Ohio Roll Call - Page 93
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This is a discussion on Ohio Roll Call within the North Central States forums, part of the Regional Discussion category; not sure how much I'm gonna spend this round I'd say less than 5 bills. I get some extra cash ...

  1. #1381
    Registered User rlem00's Avatar
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    not sure how much I'm gonna spend this round I'd say less than 5 bills. I get some extra cash when I'm on the road and am about to spend some time on the road, each cheap and pocket the daily, he he.
    from the outside looking in you don't understand from the inside looking out you can't explaine

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  3. #1382
    Registered User Snowvert's Avatar
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    just got back from an entire day of flying, but all I can say is san diego is in short... paradise. had the most fun for a weekend ever. everyday, the weather is perfect.

    went to hot import daze at qualcomm stadium also and good lord, was it sweet. I have about 150 pics I took, plus a few short movies. i'll get them posted up in the next couple days.

    we meeting up in monroe/usual spot on saturday?
    03 wrx - 300whp/270wtq
    Originally posted by zoophagy
    The people that work there are, for the most part, retards. I used to work there.

  4. #1383
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    I don't think we have determined whether or not a meet will happen yet this weekend. We are all pretty busy. I think I am at least going to try the ziptied break lines though.

    I'm surprised you havenoticed any problems with your brakes yet when autoxing. My pedal feel is terrible. We bleeded my brakes for the first time (10000 miles) last weekend and there was a tremendous amount of air in the lines, probably do to me being a late braker at autox events.

  5. #1384
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    Originally posted by subieworx
    I don't think we have determined whether or not a meet will happen yet this weekend. We are all pretty busy. I think I am at least going to try the ziptied break lines though.

    I'm surprised you havenoticed any problems with your brakes yet when autoxing. My pedal feel is terrible. We bleeded my brakes for the first time (10000 miles) last weekend and there was a tremendous amount of air in the lines, probably do to me being a late braker at autox events.
    I've never autox'ed yet which is why I haven't had any trouble with my brakes
    320hp/306tq 20g Powah

  6. #1385
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    But wasn't the ride on Sunday with me fun?

  7. #1386
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    AAAAGGGGHHHHHH NOOO!!!

    Zip ties => Plastic => insulator => higher retained heat

    If you want to try anything like that I would get some springs with the same ID as the OD of the brake lines and wrap the lines in that.


    Originally posted by fatgroundhog
    Some may be tired of hearing me say this, but I'm eager for someone to try it out. In Japan, I guess one mod is to tie zip ties around the rubber brake lines; it gives the same functionality of stainless steel lines, but very cheap. Give it a shot!

  8. #1387
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    But where is the heat retained in the brake system? Is there really that much heat the escapes through the lines? Does the fluid circulate back to the resevoir? I might try it still. At worst, I would be out $2 in zipties and about an hour of labor.

    What about taking thin metal wire and wrapping the brake lines with it? It would not insulate as the zipties would, would still allow the line to flex with the turn of the wheel and should keep it from expanding.

  9. #1388
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    Best change you can make at this point would be better pads. Jason called his buddy in FL who has tried a number of them and he swears by the porterfield R4-S. I was torn between those and the new Red Stuff Ceramics (nothing like the old red stuff pads), but I could not get ahold of EBC so I ended up with the porterfield. R4-S for the WRX will end up costing about 200 all around.

    Originally posted by subieworx
    I am also looking for brake pad, but after replacing the brake fluid in my car this weekend and then autoxing on my friend's Sti tires I'm not sure. I was locking those things up like crazy with the stock brakes. I think I am going to try stainless lines first.

  10. #1389
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    Originally posted by cboggess
    Best change you can make at this point would be better pads. Jason called his buddy in FL who has tried a number of them and he swears by the porterfield R4-S. I was torn between those and the new Red Stuff Ceramics (nothing like the old red stuff pads), but I could not get ahold of EBC so I ended up with the porterfield. R4-S for the WRX will end up costing about 200 all around.
    That price is out of my "allowable" budget for this year. If I can't make it for free, or damn near, then I have to wait.

  11. #1390
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    The heat will "wick" up the system, but it takes time to get back up to the reservoir, and you end up getting hot spots through the system so you want the cooling as close to the caliper as possible. I know that people are going to say "But a lot of stainless lines have a plastic wrap that will insulate too" and they are correct, but you also have the heat absorbtion of the steel wrap on there allowing heat to be stored in the metal (better heat index than plastic).

    Wire would work, but there are some problems with that. First you would need wire that was flexible enough to wrap around the lines. Second you would have to wrap it with a consistant tightness around the line. Third, if it's flexible enough to wrap than it's too flexible in that it will distort when the rubber lines push against it.

    The reason I say springs is because they will be relatively stiff in their expansion, they are able to bent over their length to follow the path of the brake line, and there is consistant tension in the wrap through the length of the spring. Also, I have seen springs on brake lines before for just this purpose, but it was on brakes from many years ago when rubber wasn't as high a quality as it is now.

    The thing that I have been kicking around for many years and would like to try is something they occasionally do on F1 cars. I would like to put an aluminum spacer tube about 2"-3" long between the steel line and the rubber line. Braised to the outer surface of these spacers are fins. Essentially, I'm looking to make an in-line heat sink for the brake lines, but I don't have access to the machinist tools to do this.

    Originally posted by subieworx
    But where is the heat retained in the brake system? Is there really that much heat the escapes through the lines? Does the fluid circulate back to the resevoir? I might try it still. At worst, I would be out $2 in zipties and about an hour of labor.

    What about taking thin metal wire and wrapping the brake lines with it? It would not insulate as the zipties would, would still allow the line to flex with the turn of the wheel and should keep it from expanding.

  12. #1391
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    How about some cheapy easy to do DIY brake ducting?

    Originally posted by subieworx
    That price is out of my "allowable" budget for this year. If I can't make it for free, or damn near, then I have to wait.

  13. #1392
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    We looked at that before you got to Steve's on Saturday. I have the sheetmetal to make the duct covers, I would just have to decide from there how to extend the ducts to the rotors.

  14. #1393
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    Well, there are a couple of ways that we could to that.

    We'd have to take the sheet metal and make the bottom portion for the ducts under the bumper skin/under skirt.

    Now that we've got the air pushing through that hole and into the wheel well how do we aim it?

    Well, there's a couple of ways.
    1) We could take some of that sheet metal and build a short duct to aim in the direction of the wheel. We'd use pop rivets as the fastener for the box.
    2) We could get some drier ducting and zip tie it to suspension components until it's blowing air right onto the rotor.

    When I really think about it though I don't think you're going fast enough during autoX to push that much air through the ducts.

    Originally posted by subieworx
    We looked at that before you got to Steve's on Saturday. I have the sheetmetal to make the duct covers, I would just have to decide from there how to extend the ducts to the rotors.

  15. #1394
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    Originally posted by cboggess
    Well, there are a couple of ways that we could to that.

    We'd have to take the sheet metal and make the bottom portion for the ducts under the bumper skin/under skirt.

    Now that we've got the air pushing through that hole and into the wheel well how do we aim it?

    Well, there's a couple of ways.
    1) We could take some of that sheet metal and build a short duct to aim in the direction of the wheel. We'd use pop rivets as the fastener for the box.
    2) We could get some drier ducting and zip tie it to suspension components until it's blowing air right onto the rotor.

    When I really think about it though I don't think you're going fast enough during autoX to push that much air through the ducts.
    Plus with track times of only 50 secs max and rest times of 15 minutes between it gives them a pretty good chance to cool down.

  16. #1395
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    Originally posted by cboggess
    Best change you can make at this point would be better pads. Jason called his buddy in FL who has tried a number of them and he swears by the porterfield R4-S. I was torn between those and the new Red Stuff Ceramics (nothing like the old red stuff pads), but I could not get ahold of EBC so I ended up with the porterfield. R4-S for the WRX will end up costing about 200 all around.
    Yes tracking with you was a lot of fun. You're a pretty good driver Tony. As far as the Pads I am just trying to get a good feel on the Axxis since some people really like them and others don't. However at 80$ for all four they are hard to beat unless they don't work
    320hp/306tq 20g Powah

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