This is a discussion on Chronicles of a 2011 WRX within the New Member Hangout forums, part of the Community - Meet other Enthusiasts category; Originally Posted by Miggs It's been a couple weeks and the Turbosmart bpv is holding boost nicely. Highest psi so ...
I've got a Torque Solutions pitch stop I still need to install as well.
It's a super easy install...you will like it. It mostly helps shifting during spirited driving
Last edited by Miggs; 08-19-2013 at 11:34 AM.
Added oem footwell illumination kit. Picked it up at the local dealership for $45. Install was pretty simple, although I chose to remove everything from the head unit down to ensure a clean, problem free install. If anyone has any questions about DIY install lemme know and I will post pics and tips.
I'm a little jealous. Wish I could afford all those mods a month into owning my car!
Looks good, dude!
This should probably be moved to the Show-Off & Photography forum.
2012 WRX Premium - Lightning Red Sedan
Went to Friday night drags at PMP with new BPV and pitch mount. Very happy...dropped to a 13.1 @108. For those of you wondering about elevation impact on times...I ran that 13.1 against a stage 2 2012 Rouche 5.0. He ran a 13.5@ 106.
Bday/Xmas gift from the wife, really like this unit because it has a negative tilt setting (Kenwood DNX890HD). This is necessary imo do to higher unit location in the WRX. It creates a perpendicular angle which is conducive to eliminating glare. Also got a set of Focal speakers which blow the stockers away.
Last edited by Miggs; 01-05-2014 at 12:50 PM.
SO the install wasn't terrible, but it is very time consuming. There is a reason why the kit is only $55 but to have a third party like lightwerkz install it is considerably more. I have never done any kind of light addition or modification besides replacing bulbs before so it was a bit of a learning process. I have also never wired or soldered before. After searching the web extensively, I found a few links that helped, but it was mostly an unknown going in, so I was pretty nervous about messing something up. I am pretty OCD about setting things up in advance and having everything I foresee needing within reach prior to starting a project. Here's what I grabbed:
-Pliers, in several varieties. Needle nose, angled needle nose, varying sizes of traditional, etc
-screwdriver...lots of em
-gloves (for protecting lens/bulbs more than hands)
-ultra thin wire
-1/4" socket set
-soldering gun+ solder
The first step is to open the hood and begin removing the bumper. I chose to park on a set of car ramps for a more accessible work height (and I was glad I did) as you can see in the pic. Here's the link for the video I watched a quick reference. Honestly you can figure it out, its not hard, but watching the video first can prevent unwanted surprises.
Remove Front Bumper Subaru WRX - YouTube
I almost missed this clip for some reason, thought I would post a clear pic:
These smaller clips are super easy to remove, but a PITA to put back in.
Next remove the headlights. You dont need a video for this, its very straight-forward. There is a clip up top and four 10mm bolts holding the assembly on. Then remove the harness clip and a small plastic retainer piece. Use your hands for this, as its very fragile. Once I had the assembly removed, I watched this video on baking the headlights for separation and the necessary prep for this procedure.
How to bake 2008-12 Subaru WRX STI headlight - YouTube
The video makes this process look much easier than it really is. The assembly will not be hot enough to burn your hands (it didn't burn mine, although mine are pretty calloused and used to working on cars). When prying the assembly apart, be cognizant that the heat makes plastic malleable...which means you can scar it pretty easily. I inserted the screwdriver laterally instead of perpendicularly to prevent this from happening. I used a second flat tip to cut the adhesive as it stretched apart. Some tips:
-TAKE YOUR TIME. I reheated mine 3-4 times after the adhesive started cooling. The adhesive is stronger than the plastic when not warm.
-Be careful not to scar or stab the inside components with whatever you are using to pry with
-Having a second pair of hands is very helpful. I pried while my wife cut the adhesive with a small flat tip
After separating the assembly, I began mounting. I used TRS's advice and DIY video, and used wire opposed to adhesive, and I am glad I did. Here's that link:
TRS Tips: How to Install Angel Eyes or Halos (xbALed, XB LED, SMD, CCFL) - YouTube
Again, the video makes it look easier. This time it is mostly because you will be working with a much larger assembly and harder drilling angles. I used the thumb-tack method for starting the holes, and it worked nicely. I drilled the holes for the wiring on the BOTTOM of the bezel so that they couldn't be seen once the project was complete, as these will be the largest holes. I also removed the individual wires from the clip so that the hole would be smaller, and re-inserted them after running them through.
Here's a pic illustrating exactly what I did.
Here is the front. You can barely see the wire, even without the lens cover!
I chose to wire my angel eyes into the parking lights, so I could have them off during the day if I wanted. The research I did steered me away from wiring them as day running lights (drl's), as they won't last as long, and you wouldn't be able to turn them off without nudging the parking brake up a bit. I am sure there is a better way to do this, but here's how I did it... I exposed a small section wire from the 12v supply and ground to the parking light (also the blinker light). The hot is the green wire, not the red. The ground is obviously black. If you wire it to the red it will blink with the turn signal (and stay off when no signal is engaged). I then cut the ends off of the light kit, stripped half an inch, and soldered them onto the parking light wires. Sorry I forgot to take pics of this process! But here is a pic that hopefully is helpful. If anyone has any questions, I can remove a headlight and post more pics; its pretty straightforward though. Make sure you cover everything with heat shrink/electrical tape!
I drilled a small hole in the back of the headlamp cover for the wiring from this kit, then sealed it up with silicone. Make sure all holes are sealed up or you will get contaminants inside the assembly over time.
That's pretty much it! Put everything back together, rinse and repeat.
Last edited by Miggs; 01-05-2014 at 12:57 PM.
Here's an old Dyno sheet that never got posted from August 13. Sry for poor quality. I wanted a 'safe' tune so we only pushed it to 19 psi. Also this is at about 5,000 ft elevation