no big chunks or shavings. Wiped them clean, let everything drain out, then pumped in ~1 qt of Mobil1 gear oil.
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  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by oguitar View Post
    Get a heat gun and up the drain plug. This did the trick for me.
    hey guys, i posted my problem on NES...I think my threads are seized. I used a breaker bar, not sure of the length (over 1ft long, that i know), as well as PB plaster...no dice. Didn't have too much room, but i thought the breaker bar would do it. Should I resort to a heat gun, heat the bolts a little then try? I'm having the same problem with my tranny drain plug too...
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    Quote Originally Posted by LetsWRCinmyWRX View Post
    hey guys, i posted my problem on NES...I think my threads are seized. I used a breaker bar, not sure of the length (over 1ft long, that i know), as well as PB plaster...no dice. Didn't have too much room, but i thought the breaker bar would do it. Should I resort to a heat gun, heat the bolts a little then try? I'm having the same problem with my tranny drain plug too...
    Heat really works. Once I heated the bolt up it came right out. It was not cross-threaded or anything.
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    Be very, very careful.

    Before you heat something, think twice about what you're doing. Wipe and clean the exterior, you don't want any oil or residue on the outside in contact with a flame, for example. Start low.

    Also, always, ALWAYS make sure the FILL bolt comes out before even touching the drain bolt. Again, do NOT remove the drain bolt unless the fill bolt is out!

    The gearbox has a washer and I tend to change that when I drain the old fluid.

    The rear diff can use a touch of sealant. The manual calls for it, many people don't use any anyway. Your call.

    Don't overtighten, I think that's what started your problem.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    Don't overtighten, I think that's what started your problem.

    No, what started my problem is sh!tty bolts + subaru dealership doing majority of the work + new england weather + principles of science. That's what started my problem...i bought the car USED...lol
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    Thoughts on hitting the side of the bolt with an upside down can of compressed air? *spits chunks of CO2 basically. That technically would cause the bolt to contract. Or what about a combination of heating and compressed air?
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  13. #27
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    First try plain old heat.

    I should clarify this though a little but. Use a heat gun not a torch. You are too close to the fuel tank to be using any type of flame. That brings scary images into my head. Also don't heat it up too much just enough to get the bolt/plug to break loose.

    When I was in your situation I was putting so much force on that bolt and it would not budge. I even had my breaker bar being pushed up by my jack. All that got me was a bent breaker bar. Once I heated the bolt/plug up a little bit it came right out.

    Like it was said don't open the drain plug until you get the fill plug opened. Hope you get it worked out.
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    thanks so much for info!!!!

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    A trick I used when I changed my diff fluid and I couldn't get the drain or fill plug was to use my floorjack. With my car up on ramps, I took my 1/2 inch drive ratchet and used my 3 ton floor jack to torque the plug loose. I only had to raise the jack about 3-4 inches to get it to break free, then I sprayed some PB and loosened it the rest of the way by hand.

  16. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by scoobydo2.0 View Post
    A trick I used when I changed my diff fluid and I couldn't get the drain or fill plug was to use my floorjack. With my car up on ramps, I took my 1/2 inch drive ratchet and used my 3 ton floor jack to torque the plug loose. I only had to raise the jack about 3-4 inches to get it to break free, then I sprayed some PB and loosened it the rest of the way by hand.
    That's a smart move! Thanks for the info.
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