New '07 WRX Owner
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This is a discussion on New '07 WRX Owner within the New Member Hangout forums, part of the Community - Meet other Enthusiasts category; Hi Guys, The name's Richard. Just picked up an '07 WRX and I can't wait to get to work on ...

  1. #1
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    Talking New '07 WRX Owner

    Hi Guys,

    The name's Richard. Just picked up an '07 WRX and I can't wait to get to work on it (has some issues) This WRX will be my daily driver, and will replace my '98 Ford Escort ZX2. The car is stock besides an air filter / box removal? I didn't really look too close. There's also some mishimoto intake/intercooler pipiing in the middle of the engine bay. There's a stereo, short throw shifter, and tinted glass, but other than that it's really stock. Just 52k miles on it.

    Excited to learn more, and get to know you guys. If you can provide any advice as to why the car can't get past 4.5k RPM on WOT that would be great...but I didn't really come here to ask questions, just mainly introduce myself.

    Cheers,
    Richard

    Took this as soon as I got home. Dat ass

    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #2
    Registered User BOshea's Avatar
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    well good luck with car and welcome to the club. but i would definitely look into getting a tune if you have any aftermarket parts under the hood.

  4. #3
    Registered User Impreza2.0's Avatar
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    Do you have a 'check engine light' illuminated whenever the key is engaged?

    also, can you post pics of the engine, as many and as thorough as possible?

    It should not be hard to fix the cause of the boost/rpm limitation...

    "Limp Mode" is a failsafe that is incorporated into your engine control computer's programming.
    It prevents damage to the turbine assembly that may be caused by failure to control air/fuel ratio and or timing.
    Any of those things can cause catastrophic failure of the turbo.

    The car may have a modification that it is not tuned to attribute in it's air and fuel maps.
    Rather than try to write the whole thing for you... give us pictures.
    We or I can show you pictures of how things should look, or explain what is wrong.

    It may simply need to be reset.
    You can take the ground wirel off the battery for 30 seconds and reconnect it.
    That will reset your clock and possibly radio stations.
    It will also reset the engine control computer (ecu) and allow the engine to run normally until the failure
    occurs again. At that point you must diagnose it.

    Hopefully we'll have pics by the time that comes along, so it should go quickly.

  5. #4
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    I was gonna post this in a new thread but since we already got things going here...

    Issues
    - Complete loss of power over 4.5k RPM at WOT. I can get it to rev a bit higher if I am not flooring it.
    - Rough idle issue (it dies sometimes but mostly just surges and can feel some shaking when it goes really low)
    - Not seeing any codes.

    Car details:
    - 2007 WRX 52k miles
    - Open air box with what looks like a K&N filter and modded intake
    - Mishimoto intercooler piping
    - Walbro 255 lph fuel pump (previous owner installed this after the dealer told him his fuel pressure was low???)
    - HID headlights (one ballast)
    - Aftermarket Stereo + SUBs

    Here's a pic of the engine bay incase you see something funky since I am not very familiar with the car.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Going to try to reset the ECU by taking the ground wire off and let you know if there's any difference at all.

    Please reply with next steps for help with diagnosis and possible issues. Since I got it for a good price, I am taking it to the dealer tomorrow and see what they can see. Please let me know if there's anything I should get the dealer to check like fuel pressure again to see if it's actually low and anything else. My gut feeling is that there is something wrong with the fuel system that the previous owner just assumed would be fixed by a new fuel pump.

    Thanks,
    Richard
    Last edited by DevilX; 06-09-2014 at 07:57 PM.

  6. #5
    Registered User WRX-maniac's Avatar
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    For some reason the attachment is not working for me. Try using photobucket, upload the pic on there and then copy and paste the [IMG] link to the pic. But without getting a look at the engine bay its hard to say whats going on. But what bugs me is the fact that the person before added a 255lph fuel pump to a possibly other than stock car. I would get a new oem fuel pump, once you find out if the rest of car is stock or whatever, and then reset your ecu to see if that fixes the problem.

    Although I will add that just adding a bigger fuel pump with stock injectors usually isnt a issue bc the injectors will still only allow as much fuel through them as they are tuned for. I would say there is no use for a larger fuel pump on your car, but not sure what all mods are on it.
    2011 WRB WRX hatchback---Stage 2
    Stink-Eye Mob #301
    http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/builds...ld-thread.html <----Build Thread

  7. #6
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    Cleaned the MAF and did the reset (took neg batt connector cable off while cleaning the MAF). Idle issue seems a bit better, but it was a bit intermittent anyways so hard to say. Below is a pic of the MAF before and after. Also a video of the power loss/hesitation @ 4250 RPM.

    Video (try to listen with good speakers or headphones if you can):



    MAF before and after:

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  8. #7
    Registered User UEDan's Avatar
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    Thats not the MAF sensor. Thats the intake air temp sensor. The MAF sensor is inside.

  9. #8
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    Update on this is that at idle, fuel pressure is sitting at 35 psi when it should be 45. The tech is gonna call me back after checking a few more things, but he can't find anything obvious at the moment.

    If nothing else is found, I think I am going to go ahead and start with installing the OEM pump and ditching the walbro pump that the previous owner threw in. After that, I am not sure. I don't like throwing parts at my car, but I also don't like driving it like this

  10. #9
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    Fualty MAF & Vacuum Leak

    Hey guys, looks like it was due to a faulty MAF and a vacuum leak at the blow off (or recirculation?) valve. I was extremely happy with the service at the dealer (Subaru City - Edmonton, AB, Canada).

    Diagnostic run-down for the initial issue:

    Before anything was done, the fuel pressure was low, and the A/F correction was like 20% off or something. It didn't once throw a code. Fixing the vacuum leak helped to correct the A/F 10 points, but it still had a loss of power at 4250 RPM. As soon as they tried a known good MAF, the A/F correction went down to zero. Note that nothing appeared wrong with the MAF. I also wanted to mention that the 255LPH Walbro pump was not able to maintain as consistent fuel pressure as the OEM pump according to their before and after diagnostic. Although I am willing to bet I didn't need to replace the fuel pump, and it was an extra $500 to replace it, I'm glad I did that too. I'm so happy that I lucked out with a good/through tech. I got 15% off on parts, and I know they didn't fully charge me on labour either. Total cost $2500

    Work done on this vehicle by the dealer (all included in the above cost mentioned):

    - Overall inspection of the vehicle
    - Took a look at aftermarket installed parts / grounding kit to see that it was all installed correctly
    - Inspection of fuel pump / filter / control module / fuel lines / etc
    - New OEM fuel pump assembly installed
    - Inspect / test / replace MAF
    - Various road tests
    - Found and fixed vacuum leak
    - Tried a known good manifold pressure sensor to see if it helped (it didn't)
    - Checked engine timing marks (good)
    - Checked Cam and crank sensor wiring (good)
    - Filled it with a tank of clean premium gas
    - LF ball joint was found to be worn out during test drive (replaced)
    - Installed new block heater cord as old one was missing
    - Inspect and replace brake/clutch fluid
    - Replaced CV valve (I think he made a typo here, I think he meant PCV valve)
    - Oil/Filter change with synthetic
    - Noted read brake pads at 25-30% life
    - Sweat from trans shift seal (monitor for now)

    I will take it back again if I have an issue I don't want to solve myself...just becuase they did such a thorough job, plus gave me a break on parts a labour. Good sh*t.

  11. #10
    Registered User ManofSteel1986's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DevilX View Post
    Hey guys, looks like it was due to a faulty MAF and a vacuum leak at the blow off (or recirculation?) valve. I was extremely happy with the service at the dealer (Subaru City - Edmonton, AB, Canada).

    Diagnostic run-down for the initial issue:

    Before anything was done, the fuel pressure was low, and the A/F correction was like 20% off or something. It didn't once throw a code. Fixing the vacuum leak helped to correct the A/F 10 points, but it still had a loss of power at 4250 RPM. As soon as they tried a known good MAF, the A/F correction went down to zero. Note that nothing appeared wrong with the MAF. I also wanted to mention that the 255LPH Walbro pump was not able to maintain as consistent fuel pressure as the OEM pump according to their before and after diagnostic. Although I am willing to bet I didn't need to replace the fuel pump, and it was an extra $500 to replace it, I'm glad I did that too. I'm so happy that I lucked out with a good/through tech. I got 15% off on parts, and I know they didn't fully charge me on labour either. Total cost $2500

    Work done on this vehicle by the dealer (all included in the above cost mentioned):

    - Overall inspection of the vehicle
    - Took a look at aftermarket installed parts / grounding kit to see that it was all installed correctly
    - Inspection of fuel pump / filter / control module / fuel lines / etc
    - New OEM fuel pump assembly installed
    - Inspect / test / replace MAF
    - Various road tests
    - Found and fixed vacuum leak
    - Tried a known good manifold pressure sensor to see if it helped (it didn't)
    - Checked engine timing marks (good)
    - Checked Cam and crank sensor wiring (good)
    - Filled it with a tank of clean premium gas
    - LF ball joint was found to be worn out during test drive (replaced)
    - Installed new block heater cord as old one was missing
    - Inspect and replace brake/clutch fluid
    - Replaced CV valve (I think he made a typo here, I think he meant PCV valve)
    - Oil/Filter change with synthetic
    - Noted read brake pads at 25-30% life
    - Sweat from trans shift seal (monitor for now)

    I will take it back again if I have an issue I don't want to solve myself...just becuase they did such a thorough job, plus gave me a break on parts a labour. Good sh*t.

    Interesting. I just bought 07 wrx with 90 k miles. Been driving it for couple months and I might have some turbo lag. I will have my foot all the way on gas pedal around 2.5 RPMS and it seem to be laggy until turbo kicked in around 3000 RPMS and then it would go. I wonder if the vacuum leak might be the same problem?

  12. #11
    Registered User heinskits Velvet's Avatar
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    I had an 07 WRX, watch the axle boot under the turbo, I noticed smoke coming out from the edges of my hood one day, the boot had split and it was slinging axle grease onto the exhaust/engine, this happened at about 70,000 miles, other than that the car was great....enjoy!

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