how d you know that you've broken in an new STI engine? - Page 2
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This is a discussion on how d you know that you've broken in an new STI engine? within the New Member Hangout forums, part of the Community - Meet other Enthusiasts category; Please excuse my level of illateracy on the subject but did you guys get new rims for the all season ...

  1. #16
    Registered User mrjenkins's Avatar
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    Please excuse my level of illateracy on the subject but did you guys get new rims for the all season tires? Changing tires using the same wheels kind of risky for a fast car no? Assuming the way service workers dont give a damn about anything.

    Quote Originally Posted by Speedette
    I agree! I live in NoVA (Fairfax) and I commute to Tysons Corner as well! You'll be on the major roads anyway, so snow won't be much of a bother (well not as much of a bother as other drivers), but I recommend just some good all-season tires. I got my sweet Kumho ECSTA ASX all-season tires for $60/each from Tire Rack. I noticed a huge improvement over the stockers. Unless you're off-roading, rallying, or taking a lot of unpaved back-roads, I don't think it's necessary to have snow tires right now.

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    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrjenkins
    Please excuse my level of illateracy on the subject but did you guys get new rims for the all season tires? Changing tires using the same wheels kind of risky for a fast car no? Assuming the way service workers dont give a damn about anything.
    I think its just a pain in the butt to swap/rebalance the tires all the time...and I'm guessing that all that on/off action on perfectly good tires isn't great for them.
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    go f*** yourself

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by blarg
    yeah, and do you expect the engines to go 100k+ miles without rebuilds or major tear-downs?
    No, but we expect them to survive 2,500 full throttle 8000rpm laps on a motor that was originally designed to spin at 5500. If the motors were used for street use, it would almost never need a refresh. Do you think we would skimp on a $20k motor that is squeezed for every last HP?

  5. #19
    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    No, but we expect them to survive 2,500 full throttle 8000rpm laps on a motor that was originally designed to spin at 5500. If the motors were used for street use, it would almost never need a refresh. Do you think we would skimp on a $20k motor that is squeezed for every last HP?
    uh...yeah!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

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    Quote Originally Posted by blarg
    uh...yeah!
    ooook

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    Administrator TheJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrjenkins
    Please excuse my level of illateracy on the subject but did you guys get new rims for the all season tires? Changing tires using the same wheels kind of risky for a fast car no? Assuming the way service workers dont give a damn about anything.
    Well... You will have to change your tires regularly anyway, no? So changing them to all-season tires is no riskier then changing them to anything else. Your OE tires won't last long anyway... Mine didn't.
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    On my 2006 corolla LE I had it reving the day I brought it home. It had like 9 miles on it LOL. Only the first few miles are important so stuff can lubricate. You should of started reving it higher around 20 miles

    And yes good all season tires are all you need. I had bridgestone weatherforce on my old neon and they worked fine on snow, ice, etc.

  9. #23
    Registered User rr1911's Avatar
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    as for breaking in... they test that motor and drive the car before they sell it to you...
    plus cars are not like they were in the 60's where you had to warm it up and ect...

    how much snow do you on an average ?
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  10. #24
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    Just follow the manual and have fun. I've owned 6 Subarus, and I broke them all in according to the manufacturers recommendations. Never had a single engine problem with any of them.

    As for winter tires, I recommend getting some cheap ASA ($99/rim) rims and decent all season tires for your area in the winter. The rims will pay for themselves since you will be denying some grease monkey the opportunity to scratch the stock STi rims, which are not cheap to replace. Believe me, you do NOT want to get caught even once on the stock tires in the snow. ZERO traction, ZERO stopping, ZERO turning. The stock tire compound gets very hard on the cold and is scary in snow. It's actually even worse than runing a RWD or FWD car on bald tires 'cause the AWD will pull you right into a ditch due to the road pitch.

    You'll also be able to change your own tires too, which in my book, is a positive. I hate someone else working on my cars. They just don't have the same level of care, natrually.
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  11. #25
    Registered User afbluesv1k's Avatar
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    The break in debate has been an argument since motors were made, the same as which oil is better, both with alot of opinion, and not a large amount of facts.
    As Far as tires go the stock RE 070 are have no snow traction period. All seasons would be fine, or at least change to a tire like the Toyo Proxes 4 so there is at least some tread pattern to bite into the snow. If you are planning on being a commuter and not a autoXer then I would back off to UHPAS (ultra high performance passenger) vs MP (Max performance) which the RE 070s are.
    Not a fan of switching tires on rims when the tires arent bad. Have seen way too many rims scratched.

  12. #26
    Registered User mrjenkins's Avatar
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    I finally passed 1000 mi (in 10 days ) I went to my dealer and he said that there is no need for an oil change until 3K. I am confused! I

    Quote Originally Posted by D0WNxSH1FT View Post
    keep her under 4K till 1,000mi then get an oil change, then go have fun.

    Lag shouldnt be too bad since the Turbo isnt HUGE and the 2.5L helps.

  13. #27
    Moderator YBNormal07's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrjenkins View Post
    I finally passed 1000 mi (in 10 days ) I went to my dealer and he said that there is no need for an oil change until 3K. I am confused! I
    There is no need from the dealers perspective since the manual says 3K for the first change. Otherwise, you now have a warranty issue.

    If you've now passed 1K miles, and have finally revved the snot out of it (if you didn't hit the rev limiter, there is still some snot left ), it can't hurt to change the oil to remove the "fines" that are a normal part of any engine build. I actually do my first change at 100 miles...just 'cause I'm anal like that.

    If you want to change it at 1K...do it...it's your car. Tell the dealer to shut their yap and listen to the customer..."who is always right".
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  14. #28
    Registered User cavallino333's Avatar
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    Break in blows. I've had my car 4 months I still need 400 miles more. Nissan says 1200 for break in on there cars. I guess they need an extra 200. Seriously break in probably isn't really even necessary on todays modern cars. I still do it though because hey it can't hurt right?
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  15. #29
    Registered User mrjenkins's Avatar
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    Thanks guys.

    Yes I tried to rev it up a little. Didn't pass 7k though. I will get there.

    Cheers.

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