PLEASE HELP -- Boosting Issues with 2013 WRX
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This is a discussion on PLEASE HELP -- Boosting Issues with 2013 WRX within the New Member Hangout forums, part of the Community - Meet other Enthusiasts category; Hey all, So I’m having some issues with my 2013 5dr wrx and I was wondering if I could get ...

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    PLEASE HELP -- Boosting Issues with 2013 WRX

    Hey all,
    So I’m having some issues with my 2013 5dr wrx and I was wondering if I could get some input. First of all, my car is bone stock with about 6k miles on it. About a week or so ago, I get this noise that sounds like a BOV. My car wasn’t boosting properly or to its full capacity and every time I stepped off the gas I got the classic Fast & Furious whoooosh. Power loss was noticeable as well. I figured it was a boost leak and stopped by my buddies shop who smoke tested the car and said he thought there was a boost like somewhere underneath the intake mani. Since it was under warranty I brought it back to Subaru and they said “they have seen this with two other 2013 Subie’s this year” and “that is was an intercooler pipe issue”.

    So I’m there for two hours and they tell me they fix it. I leave, do two 2nd gear pulls and turn around to go back—the issue is not completely resolved. They fixed the BOV noise (which they told me was related to the intake—I don’t fully believe them here), and some of the power is back but not all. Now it boosts to about 14-15 psi and then tapers when it used to boost to 16-17 psi and hold strong throughout the gear.

    So I brought it back and drove it with their mechanic so I could explain my issue. So if I shift into 2nd or 3rd around 2500 rpms and then step on it so its WOT I get a hiccup and boost issue somewhere around 5k rpms. He told me he saw and felt what I was talking about. I left the car there for the weekend because I had to go out of state and they called me back yesterday. They called me yesterday and are trying to tell me it’s my traction control which I don’t buy at all. I’m headed down there in a few hours to pick up my car.

    My questions: Has anyone with a 2013 had a similar issue? What is everyone’s input, what do you think it could be or where should I go from here? Thanks in advance for everyone’s help.

    Nick

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    and the Funky Bunch Calvinball's Avatar
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    The first issue sounds like the infamous TB to IC hose. 3rd gen cars are notorious for developing leaks at that hose.

    What are you using to gauge the whole "the power isn't there anymore" idea? What are you using to measure boost? 14-15 psi is actually about right for a stock '13 (I think the target is 14.2 or so?), and it is supposed to taper as you get higher in the rpms. A stock '13 should definitely not hold full boost to redline. Are you are comparing your boost numbers, however you're measuring them, to the numbers you were getting while you had the leak?

    The weird "hiccup" as you call it is also most likely normal. A lot of people have noticed a slight hesitation in the power delivery on the stock tune.

    Of course, you are under warranty, so certainly have anything you think is weird checked out, but the things you are describing as problems right now actual sound normal for a stock '13, except the "power isn't there" issue. That, though, if you are just going off the ol' butt dyno, isn't a good measure.
    - Will
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    So I got to the dealer a little late tonight and the foreman was already gone. I'm going to pick it up from them tomorrow when he's there and I can go for a ride with him.

    If the 3rd gen cars are so prone to leaking at the TB to IC hose are there any aftermarket solutions that are worth looking into?

    I'm using an SPT Boost gauge and I also have an SPT short shifter so I guess my car isn't "bone stock". Both were installed by the dealer. I was saying 14-15 to PSI was low because prior to this issue I would hit 16-18 psi with a very slight taper at redline. If 14.2 is the target than I gues 14-15 isn't too bad but it's tapering down to about 11-12 by redline. I honestly only did two pulls before I brought it back to the dealer so my numbers may be slightly skewed.

    The "hiccup" concerns me because it only surfaced after this issue began and the dealer fixed the BOV noise. To me it didnt feel like a hesitation in the power delivery but more like a stutter as the rpm's climbed at WOT.

    I totally agree that the butt dyno isn't a good measuring tool unfortunately it's the only way I can gauge the power at the moment. More than anything the hiccup concerned me because I had never had that issue prior to the dealer fixing the noise. The other thing that concerns me is that they told me the intake box was loose and that's what was creating the noise. My buddy and I put it back together after smoke testing it and I know it was put back together correct. Also, before I brought it by my buddy's shop I checked the intake system and boost lines to the best of my ability and I didn't notice anything. I just feel like that couldn't have been the issue but the dealer claims it was.

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    Hiccup was there stock and on stage one tune was better. Now that I'm on stage 2, it's gone. The button under dash to disengage traction control is usually turn off on mine if I plan on driving harder, the traction light on cluster would light up between first two gear changes sometimes and cause engine to limit power output to wheels due to traction loss reading from system. I'm waiting to get gauges installed before going to get full pro-tune and get actual numbers.
    Time for AWD fun! CBS 2013 WRX Sedan - SoCal - OC

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    You should not be hitting 16-18 psi on the stock tune. 14-15 is target boost. And it does taper down after redline. Maybe the gauge is defective which would still insinuate there is a problem. The hiccup is pretty normal. My 11 was anything but smooth on the stock tune. Good luck man

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    and the Funky Bunch Calvinball's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Power2All4 View Post
    If the 3rd gen cars are so prone to leaking at the TB to IC hose are there any aftermarket solutions that are worth looking into?

    I'm using an SPT Boost gauge and I also have an SPT short shifter so I guess my car isn't "bone stock". Both were installed by the dealer. I was saying 14-15 to PSI was low because prior to this issue I would hit 16-18 psi with a very slight taper at redline. If 14.2 is the target than I gues 14-15 isn't too bad but it's tapering down to about 11-12 by redline. I honestly only did two pulls before I brought it back to the dealer so my numbers may be slightly skewed.

    The "hiccup" concerns me because it only surfaced after this issue began and the dealer fixed the BOV noise. To me it didnt feel like a hesitation in the power delivery but more like a stutter as the rpm's climbed at WOT.
    Yeah, when I was on the stock tune I would've probably described it as a "stutter" too, right around the same rpms. I honestly didn't notice it til I had the car for a while either. Perception is a fickle thing.

    14-15 then tapering down to 11-12 is normal.

    As far as that hose goes, and I have no way to substantiate this, but I believe it has become such a well known issue that dealerships have a way to "fix" it that is better than how it is stock when a car is brought in for this. I have no inside info nor data to confirm this, other than the fact that I developed the leak on the stock tune and haven't had it pop back off now that I've been at stage 1 boost levels for a while now. From what I understand, there was a funky coupler that was the issue. I wouldn't find it hard to believe that Subaru has quietly issued orders for how to fix it into a better state without releasing a TSB or recall. Otherwise, I have read about people popping the IC off, and rigging those connections themselves in a more secure manner. I think people were actually just taking out the coupler and tightening the hose directly.
    - Will
    First Mods: What to do and what not to do
    Current Car: 2014 Golf TDI
    Previous Cars:2012 WRB WRX Hatch, 2004 RSX-S, 1998 Grand Prix GTP
    "Isn't it amazing how smart you feel when you just aren't being stupid?"

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    Ok guys,thanks for all the help. Apparently my issues were a lot more normal than I assumed. When I drive it today I'm going to pay attention to see if the traction control light goes on when it stutters.

    Evidently I need to start modding! Thanks again,

    Nick

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